timing chain

-
70wayfarer

70wayfarer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2011
Messages
419
Reaction score
33
Location
new zealand
ok, i have had my 360 block tunnel bored which has resulted in a small amount of slack in the timing chain.
do i need to correct this with a tunnel bore timing set like Rollmaster do or can i just install a tensioner.
cheers
 
Abodybomber said:
Tapped your post, that's the Cloyes.. Degree the cam..without it, just personal opine.. I cannot remember, if you went full solid roller cam, or not...
Click to expand...
i went hyd. roller. used the hughes/morel retro fit lifters and a custom grind cam from hughes. the lifters were a waste of money, noisey bloody things. and the cam should have been good if they designed it around my combo. both are now in the cupboard and have gone with solid flat tappet. the roller deal is a lot of coin for FA gain.
 
Abodybomber said:
All small block tensioners are stock Magnum, ALL MADE BY CLOYES..:)... Shop around, Mopar brother......
Click to expand...

I know I've been told this "before." Yet right now I have at least 3 maybe 4 Magnums tore down and NOT ONE came with a factory tensioner.
 
OP, moving your crank up a bit and getting some timing chain slack, will effect cam timing. It will likely be only 1-2 degrees of retard, but you may want to thoroughly check your cam timing. The addition of a chain tensioner does not correct this timing change.
 
nm9stheham said:
OP, moving your crank up a bit and getting some timing chain slack, will effect cam timing. It will likely be only 1-2 degrees of retard, but you may want to thoroughly check your cam timing. The addition of a chain tensioner does not correct this timing change.
Click to expand...
i have two timing sets. one is a Avon set i got from hughes and a Rollmaster set. the avon set was the one i fitted that had a fair amount of slack. forgot i even had the Rollmaster set until i was looking for something else, go figure. any ways the Rollmaster set has very little if any slack at all. both sets are new WTF. another crap product from hughes, along with shitty hyd. roller lifters and a lack luster cam grind, won't be dealing with them again.
 
When Hughes first started selling "fast-rate, made-for-.904 lifters" cams, They flat-out said that their FTH cams had near roller rate ramps on them. When I bought their HE2430Al it spec'd out at 223/230/110 and lifts of .538/.549 with 1.6 arms. I was so excited to believe I had the fastest cam in it's size available with near roller-rate ramps. That cam was a fantastic piece all right, it really was. But it died, and I replaced it with the next bigger Hughes cam, an HE 3037AL.
Some time later, Hughes stopped making those and published the Advertised specs.
It turns out that the 223/230 cam was a 270/276/110 , and the ramps are therefore about (270-223)/2 =23.5* from advertised to .050, which is just not that fast, at all. Furthermore it seems Hughes cams are not spec'd from the same .006 starting point that others usually are. I thought that was altogether somewhat deceptive.
At the time tho, they did have the highest lift for the size of cam, by a fair margin. So perhaps the "fast-rate" is from .050 to max-lift, IDK. I was never sorry to have installed that cam, and was sorry when it dropped some lobes. And I've never been sorry with the current HE3037AL.
But time marches on, and it seems other cam companies have caught the .904 lifter fever.
Sorry to hear you had a bad experience with them.
 
I have had bad luck with the tensioners. The spring loaded guide was broken near the pivot and the flat spring fell out when i removed the cover. I wont install another one. If there's slack get the shorter chain version.
 
Here's some thing to think about............

You can purchase timing chain sets that will compensate for the crank shaft being moved up in the block due to line boreing/honeing. You will need to measure the change in the center line distance of the crank shaft as it relates to the center line of the cam shaft; stock distance is: 6.12 inches.
 
JBurch said:
Here's some thing to think about............

You can purchase timing chain sets that will compensate for the crank shaft being moved up in the block due to line boreing/honeing. You will need to measure the change in the center line distance of the crank shaft as it relates to the center line of the cam shaft; stock distance is: 6.12 inches.
Click to expand...
This^ Call the guys at Cloyes. They'll get ya set up properly. I would never run a tensionor in an LA engine. No particular reason other than Ma Mopar never put one in there. Not to mention that 1 added part equals one added potential failure.
 
I've run the cloyes true roller chain with excellent results! There is a street roller chain, however i only get the true roller set which is a race set. Never needed tensioner in my 360. I've checked my chain when replacing my fuel pump 50,000 miles later still tight!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top