Suspension and steering on 74 duster

-

MoparBrown812

Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2025
Messages
13
Reaction score
13
Location
seymour indiana
I have a 1974 Plymouth duster. I’m looking for the best options on the front suspension. I’ve ordered a bunch of moog components for the front end. I’m considering getting tubular upper control arms. The steering is super lose so I’m wanting to fix that and make it handle better. Let me know what you guys think is the best way. Thanks

IMG_4611.jpeg


IMG_4612.jpeg


IMG_4602.jpeg
 
Ditch the Moog unless you are simply going for a stock rebuild. Firm Feel in Vancouver, WA is who I would suggest if you want upgraded aftermarket suspension. QA1 if you are going for a drag setup.
 
Moog lower control arm bushings are junk, a waste of time and money. Inner sleeves are too big for the pivot pins.
Can only assume the rest of thier stuff is the same quality.!
 
An area commonly missed that can cause sloppy steering is the slip joint a the steering box coupler. The shoes and cover can wear and rebuild kits, seals and lock springs are available.

Just know that this part serves as both a slip joint and universal joint. So just replacing it with an off the shelf universal joint removes the sliding feature.

Some tubular uppers (QA1 comes to mind, Its what I have) need a gusset clearance to get full movement of the arm downward.

So what is your expectation and intended use for a suspension rebuild? Street only, Drag and street, corner carver street, autocross, full on road course?
 
I’ve ordered a bunch of moog components

well that was the first mistake..

your best bet is to contact @BergmanAutoCraft and talk with pete. he can guide ya in the right direction. the two of you can figure out how far you want to take things.. Home - Bergman Auto Craft - Home of Quality Muscle Car Parts

my suggestions are,.

rebuild what is worn
adjustable upper arms.
adjustable strut rods
1.08 or so torsion bars
borgenson steering box kit (makes a huge difference)
sway bar
a good aggressive alignment
good shocks (bilstien non adjustable at the minium)
don't forget the rear springs too. thats part of the package....

thats how my car is set up and it drive much like a modern car. feels great, drives great.
 

An area commonly missed that can cause sloppy steering is the slip joint a the steering box coupler. The shoes and cover can wear and rebuild kits, seals and lock springs are available.

Just know that this part serves as both a slip joint and universal joint. So just replacing it with an off the shelf universal joint removes the sliding feature.

Some tubular uppers (QA1 comes to mind, Its what I have) need a gusset clearance to get full movement of the arm downward.

So what is your expectation and intended use for a suspension rebuild? Street only, Drag and street, corner carver street, autocross, full on road course?
Street only. Just to take out on the weekend.
 
well that was the first mistake..

your best bet is to contact @BergmanAutoCraft and talk with pete. he can guide ya in the right direction. the two of you can figure out how far you want to take things.. Home - Bergman Auto Craft - Home of Quality Muscle Car Parts

my suggestions are,.

rebuild what is worn
adjustable upper arms.
adjustable strut rods
1.08 or so torsion bars
borgenson steering box kit
sway bar
a good aggressive alignment
good shocks (bilstien non adjustable at the minium)
don't forget the rear springs too. thats part of the package....

thats how my car is set up and it drive much like a modern car. feels great, drives great.
Ok thanks. I’ll return the moog parts lol.
 
How serious on the handling do you want to get? Looks sorta setup for drags now?

Basic significant upgrade that you will certainly feel without taking a 2nd mortgage on your house.
  • 1" torsion bars
  • 1 1/8 hellwig front sway bar
  • hellwig adjustable rear sway bar
  • Bilstein RCD shocks
  • moog offset UCA bushing installed for more postive caster 2-4 deg pos -pn 7103
  • borgansen steering box
  • poly strut bushings
You can run rubber LCA bushings. Inspect the Moog parts heavily before installing them.
 
Last edited:
How serious on the handling do you want to get? Looks sorta setup for drags now?

Basic significant upgrade that you will certainly feel
  • 1" torsion bars
  • 1 1/8 hellwig front sway bar
  • hellwig adjustable rear sway bar
  • Bilstein RCD shocks
  • moog offset UCA bushing installed for more postive caster 2-4 deg pos -pn 7103
  • borgansen steering box
  • poly strut bushings
You can run rubber LCA bushings. Inspect the Moog parts heavily before installing them.
Ok thanks.
 
You know, you don't have to get carried away. There are kits with all the suspension pieces.
 
How serious on the handling do you want to get? Looks sorta setup for drags now?

Basic significant upgrade that you will certainly feel without taking a 2nd mortgage on your house.
  • 1" torsion bars
  • 1 1/8 hellwig front sway bar
  • hellwig adjustable rear sway bar
  • Bilstein RCD shocks
  • moog offset UCA bushing installed for more postive caster 2-4 deg pos -pn 7103
  • borgansen steering box
  • poly strut bushings
You can run rubber LCA bushings. Inspect the Moog parts heavily before installing them.
Okay thanks for the advice. I appreciate it. It’s just a street car. Runs great. Just wanting it to handle better
 
Okay thanks for the advice. I appreciate it. It’s just a street car. Runs great. Just wanting it to handle better

Step One
  • 1 1/8 hellwig front sway bar
  • hellwig adjustable rear sway bar
  • Bilstein RCD shocks
  • moog offset UCA bushing installed for more postive caster 2-4 deg pos -pn 7103
  • poly strut bushings
If want more
  • 1" torsion bars
  • borgansen steering box
 
Moog used to be the bomb, now they are junk. Yet another example of an American company shipping its production to Asia. You said the steering is loose? Do you have a lot of slop and play in the steering wheel? That could be caused by a worn out PS steering box, if you have PS.
 
You know, you don't have to get carried away. There are kits with all the suspension pieces.
The man is right. The kit from Kanter/PST has a lot of nice parts and its a good deal versus buying separate. The only things I didn't use from the kit were the LCA bushings (i got ProForged), strut rod bushings (used 2-piece Moog design) and offset UCA bushings (used Moog offset).
 
The man is right. The kit from Kanter/PST has a lot of nice parts and its a good deal versus buying separate. The only things I didn't use from the kit were the LCA bushings (i got ProForged), strut rod bushings (used 2-piece Moog design) and offset UCA bushings (used Moog offset).
Curious about the Moog offset bushings. Did they work out for you? Get more positive caster? Thanks!
 

I think buying a kit, is a good idea, but to buy a kit and not use $100 worth of included parts, then spending another $150 on "better" parts to replace them is not. I've always found it cheaper to shop around for individual parts. I always use the Moog offset UCA bushings and recommend the BAC lower control arm bushing kit. Definitely check the steering gear to column connection and rebuild that if needed.
Bigger torsion bars, front/rear sway bars, better shocks and maybe adjustable strut rods are definitely worth the extra money if you have it.
 
Last edited:
I have a 1974 Plymouth duster. I’m looking for the best options on the front suspension. I’ve ordered a bunch of moog components for the front end. I’m considering getting tubular upper control arms. The steering is super lose so I’m wanting to fix that and make it handle better. Let me know what you guys think is the best way. Thanks

View attachment 1716421859

View attachment 1716421861

View attachment 1716421862
Loose components or it just steers easily. Mopar power steering is loosey goosey. Like it is over powered by the pump.
 
good lookin ride!!

my 74 (converted to a 71-ish).

The HDK chromoly tubular arms allows for 3 to 6 degrees positive caster while maintaining camber without putting the UCAs in a bind. Same design used on the HDK coil over / rack conversion for 20 years............$399 plus shipping includes adjustable UCAs. All three spindle applications / versions available

Messenger_creation_3AE5591C-446B-41DB-8C89-01AE18F1EA1C.jpeg


20210127_131152.jpg
 
good lookin ride!!

my 74 (converted to a 71-ish).

The HDK chromoly tubular arms allows for 3 to 6 degrees positive caster while maintaining camber without putting the UCAs in a bind. Same design used on the HDK coil over / rack conversion for 20 years............$399 plus shipping includes adjustable UCAs. All three spindle applications / versions available

View attachment 1716431389

View attachment 1716431391
Where did you get them from ? I’m having trouble finding those control arms
 
-
Back
Top Bottom