Switching to Evans

[70SwingerGuy]

I know that Evans coolant shouldnt be mixed with water, so is there an efficient way of eliminating the water left in the motor after draining the rad and heater core with the engine still in the car?
Thanks FABO

 

[CFD244]

There are drain plugs on both sides of the engine for draining the block.

 

[70SwingerGuy]

There are drain plugs on both sides of the engine for draining the block.

Thanks Troy

 

[BrianT]

First I drained the block by opening the plugs on the block. When it was drained I blew air through the intake and heater hose outlets. And then I slowly poured a gallon of Isopropyl alcohol through the engine. After letting it sit for a few days, I hooked everything back up and filled it with Evans.

After I did all that I determined that it was a complete waste of time and money. My engine didn't run any cooler and it still built up pressure in the system. All the people at Evans would say is that I must have not gotten all of the water out of the system. I hope you have better luck than I did.

 

[413]

Yes use the block drain plugs. It would seem a good idea to fill it with water and rinse it out again after antifreeze drained. But how do you get the entire inside of cooling system totally dry?

 

[70SwingerGuy]

First I drained the block by opening the plugs on the block. When it was drained I blew air through the intake and heater hose outlets. And then I slowly poured a gallon of Isopropyl alcohol through the engine. After letting it sit for a few days, I hooked everything back up and filled it with Evans.

I was wondering about that, getting all residual traces of water out of the block would be difficult I would think

After I did all that I determined that it was a complete waste of time and money. My engine didn't run any cooler and it still built up pressure in the system. All the people at Evans would say is that I must have not gotten all of the water out of the system. I hope you have better luck than I did.

Hmm, I may be rethinking my plan now.

Yes use the block drain plugs. It would seem a good idea to fill it with water and rinse it out again after antifreeze drained. But how do you get the entire inside of cooling system totally dry?

Exactly, thats my whole point of this, how do you get the entire system dry and free of water? Seems to me, this whole Evans thing might be best off left to a new build with a clean and dry block and cooling system.
I may just flush the system and put new deionized water and coolant in and leave it at that.

 

[TT5.9mag]

Ive used a shop vac connected to the rad hoses to dry em out.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

You have to get ALL the water based coolant out of the system.

That means you need to flush the entire system, including the heater core. If you don’t do that you are just pissing away money.

IIRC Evan’s has a chemical that you use when the engine has been run with water based coolant. Use it.

If the Evan’s coolant is building pressure there is residual coolant left in the system. Make sure you get it out.

I’d never go back to conventional coolant.

 

[70SwingerGuy]

You have to get ALL the water based coolant out of the system.

That means you need to flush the entire system, including the heater core. If you don’t do that you are just pissing away money.

IIRC Evan’s has a chemical that you use when the engine has been run with water based coolant. Use it.

If the Evan’s coolant is building pressure there is residual coolant left in the system. Make sure you get it out.

I’d never go back to conventional coolant.

Yup, I just looked and you are correct
EVANS PREP FLUID

 

[BrianT]

My car didn't use a heater core or have any heater hoses.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

My car didn't use a heater core or have any heater hoses.

I read your post and ignored it.

I did see you complain that Evans didn't lower your coolant temperature.

Did Evans tell you it would lower your coolant temperature?

 

[BrianT]

Well bless your heart. You're a real pistol aren't you?

I do see now that Evans has come up with another product that they'll sell you for $70 that'll PREP your system so that you can run their coolant.

EVANS PREP FLUID

Conversion fluid for an all engine flush Evans Prep Fluid is a waterless cooling system flush engineered specifically to purge the cooling system of water-based antifreeze after draining and before installing new waterless coolant. Prep Fluid should be used when block drains are unavailable or...

evanscoolant.com

 

[Mike69cuda]

From what I have read:
3% water won't affect performance.
Heater transfer is worse than standard water mix. Likely run hotter.
Less corrosion
Lower operating pressure

Whether this is better probably depends on what your goals are.

We used to call stuff like this elephant repellant - don’t see any elephants do you? Must be working…..

 

[Newbomb Turk]

From what I have read:
3% water won't affect performance.
Heater transfer is worse than standard water mix. Likely run hotter.
Less corrosion
Lower operating pressure

Whether this is better probably depends on what your goals are.

We used to call stuff like this elephant repellant - don’t see any elephants do you? Must be working…..

Did you actually CALL Evan’s and talk to them, or are you reading nonsense online?

I run it for several reasons. One of which it will not build pressure. If you used it and it was making pressure you had something else wrong.

And the fallacy that the coolant has to absorb heat like water is just that.

And this is why I just ignored your post the first time. Because you get all butthurt when you think you are correct but your not.

The prep stuff has been out as long as the coolant. That is the FACT. They didn’t just come out with it.

Again, this points to you not doing your research and bad mouthing a product.

 

[Mike69cuda]

Wow, sorry I blew up…..

 

[Bewy]

Evans removes heat just like water does, by transfer from one medium to another. The benefit of Evans is it will withstand higher temps & will not flash into steam like water does. Steam is a very poor heat conductor.

 

[Mattax]

Exactly, thats my whole point of this, how do you get the entire system dry and free of water?

Back when they had started and they only had one formulation they sold an inline drier as part of the installation package. Even starting from a fresh block, it was used and the system ran at atmospheric pressure system. I used Evans for about two years. The final straw was when I had to put a new radiator in at the track. The incident had nothing to do with Evan's product. Replacing that coolant on short notice was the final straw. But I was glad to be done with that experiment.

The drier is between the overflow tank and the T with the radiator.

The theory behind Evans is that their formulation of straight glycol will transfer heat from the cast iron through nucleate boiling without pressure. To some degree this happens in regular systems too. It's important to keep those small bubbles from coalescing and turning into steam pockets. In contrast the various water-glycol mixes use pressure to help control boiling. Ironicly, Chrysler and some others ran the cooling systems at atmospheric pressure, with a cap that would build pressure only when needed.

 

[Mike69cuda]

Would running straight antifreeze with no water accomplish the same thing?

 

[70SwingerGuy]

Would running straight antifreeze with no water accomplish the same thing?

I had been told years ago that running straight antifreeze would cause it to gel, dunno if thats true or not