Three wire alternator on a two wire system?

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rymanrph

rymanrph

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The alternator that came with my motor is a Duralast DL7014 pictured here in the vehicle it came out of (another '68 cuda, but it had a three wire system). Its a 50 amp unit - more specs here: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Alternator/_/N-93xme?itemIdentifier=333476_0_0_

IMG_0036_zpsf84d4128.jpg


My current '68 cuda only has a two wire system. Can I use this alternator on the two wire harness?
 
Yes, you can use it but you need to address the 2nd field wire requirements! If your entire wiring system is still 1968 OE, you can simply ground the 2nd field terminal to the case
Of the alternator with a spade terminal on the field spade and a jumper wire to the case!

You can also do it the correct way and run a 2nd field wire from the terminal back to the vtage regulator and splice it into the blue wire. Heck, maybe go all the way and switch out the old regulator with a newer style modern version and pigtail from a 72 and later car and do the splice all at once! The newer regulator is a must with electronic ignition and will set you up for this swap!

Of course Del will chime in and offer the most comprehensive evaluation of this application!! Geof
 
Thanks Geof. I will be upgrading to electronic ignition with TrailBeast's HEI upgrade, so I just want to make sure I've covered all my bases. I'm a little out of my element here and can get confused pretty quickly.
 
cosgig said:
Yes, you can use it but you need to address the 2nd field wire requirements! If your entire wiring system is still 1968 OE, you can simply ground the 2nd field terminal to the case
Of the alternator with a spade terminal on the field spade and a jumper wire to the case!

You can also do it the correct way and run a 2nd field wire from the terminal back to the vtage regulator and splice it into the blue wire. Heck, maybe go all the way and switch out the old regulator with a newer style modern version and pigtail from a 72 and later car and do the splice all at once! The newer regulator is a must with electronic ignition and will set you up for this swap!

Of course Del will chime in and offer the most comprehensive evaluation of this application!! Geof
Click to expand...

LOL, well your answer is a little confusing to me

You MUST a 3 wire alternator with a 70/ later regulator, which looks like this

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/300/312/312-P4529794.jpg

This would require adding one more wire to the harness, from the second field terminal back to the regulator

Otherwise, if you have the 69/ earlier regulator which looks like this

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mzS7A7SnIplR_isvA3MY2NA.jpg

Jus ground the second field terminal. Electrically it does not matter which field terminal you ground.
 
I should add that you can get an electronic Vreg that works with your 2-wire system. The advantage is that you don't need to change any terminals at your Vreg or run any new wires. I bought them for ~$11 at rockauto. They are thin and chrome. You can get original looking ones (ugly black box) for a bit more. Search posts here for info. I am not positive that those can handle the field current of a 50 A alternator, but I would expect so since I think the change was in the stator wiring, not the armature, at least J.C. Whitney sold upgrade kits that swapped stators.

Just so you know your options, for your small block you can get a new "ready-to-run" HEI distributor on ebay for <$50. You can also grab the HEI parts from any GM 85-95 V-8 truck at a junkyard cheap (I did), including the GM cable that runs to the coil. You would still need an electronic distributor (ditto w/ TrailBeast's parts), so can't beat the HEI distributor.
 
I found this M&H harness at Year One (https://www.yearone.com/Product/1966-74-A-B-E-Body/HU228AM), but it states that if I'm using an aftermarket electronic ignition system, I'd be better off starting with what I already have, so that doesn't really help me. I'd stick with the factory electronic ignition if everything I've read didn't say that there are much better options.

I have the three wire alternator and I liked the simplicity of TrailBeast's set up, so I just need to figure out the simplest and most effective way of making it all work together with the factory harness.
 
If I understand this correctly, here is my plan (correct me if I'm wrong).

With the alternator that I have, I should buy a 70+ voltage regulator. Something that looks like this:

312-P4529794.jpg


Then I can get a pigtail for it that looks like this:

$T2eC16V,!yUE9s6NEllCBRwFGkb72Q~~60_35.JPG


The blue wire would splice into my existing blue wire at the current voltage regulator and the green wire would be a new wire that would run to the alternator.

If that is all correct, my only unclear area is the second wire that is connected to the current voltage regulator (u-shaped connector held down by a screw). What happens with that wire?
 
Blue goes to the existing blue wire of your current VR, the green goes to the green of your existing VR, the new 2nd field wire you are going to add splices into the blue wire splice you will be making! Easy as that!! Geof
 
What you show in post #7 would work, but requires that you hack up your factory wiring. Did you look at the electronic Vreg for your car on rockauto's site yet (post #5)? That one has the correct connectors for your car. Maybe Autozone if you hate the rock. I could post a photo, but that would be spoon-feeding, plus you can find posts w/ photos here in a search. You will also read about grounding one of the field terminals on your new alternator (posts 2 & 4 above).
 
BillGrissom said:
What you show in post #7 would work, but requires that you hack up your factory wiring. Did you look at the electronic Vreg for your car on rockauto's site yet (post #5)? That one has the correct connectors for your car. Maybe Autozone if you hate the rock. I could post a photo, but that would be spoon-feeding, plus you can find posts w/ photos here in a search. You will also read about grounding one of the field terminals on your new alternator (posts 2 & 4 above).
Click to expand...

As long it will work when I convert to electronic ignition, I'm all for it. I found one on Ebay here:

[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Voltage-Regulator-Electronic-Solid-State-Correct-Restoration-Look-/181276082593?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a34e581a1"]Mopar Voltage Regulator Electronic Solid State Amp Correct Restoration Look | eBay[/ame]

I don't have anything against Rock Auto or Autozone, but I wasn't sure how to look it up since I assume when I tell the site I have a '68 it will just give me a part number for the old mechanical voltage regulator.

I really do appreciate the help since this is a little beyond what I understand. I'm trying to figure out the wiring for my alternator, electronic ignition, electric choke and repairing the cut wires for my NSS all in a vehicle that has never run with the current drive train. So, thanks.
 
Most parts store regulators may look like "mechanical" but they will in fact internally be solid state. Easy to tell Look at the ebay auction of the underside

On older mechanical units, there is two large wirewound resistors on the underside.
 
67Dart273 said:
Most parts store regulators may look like "mechanical" but they will in fact internally be solid state. Easy to tell Look at the ebay auction of the underside

On older mechanical units, there is two large wirewound resistors on the underside.
Click to expand...

I see what you're saying. I guess its possible that the one on my car already may work (I'm not sure its original). I'll have to take a look at it when I get home.
 
Most (if not all) of the replacement voltage regulators are now solid state. They're a lot cheaper to make than the old points-style regulators and work fine with electronic ignition. Of course, they also suffer from the outsourced manufacturer syndrome and may be bad on the shelf.

BC
 
rymanrph said:
... I wasn't sure how to look it up since I assume when I tell the site I have a '68 it will just give me a part number for the old mechanical voltage regulator.
Click to expand...
That ebay one will work, especially if you want to pay more to get the original "big, black box" look.

Why do you need to ASSume? This spoon-feeding took me 30 sec:
rockauto, 68 Barracuda 225, $24.
I could swear I only paid $11 a year or two ago.

And you shouldn't call your car a "cuda". The early ones were A-body named " Barracuda ". When they changed to E-body, they were renamed " 'cuda ". For slang, call yours a "fish".
 

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Actually Bill not all the E bodies were 'Cudas, either..........only the "higher end" ones, not sure at what point, 340?
 
I came home and tried to figure out if my current voltage regulator is a solid state or the original mechanical, but its a sealed unit. It doesn't appear to be very old, but is there any way of telling by just looking at the outside? I know these might seem like elementary level questions, but I've never dealt with it before so, consider me on an elementary level.

34E7C7D8-AD2B-418B-B29E-6FA76F7A3B2D_zpsp4pocmet.jpg


4605A372-DE0F-4286-A07F-1F86620876A7_zpsadhfehti.jpg


As far as calling it cuda, I realize that the formal name is Barracuda, but I also realize that people most likely called it cuda long before it was ever officially 'cuda. I use it for the same reason I don't say Plymouth every time; its shorter and everyone knows what it is. Is that lazy? Yes, yes it is. No one ever complains when someone calls a Corvette a Vette and yes I know its not the same because there was never a later model called Vette, but honestly does it really matter?

Anyways, thanks for the help guys! Its truly appreciated.
 
There is no possible way that what you have there is a mechanical regulator. It IS electronic, plain and simple
 
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