What is the timing specs for a 318 from 71? I looked online but didn't have much luck. I have it set at TDC now, but it seems to want to hesitate a bit. I have just finished replacing the intake and carb with a Edel Performer and 600 Holley... It doesn't seem to have added much additional power and I am wondering if it might be a timing or air/fuel issue. Thanks guys.
Timing issues on '71 318
- Thread starter 19dart71
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C130 Chief
Mechanical Genius
You should be OK advancing to 10 degrees BTDC or maybe a bit more. Try advancing and see if it makes a difference.
Was the 4bbl and intake the only thing you did? If you still have the original cam, single exhaust and 2.76 gears, I wouldn't expect a huge increase.
Was the 4bbl and intake the only thing you did? If you still have the original cam, single exhaust and 2.76 gears, I wouldn't expect a huge increase.
thanks C130 Chief I will give it a try. I have not changed anything else. To be honest the accelerator pump froze on the 2bbl and it didn't make any sense to rebuild the stock, so I upgraded. Maybe my expectations were unrealistic. I guess if I can get the stutter to stop, I'd be a happy man until the dream 360 materializes.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I set mine at TDC like the sticker said and it sucked.
Bumped it up till it preignited at wide open throttle and then backed it off till the pinging went away.
Chked it with the timing light and distributor disconnected and it was at about 15 BTDC.
Hooked the vacuum back up and chked it again with the light and the timing mark on the dampener could not be found any longer. (was up under the water pump)
The engine sure likes it a lot better.
You can't really go wrong having the timing set as far advanced as you can but where there is no detonation.
Advance it, drop the idle down to compensate, test drive and keep doing that until it starts detonating and then back it off a little.
note where the vac advance line on the distributor is and about a quarter inch retarded from there should do it.
"Old school by ear method"
Bumped it up till it preignited at wide open throttle and then backed it off till the pinging went away.
Chked it with the timing light and distributor disconnected and it was at about 15 BTDC.
Hooked the vacuum back up and chked it again with the light and the timing mark on the dampener could not be found any longer. (was up under the water pump)
The engine sure likes it a lot better.
You can't really go wrong having the timing set as far advanced as you can but where there is no detonation.
Advance it, drop the idle down to compensate, test drive and keep doing that until it starts detonating and then back it off a little.
note where the vac advance line on the distributor is and about a quarter inch retarded from there should do it.
"Old school by ear method"
The stock spec for a '71 318 is + or - 2.5 degrees.
But, that's not anywhere near where I run mine. Most do pretty good with 10-12 degrees advanced. For some reason, the 318 in my Challenger runs best around 18 degrees advanced. Don't know why, engine was rebuilt by the previous owner so I don't have all the specs, could be cam timing etc. But I run it 18* advanced, with all in at 36*. Vacuum advance is disabled, mechanical advance only because starting at 18* and adding vacuum and mechanical advance gave me way too much timing. I even had to tweak the mechanical advance to end up there. I also run an edelbrock streetmaster, 600 cfm Carter and headers.
But, that's not anywhere near where I run mine. Most do pretty good with 10-12 degrees advanced. For some reason, the 318 in my Challenger runs best around 18 degrees advanced. Don't know why, engine was rebuilt by the previous owner so I don't have all the specs, could be cam timing etc. But I run it 18* advanced, with all in at 36*. Vacuum advance is disabled, mechanical advance only because starting at 18* and adding vacuum and mechanical advance gave me way too much timing. I even had to tweak the mechanical advance to end up there. I also run an edelbrock streetmaster, 600 cfm Carter and headers.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
One big problem with just jacking up the timing on a smogger is that some of those had distributors with REAL loooooonnnnggg slow advance curves, which means that if you bump it up a bunch, it might be over-advanced on the top end. Generally, you need to recurve the dist. or get a performance one which will have a much shorter/ faster curve.
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
With stocker 318's and 'stock curved distributors' I do like others have said and run 10-12* initial and end up around 35* total....other times i just set total as high as the motor can take without 'ping' under load..that can be anywhere from 35-38* in worst cases being that the cyl psi must be really weak to need that much...jmo
in the relm of working fine...anywhere from 32-35* total @3800+ will do. imo
make sure ur disconnecting the vac canister when checking/setting intitial/total timing....after those are set...thhheeennn check the vac adv added timing and see how high u can tune it for milage, if u want..
in the relm of working fine...anywhere from 32-35* total @3800+ will do. imo
make sure ur disconnecting the vac canister when checking/setting intitial/total timing....after those are set...thhheeennn check the vac adv added timing and see how high u can tune it for milage, if u want..
Interesting! I know that the 318's seem to take a lot of initial timing, although, the 18-20 I usually have mine at is a bit more than most take. Mine's in my '72 Challenger, but its an '83 318 with '72 heads. But nothing on the ignition or fuel side is stock, so its not really a smog engine.
Good info there!
Also, it reminded me that I'm running a Pertronix distributor with mine as well. The mechanical advance also had to be tuned to finish out at about 35*, but that's pretty easy with the springs and instructions that come with the dizzy.
green1
Well-Known Member
Advance until ping; back it off. If it starts warm with no problems, good. If not, need to change slots, to take out mechanical a tad. Curve is different, it adjusts only for rpm.
1971swinger
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your help that's a good idea all the old charts I find say TDC. I have a stock 318 71 swinger with electronic ignition now replacing the reluctor and I'm not sure if I'll have to re-time it or not
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
FYI...this thread is ten years old. Just sayin'.
That being said, the info is still pertinent. I ran my 340 at 36 total advance with a quick spring kit and vacuum advance disabled. IIRC it was fully advanced by 1500 and never had any issues. But then, gas was different back then, too.
That being said, the info is still pertinent. I ran my 340 at 36 total advance with a quick spring kit and vacuum advance disabled. IIRC it was fully advanced by 1500 and never had any issues. But then, gas was different back then, too.
1971swinger
Well-Known Member
1971swinger
Well-Known Member
Yeah I realized it was 10 years old but I was just trying to find out some information on specs. And I happen to run across this
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
And 10 years later I’m still here, and the motor is still running that same timing and still runs great.
1971swinger
Well-Known Member
1971swinger
Well-Known Member
You rock trail beast. I watch all your videos man they're very educational and help me out I try to do as much as my on my own as I can thanks again
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Yeah, don't expect much if anything below 3000 rpm. And don't mistake 4bbl roar below 3000 to be power roar. The 2bbl was probably good to at least that.
And when it does start to make power,if the tires don't spin, it doesn't instantly create horsepower. It starts at 1 hp per 100 rpm, then another one and another one, all the way to the power peak, adding one or two horsepower per 100 rpm; more per 100 as the rpm passes thru the powerpeak..
So don't be too disappointed.
DOH!! sucked in again I am.
Since you went that far you might want to change the exhaust to something that is compatible with your eventual 360. That 4 bbl move needs the cork taken out if the system to really make that upgrade to be realized. For my street cars just getting some 68-70 manifolds and a good free flowing set of duals seem to do the trick without fighting header fit and longevity issues and then you are all set for your 360.
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