Tire wear, what's causing this! ? ?

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i went with the tube upper arms and adjustable strut rods for the adjustment aspect of it..

you can get good alignment specs with stock uppers and stock style strut rods...
 
Stock. :violent2:


What's recomended when adjusting the bars?
At what adjustment.?

stock? what are they slant six bars? what did the car come from the factory with??

a factory service manual should tell you where to set them. but a lot of us go with large bars ( 1"+). i have the 1" and just set the ride height where i liked it..
 
stock? what are they slant six bars? what did the car come from the factory with??

a factory service manual should tell you where to set them. but a lot of us go with large bars ( 1"+). i have the 1" and just set the ride height where i liked it..

well it has the swap from a 73 dodge charger 440 magnum and you informed me that my front end looks like a 73 a body.. i would imagine it is the same

again , sorry i am working on that shopping list im referencing a 1973 duster but i am getting different part numbers than the once you suggested. what car did you reference?

whats this #k791 qty=2 <---- :D( where does this bushing go? )
compared to this #k408 qty=1

do i get both total of three?




sorry the swap was alreAdy in when i purchased car form original owner. i tried to go back for more info but didnt get any?
 
how would i install the control arm bushings i know peopl ehave said no tto do it the way the instructions say but to do it a certain way. arrows pointing in a specific way.
 
k791 is the lower control arm bushings...


k408 are the upper control arm bushings. you do not need these if you are going with tube uppers.
 
how would i install the control arm bushings i know peopl ehave said no tto do it the way the instructions say but to do it a certain way. arrows pointing in a specific way.

if you are going with tube upper arms you won't be using those bushings..


the list i put together was for you if you were using stock style upper arms. so you need to delete the upper ball joints and upper bushings...


if you have any questions on the part numbers just google moog ***** and it will tell you what it is...
 
if you are going with tube upper arms you won't be using those bushings..


the list i put together was for you if you were using stock style upper arms. so you need to delete the upper ball joints and upper bushings...


if you have any questions on the part numbers just google moog ***** and it will tell you what it is...

great>....... would i need an idler arm bushing? or does it come with idler arm already?


thank again. great help great help./.. :cheers::prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer:
 
well it has the swap from a 73 dodge charger 440 magnum and you informed me that my front end looks like a 73 a body.. i would imagine it is the same

again , sorry i am working on that shopping list im referencing a 1973 duster but i am getting different part numbers than the once you suggested. what car did you reference?


what did the car originally have in it motor wise? was it a slant six or a 318? either way you should probably go with a larger torsion bar.


you have a 73-up style disc brake system on the car.

what numbers are different for a 73 that you are talking about??

what year car are you working on? the pitman arm and idler arms i posted were for a 70. 73-up will be a different number...

refer to this list for the part numbers.. http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/moognumbers.shtml


73-up pitman arm is powersteering K7076.... manual steering K7075

73-up idler arm is K7086
 


this is what i meant. thanks sorry it was a dumb question.
this chart does not reference my car but it explains where the bushing is located.
my car is originally a 318 v8
 
Yes that's where the lower arm bushing goes.

Get a service manual. It will help a lot. He'll there is a thread around here somewhere that you can download one.
 
Check YouTube for a complete (sorta) walk through. This guy does his whole 73 dart front end.
[ame]http://youtu.be/dZ-K6BiKido[/ame]
 
Shopping list complete!


Order placed!

The control arm bushings upper and lower are the only ones that will need to be machine pressed? Also will need pitman arm puller and a giant pry bar (fork) anything else. ? I hate getting stuck because I'm missing a tool
 
Shopping list complete!


Order placed!

The control arm bushings upper and lower are the only ones that will need to be machine pressed? Also will need pitman arm puller and a giant pry bar (fork) anything else. ? I hate getting stuck because I'm missing a tool

You're correct!
 
Shopping list complete!


Order placed!

The control arm bushings upper and lower are the only ones that will need to be machine pressed? Also will need pitman arm puller and a giant pry bar (fork) anything else. ? I hate getting stuck because I'm missing a tool
Yes on the press items.

You wil need:
- BFH
- Puller for pitman arm as you know
- Pickle forks for BJ's and tie rod removal (2 sizes typically, large and small, but you can use the BFH in place of the large one on the BJ's; you whack the SIDE of the steering knuckles where the BJ studs go through reeeealy, reeeeally hard and they will pop loose.)
- A socket for the upper ball joints; they actually thread out of and into the upper control arm. Remove the old ones while on the car. Here is the cheap one time use socket for this for the size listed in the thread (There are 2 sizes of upper BJ's and I can't recall which is which so measure yours flat-to-flat.):
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=280871
- A removal tool for the torsion bars; these have to be removed for the lower contral arms to be removed; sometimes they get a bit stuck. You can make one from flat steel and small muffler clamps, or get one from Summit.
- Torque wrench that goes up to 150 ft-lbs
- Tools for removing lots of cotter pins (Pretty much every joint you will remove has a cotter pin in it)
- PB Blaster or liquid wrench
 
great thanks!


any one here have a downloadable MANUAL? i have a 1968 a body but apperantly have a 1973 front suspension set up. any one? any one? thank you/ in advance.

shopping list order due to come in in about a week i will update you guys then and try and take photos.

thnaks again ABODYJOE for that shopping list.. reference ......BUMP.

just to go back an go through what ive done so far... is i replaced my sway bars links front and rear (the correct way now) bump stop bushings front and rear new front shocks. new rear Super Stock leaf springs 4in. lift. that i think is too much and too stiff but hey' it looks nice and also new rear drag shocks.... which by the way did not fit on the upper socket. i had to pull out the new upper bushing and use the old one.... and as of now my car is out of commission because raising the back fooled around with my steering! feels horrible which leads to my shopping list that i am waiting for ... thanks all>................
front left lower ball join
front right lower ball joint
upper ball joint x2
UPC bushings
LCA bushings x2
pitman arm
idler arm
inner tie ends x2
outter tie ends x2
sleeves x2

268$ (MOOG) rock auto -

i think thats all -
 
Well don't feel too bad, the new steering will really help you. Probaly not convenient to have to do all this, but it sure looks like it is badly overdue.

As for the rear, the drag shocks are not likely to be what you want on the street; I would not expect the compression/rebpound rates to be optimized for street use. If you have the $$, I would spring for some Bilsteins front and rear. Those heavier springs need a stiffer shock to keep the spring and shock rates matched for the street.

BTW, on the tools, the BJ boots sometimes are a challenge to get properly and fully seated on the BJ's; if you don't get the fully seated, you'll get dirt and water in the BJ's and they will wear out prematurely. I use a really big socket that I have for other things, but any short round metal tube with smooth edges will do as a toll to tap the boots home on their seats.
 
At some point, very soon,youre going to have to make some hard decisions.Running those SS springs with matching shocks,on the street,at elevated ride height, is not for everyone.Youre going to need to focus.
-The way I see it, there are at least 5 set-ups; 1)Tracks with corners,2)Tracks with no corners, 3)Weekend bomber, 4)Street cruiser, and 5)Daily driver. There may be a little overlap here and there, for those willing to compromise. You need to select a category and concentrate(focus) your time,money, and efforts in it. Other wise your spare parts pile will grow and grow and grow.And disappointment or frustration could set in.
-Once the SSs are on there in stock form, your focus has been narrowed to categories 2 and 3;the straight-line world. If de-arched, maybe 1, and MAYBE 4.Surely not 5.
-For a street car,with the rear at the nosebleed ride height, and superstiff, you will need at least 10 inches of rubber on the road out back to keep the back, in the back,or else cornering will be a challenge. And you will need at least 1 inch T-bars, and a 1 inch or better front sway-bar.So if your pockets are deep this will turn into a sorta sweet ride. At least it will look great; parked or in a parade. It will not corner all that well.
-As a track car it could 60 ft pretty good,with a little tuning.
-As a daily driver, it will rattle your bones on any but the smoothest roads.
-I see that youre pretty excited about that A-body, as was I when I began my A-project those many years ago. And they can excel in any one category that you chose.With careful selection of parts a little overlap of categories is possible.
 
^^^ AJ, you wrote up very succinctly what I was thinking last night: what is the use for this car? Street? Strip? These rear springs are really only best for strip use or for culturing a drag race look, IMO. The alignment will change with them in or out. If kept for handling use, I would de-arch them as suggested, but you might be better off selling them and getting others.

And to the OP: Do you know what diameter of front torsion bars you have? Sorry if I missed it in the earlier posts.) If not, then measure it soon and let everyone know. You need to measure them with a caliper, as the size increments are very, very small. The T-bar diameter that is best depends on the desired use, just like the rear springs.
 
One question am I able to use an air hammer to remove UCA BUSHINGS? And LCA bushing?

I have an air hammer, I also bought the pitman arm puller. I don't have the UPPER BALL JOINT socket though I cannot find any that size.
 
-I have used the air hammer on occasion.The bushing has to be driven straight out or you risk egging out the hole. That means driving it out using a pin through the opposite hole and a metal slug next to the bushing. And you still need to support the control arm so the hammer blows will be effective. Kind of a complicated set-up,sometimes requiring an assistant,but can be done in a pinch.
-I would think an easier method would be a couple of sockets and a length of ready-rod(all-thread). The factory tool works slick.A small press works next best.And then is an all steel work bench,a socket, and a big hammer.Theyre not usually that tight, unless theyre really rusty;which a wire wheel will take care of.
 
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