Suspension and frame work, cracked LCA, advice welcome

-
DLJ

DLJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
122
Reaction score
25
Location
Brazil
Hi people,

This might be a long thread but once guys here are really good at helping members I decided to give it a try...

Finally decided to give my 76 Dart some attention after sitting in the garage for too long.
I just want to fix some old issues and make it a reliable weekend drive for short trips and riding around, all stock and spending just what is really necessary.

This Dart (4 door 318TF904) was my 1st car, all stock from factory, bought it when I was 18 and the car was 5.5 years old, all I could afford at that time. Not too long to find out the POs treated it like ****, still a great running V8, and I have a personal connection with it.

Drove it only about 15,000 mi then, till I got a more fuel efficient vehicle for DD.
Now, decided to do whatever it needs, give it a new life and fix the major issues, which are mostly suspension and framework (besides some little hidden rust and lousy paintjob).

I plan on posting some good amount of pics of my work progress and would really appreciate comments (good or bad) from experts, as well as suggestions on what might be wrong.

So far I have disassembled all under the car and found out some issues.

Cracked LCA -

The Left LCA has a 3/4" long crack, pictures attached.

This A body was assembled in Brazil where I currently live and some parts were pressed here, but it seems that the issues are pretty much the same.

The cracked LCA must have been added to the car after a crash involving mostly the left front suspension/frame before I got it, I suspect.
The LCA crack has signs of a previous superficial welding and grinding with little penetration IMO.

These parts are not available to buy here except if I buy from the US an pay about 300% on top of that for freight and duties so I decided to fix it myself.
I plan on arch weld it after grinding a kind of V shape channel on top of the crack in order to replace the metal between both pieces.

Any suggestions as far as fixing it? I do not have MIG, plan on using arch weld, 7018 electrode or maybe 6013?

Any previous experiences of successful LCA welding? I also plan on welding some reinforcement straps on the bottom.

The K member looks good as far as cracking (so far).

Another issue is about the frame... after some measuring I suspect the left front end is off by 1/2" (higher), probably from hitting something with the left front wheel. Will post pics and more info later.

Thanks for your input.

20181215_114027.jpg


20181215_114908.jpg


20181215_114919.jpg


20181215_113940.jpg


20181215_135044.jpg


20181215_135545.jpg


20181215_115441.jpg
 
That's fixable with the equipment you have. Get it as clean as possible before you start.
 
That grille is awesome. How hard it is to find those down there?
 
It is unusual....THe sway bar tabs are out to the edges of those LCAs like the early A body UCAs of American heritage.
I'd fix what you have. Welded metal can be even stronger than the original steel if the weld is done properly over clean steel.
 
I be damned if I would try to fix that. Really difficult to determine where the end of the crack is. If you repair it without finding the end, it can keep cracking. Not the kind of thing you want to fail. JMHO.
 
jos51700 said:
That grille is awesome. How hard it is to find those down there?
Click to expand...
Pretty hard once it was made only from 76 to 78 for the fancier models but still possible, just expensive...
 
Kern Dog said:
It is unusual....THe sway bar tabs are out to the edges of those LCAs like the early A body UCAs of American heritage.
I'd fix what you have. Welded metal can be even stronger than the original steel if the weld is done properly over clean steel.
Click to expand...
Yes that is the only LCA that was used in the Brazilian Darts from 1969 till 1981.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I be damned if I would try to fix that. Really difficult to determine where the end of the crack is. If you repair it without finding the end, it can keep cracking. Not the kind of thing you want to fail. JMHO.
Click to expand...
Well, I have no option besides finding the end of that crack and push it a bit beyond... what makes me think... I love your avatar pic...
 
DLJ said:
Well, I have no option besides finding the end of that crack and push it a bit beyond... what makes me think... I love your avatar pic...
Click to expand...

If you can determine if that arm is the same as US, I work with several Brazilians that come back to Brazil frequently. Could be much easier to locate in USA and carry on a flight and ship to you from within the country than to ship from outside the country
 
jos51700 said:
If you can determine if that arm is the same as US, I work with several Brazilians that come back to Brazil frequently. Could be much easier to locate in USA and carry on a flight and ship to you from within the country than to ship from outside the country[/QI am on a tight budget and have many other parts I need to buy new from local imports, these days the best way would be if someone from the forum had one and sold it to me sending as a gift, might not have duties...
Click to expand...
jos51700 said:
If you can determine if that arm is the same as US, I work with several Brazilians that come back to Brazil frequently. Could be much easier to locate in USA and carry on a flight and ship to you from within the country than to ship from outside the country
Click to expand...

Hi, I am on a tight budget and have other many parts I will have to buy new from local imports, but this one, I am able to fix, just asking what experts think of welding these LCAs. These days the best option would be buying parts from someone in the forum who could ship person to person as gift, might not have to pay duties, anyway, thank you much for offering!
 
Another issue would be the ball joint and tie rod end boots, they are all shot but the ball joints are pretty tight in like new condition as much as feel.
All of them are sealed and do not allow greasing. I want to save them and replace just the boots.
Found here at a local import a set of PU boots, supposed to be Energy Suspension brand... that would fit.

My question would be if anyone knows if these PU boots seal good, keeping dirt and water from coming in contact with the ball joint at all times when the car runs.

I have an old rubber booth I bought long ago that shows in the pic, if you turn the ball pin it will lift on one side and that would not be acceptable as far as sealing... Are the PU boots sealing any better at all times? The stock ones have a metal ring that will keep it in place.
Added a few pics...

View attachment 1715262829

20181216_173900.jpg


s-l400.jpg


20181216_190433.jpg


20181216_190522.jpg
 
Last edited:
DLJ said:
Another issue would be the ball joint and tie rod end boots, they are all shot but the ball joints are pretty tight in like new condition as much as feel.
All of them are sealed and do not allow greasing. I want to save them and replace just the boots.
Found here at a local import a set of PU boots, supposed to be Energy Suspension brand... that would fit.

My question would be if anyone knows if these PU boots seal good, keeping dirt and water from coming in contact with the ball joint at all times when the car runs.

I have an old rubber booth I bought long ago that shows in the pic, if you turn the ball pin it will lift on one side and that would not be acceptable as far as sealing... Are the PU boots sealing any better at all times? The stock ones have a metal ring that will keep it in place.
Added a few pics...

View attachment 1715262829

View attachment 1715262831

View attachment 1715262832

View attachment 1715262833

View attachment 1715262834
Click to expand...
Remember, when part is installed boot is pressed down over socket. In my opinion you are overthinking it. Likely the ones you have will work.
 
I know parts are expensive in Brazil but what is your life worth ? that crack is the only thing between you and death . Ball joints and rod ends are a wearable part . Made to be replaced , not rebuilt .
 
383Scampman said:
I know parts are expensive in Brazil but what is your life worth ? that crack is the only thing between you and death . Ball joints and rod ends are a wearable part . Made to be replaced , not rebuilt .
Click to expand...
Good point, always have that in mind, thanks!
 
Tooljunkie said:
Remember, when part is installed boot is pressed down over socket. In my opinion you are overthinking it. Likely the ones you have will work.
Click to expand...
I thought of that but still the rubber ones I got seem kind of large, I will get a set of the Energy PU boots for all 4 tie rods and 4 ball joints and give it a try, they cost here US$ 70.00 for the set. I will drive this car in short trips and will keep an eye for all these issues so I think it will be ok. Cheers.
 
I know very little about stick welding, so that is for somebody else to answer. As for fixing that arm, first determine if it is straight. If it's bent at all you can't fix that. Find where you think the end of the crack is and drill a small hole at the spot, then grind a V into the rest of the crack and weld away.
 
Stick welding in this case wont be easy.6013 3/32 will likely do,welding in harder alloys and not knowing composition could cause additional cracking.
I noticed @Jim Lusk were you using flux core wire in the video?
Is there a particular reason? Just curious.
 
Jim Lusk said:
I know very little about stick welding, so that is for somebody else to answer. As for fixing that arm, first determine if it is straight. If it's bent at all you can't fix that. Find where you think the end of the crack is and drill a small hole at the spot, then grind a V into the rest of the crack and weld away.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jim for your input, I think the previous welding must have been a stick weld and was done just on the surface, and after 15,000 mi have not cracked, so I will try to dril a holeas you said at the end of the crack and grind a v shape chennel, then arch weld with good penetration. Stick welding using 6013 is famous for being more efficient than mig welding on metal structures subject to flexing like roofing, etc..., but that is mostly on low carbon steel.
The thing is, I want to grind the extras to make it look like new and there is not much room there for a disk.
Cheers.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Stick welding in this case wont be easy.6013 3/32 will likely do,welding in harder alloys and not knowing composition could cause additional cracking.
I noticed @Jim Lusk were you using flux core wire in the video?
Is there a particular reason? Just curious.
Click to expand...

I do not think i can find an electrode that thin, the smallest I can get is a 2.0 mm and I think it will be just fine once that plate is pretty thick.
Thanks !
 
Tooljunkie said:
Stick welding in this case wont be easy.6013 3/32 will likely do,welding in harder alloys and not knowing composition could cause additional cracking.
I noticed @Jim Lusk were you using flux core wire in the video?
Is there a particular reason? Just curious.
Click to expand...

Yes, I was using flux core as that is all I had at that time. I have since added gas, but I'm still learning how to use it.
 
Jim Lusk said:
Yes, I was using flux core as that is all I had at that time. I have since added gas, but I'm still learning how to use it.
Click to expand...
You are aware flux core and mig use opposite polarity?
Sorry about wandering off topic...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top