Suspension Refresh

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mrichard

mrichard

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I have a 72 Dart, basic model, four door. I'd like to replace control arms, bushings, etc., on the front suspension. Anyone have suggestions on where to get these parts reasonably and tips on doing this job?

I'm not looking to modify unless it dramatically improves safety or driveability - just refresh it to stock condition.

Any suggestions here would be appreciated.

Mark

Dart.jpg
 
A 72 model would probably need every suspension component replaced.
Suspension work is labor intense any way you approach it.
If you reseach the other threads on this topic you should find everything you need to know including pros and cons of aftermarket rebuild kits, what tools you'll need, etc..
Have fun
 
I agree with Redfish, if you need a rebuild, don't piece meal it. It will just accelerate wear on any other bushings. One item that can help a lot is a front ant-roll bar, and there are kits for cars not equipped with one from the factory.

Grant
 
Lots of penetrating lube,air tools and patience. I hope have access to a hoist.If you dont you may want to consider pulling the k frame,engine and all. If your looking at a major susp rebuilt it will save your back big time if you dont have to lay under the car all friggin day.With the k frame out you can do the susp rebuild mostly on your bench.
 
Have the undercarriage steam cleaned if you can. Have them pull the wheels and let er rip. Then go with the afore mentioned penetrating oil. A clean undercarriage is a treat compared to 30 years of grime..
 
If you go with PST from the banner on the right side of this page it helps FABO out. Not sure if they give discounts though.
They will have what you need.
 
MMM new parts....:toothy10: Yup that kit should do it. Forgot to mention the removal of grime/grease etc.That sure makes it a whole lot more pleasant to work on,lol!!

Even a pressure washer and some degreaser will work.
 
What tools would be needed? I tried searching for that but no luck. Looks like PST is recommended. I basically would be doing this in the burbs in my garage using jack stands and muscle. I have a neighbor with a compressor, so maybe I could use that, but most likely I'm doing all this manually.

Also, am I having to disconnect the brakes, etc, for this job? So needing to bleed them, etc., when done, or can the drums stay intact?

Thanks - this would be the biggest job I've done on a classic car so the help is MOST appreciated.
 
Here are a few things I can think of off the top of my head. Its been a few years since I did mine.

ball joint splitter/pickle fork
3/4, 7/8, 15/16, 1" off set box wrenches work best
BFH hammer
3/4" socket to unload the torsion bars

You will need to fabricate a tool to press the bushings into the upper control arms. I used a 3/4" piece if threaded rod with nuts and washers, about 6 " long.

I would address the brakes at the same time if the aren't pretty new. At least bleed them. You could hang the drum maybe but it will just be in your way.

Hope this helps some.
 
I agree homcloned. But I got tired of pounding my thumbs so I went with a pickle fork set made by lisle.It can be used either with a regular hammer or an air hammer.Cool tools..

My BFH is a four pound body hammer with a flat face and a long handle.The back side of the head is a wedge that can ( and has!) split rock.
 
needsaresto said:
I agree homcloned. But I got tired of pounding my thumbs so I went with a pickle fork set made by lisle.It can be used either with a regular hammer or an air hammer.Cool tools..

My BFH is a four pound body hammer with a flat face and a long handle.The back side of the head is a wedge that can ( and has!) split rock.
Click to expand...

I know exactly what you mean. OUCH! I have hit my thumb/nuckle many times. I need to get a splitter for my air tool.
I will check into that kit, having the right tools if half the job.
 
My kit has seen a ton of BFH and air hammer time.I've had it better than 6 years and holding up well.And I am not gentle..
 
needsaresto said:
I agree homcloned. But I got tired of pounding my thumbs so I went with a pickle fork set made by lisle.It can be used either with a regular hammer or an air hammer.Cool tools..

My BFH is a four pound body hammer with a flat face and a long handle.The back side of the head is a wedge that can ( and has!) split rock.
Click to expand...

Where did you find the BFH? I got a few but none as the one you described :D I need that hammer!!!:read2::read2::cheers::cheers:
 
I've been slowly collecting just Moog front end rebuilt parts.I get some here and at the local jobber store.
 
Ok. So I think I'm going to get the kit and the anti-roll bar. The kit includes the following:
* 2 Upper Ball Joints
* 2 Lower Ball Joints
* 2 Strut Rod Bushings
* 2 Outer Tie Rod Ends
* 2 Stabilizer Links (Bolt and sleeve type links only)
* 2 Inner Tie Rod Ends
* 1 Idler Arm
* 4 Upper Inner Control Arm Bushings
* 2 Lower Inner Control Arm Bushings
* 2 Sway Bar Bushings (for most models)
* Control Arm Bumpers (for most models)
* 2 Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves
* 4 Upper Cam and Bolt kits

Anything else I should be looking for here beyond this? Anything I'm missing? Thanks!
 
mrichard said:
Ok. So I think I'm going to get the kit and the anti-roll bar. The kit includes the following:
* 2 Upper Ball Joints
* 2 Lower Ball Joints
* 2 Strut Rod Bushings
* 2 Outer Tie Rod Ends
* 2 Stabilizer Links (Bolt and sleeve type links only)
* 2 Inner Tie Rod Ends
* 1 Idler Arm
* 4 Upper Inner Control Arm Bushings
* 2 Lower Inner Control Arm Bushings
* 2 Sway Bar Bushings (for most models)
* Control Arm Bumpers (for most models)
* 2 Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves
* 4 Upper Cam and Bolt kits

Anything else I should be looking for here beyond this? Anything I'm missing? Thanks!
Click to expand...


I think one thing you may want to consider. Remove all the parts yourself and clean them. Then, if there are any special tools needed to remove "ball joints, lower control arm bushings", etc instead of buying a special tool, take them an auto shop and have the new parts installed onto the lower, upper controll arms. It will not cost you an arm and a leg. Just somthing to consider since I know the lower control arm bushing are a *****!
 
HemiMark said:
I think one thing you may want to consider. Remove all the parts yourself and clean them. Then, if there are any special tools needed to remove "ball joints, lower control arm bushings", etc instead of buying a special tool, take them an auto shop and have the new parts installed onto the lower, upper controll arms. It will not cost you an arm and a leg. Just somthing to consider since I know the lower control arm bushing are a *****!
Click to expand...

Lol,yes lca bushings are not easy. You will need a fairly stout press to get them out. Heres the trick I like the best.Remove the lca,then soak the bushing end in diesel for a month or 2. They should press right out using sockets and your bench vise.Or you could use the afore mentioned washer and bolt method.
 
I've been doing a special recently and I went with the PST
PST doesn't have lca bushings, at least not when I bought them. I got Moogs. I also bought new torsion bar boots too.
I agree with taking the k member out. It was easier to see and work, and didn't cost anything. I'd also suggest painting and do everything all together. It looks good, and why not spend the little bit extra to perfect the second most life saving item on your vehicle.
Do the brakes too, as they are the first.
 
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