Thermostat Gasket

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CRUZE 418

CRUZE 418

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
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Just wanted to say that after having a leaking thermostat housing gasket, tried three damn times. I finally got it done with the Real Gasket Tennessee, made of silicone. I had filed, and sanded both the housing and intake surfaces, to no avail. So I sent off for the silicone gasket, cleaned the surfaces, no sealer is used, insalled it and the torque range is 20-25 in lbs. Which is pretty light, no more leak, and it is reusable. Damn I like it when something actually does what it says. It was worth every penny and more.
 
Not sure, sorry. Just google it, they make other applications too. 67 dart273 mentioned it here not long ago, I had seen there stuff, but passed it by. Just google their name for silicone thermostat gasket, it should pop-up.
I just googled it, it popped up, Real Gaskets Tennessee, silicone thermostat gasket.
 
I sure am glad some of yall are having luck with them.
 
For me, not 100% sure. I used Ultra silicone first on both sides of the gasket , cinched it down, let it sit for 24hrs and torqued it to 15 ft lbs. They are 3/8th bolts, should have taken that. Put antifreeze in and started the engine, it leaked by the time the engine got hot. Poor gasket quality, I don't know, over torquing and warping the housing? I did add washers to the bolts with the silicone gasket, torqued to 23 in lbs. No more leak.
 
Minor warping is normally the culprit.
 
I have never had a thermostat housing on ANY engine, Ford, Chevy, Chrysler not leak till I installed my Real Gasket. I have tried many sealers, techniques, sanding you name it.

I will preach Real Gasket till it lets me down.
 
Dana67Dart said:
he brazed it on!:rofl::poke::rolleyes:
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got to use the right sealant
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kursplat said:
no bueno? what'd ya finally end up using?
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I tried those thinkin I had found the end all be all. I even got the fiber reinforced ones. I used one on the thermostat housing and valve cover. Torqued to their specs. The valve cover leaked really bad. Thermostat housing not as bad but it leaked. I went a little tighter on torque. Still leaked but it helped some. A little tighter still. Still leaked. So I put a standard cork valve cover gasket on and a blue FelPro thermostat gasket and no leaks. I hoped I had found something, because nobody makes a nice reusable valve cover gasket for a slant 6. I couldn't get them to work for me.
 
MoparLeo said:
What was wrong with the housing or manifold to give you that problem ?
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If this was directed at me, nothing. I checked both upon redo with a straight edge and feeler gauge. A .002" feeler gauge wouldn't fit anywhere on both the valve cover rail and the thermostat port. I also checked the thermostat housing and it was the same. I straightened the valve cover rail before I installed it the first time. The only room for error were the gaskets, plus the leaks stopped 100% when conventional gaskets were used.
 
My Real Gasket was working great until yesterday. Blew out in a big way, made a mess of the engine bay. Thankfully it was idling in the driveway with the hood on when it blew
 
Blow out as in gasket failed and sprayed anti-freeze all over the engine. Sorry no pictures, the mess was cleaned up and yes the gasket was installed dry and no sealer. The gasket was pushed out from under the housing. I do have the Real Gaskets on my valve covers and those are leak free
 
13lb cap that came with my Champion radiator. I like the idea of the real gaskets but I think I'll go back to making a gasket with permatex.
 
Real gaskets made out of gasket material like in post #17.

Degrease sealing surfaces with Brake Parts Cleaner, and distilled water to get the old anti-freeze out of the metal's pores.

Then a thin film of Ultra Black Gasket Maker on both dides of the gasket, and a thin layer on the other sealing surfaces. Put it together right away, and snug it down.

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Then let it cure overnight, then fill with coolant the next day. Never Fails.

Good Luck

PS: I started drilling a 1/8" hole in the thermostats so it easily bleeds the air out of the block when refilling.

Air in the block and heads can lead to hot spots and high pressure blowing gaskets out.
 
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