Like he said. you just want to be able to move car. replace the seal put your reman converter in and fill fluid. It will keep you mobile for a while. your leak most likely was from the crack/seal and just ran down to the area you saw the fluid at.
what are the chances I wore through that bushing?
That transmission would come down if it was mine. Where did all the metal go?
It wasn't in my budget to buy high end stuff. If that converter lasts even 3000 miles.
It will last the life of the car with me driving it.
I've put a lot into it already just making it roadworthy and even running.
I will get rid of the burs on the shaft. I just need it to be able to get here and there. I can't take it out and take it apart right now
If I could I would have it rebuilt.
I also have to factor in that this car is not numbers matching
And basically worth maybe $4000
I've got way more than that in it by putting upgraded everything.
New fuel system and disc brake
Bucket seats and console win column as well as several other things and it hasn't added to the value. It's worth as much as a /6 car
I do it for the passion of it. But I also have to facto in that even close to what I put in it I won't get back out of I ever have to sell it. If it was a 69 charger it would be different and anything that went in would raise the value
So I have to watch spending on it and do it right when I can for how much I drive the car.
Even though it has a lot of upgrades it still needs a lot of work. The engine needs to be rebuilt as the mains are shot as well
I could drop 15 grand to make a nice care and will do that just because I like it. But it won't return that probably ever being a non numbers car
The $90 converter should last and keep it on the road. What else can I put in there. I won't ever see more than 300hp if that. I will redo the pump. The seal behind it is the leak. The face of the pump is dry but I will check again
And don't forget to flush out the cooler in the rad. It's a wonderful place for crud to accumulate and a lot of people seem to forget this area.Not worn through, but that bushing is trash, and it's easy to tell by the converter hub.
If you put a new converter in that old bushing you will be buying another one.
At the very least it needs the pump disassembled and inspected and if the pump is ok a new bushing and seal.
Then the cooler lines need to be flushed (both directions) a new filter and fluid.
(AT THE VERY LEAST)
Through the pump, converter, cooler lines and into the pan at the very least.
And don't forget to flush out the cooler in the rad. It's a wonderful place for crud to accumulate and a lot of people seem to forget this area.
You and I know this, but some forget that a transmission cooling system is an enclosed system.I kind of assumed the radiator part when I mentioned cooler lines.
But yea.
I do appreciate the advice.. I didn’t see a converter do any higher that wasn’t performance.
They had b&m, tci, and some the we’re like $900
Apparently.....dacco closed. They were here in town but we’re bought out by transtar who doesn’t rebuild them.
If I don’t rebuild it. I’ll flush it by removing the filter.
Rusty....your advice is always welcome. You have a lot more experience in these cars than I do. I’ve not ventured I tot he transmission side of things before.
I’m in middle Tennessee. unfortunately it’s too far
Look at the condition of the hub. The hub is done, and the bushing that supports it is also gone. I doubt that you wore through the bushing, although you won't know until you take the old one out. Remember, the converter hub must be like a journal on a crank, baby-*** smooth, and the surface it rides on (pump bushing) must also be baby-*** smooth. The seal will be shot too. You bought all the right parts, pump gasket, pump o-ring, bolt seals, pump bushing and the front seal. Replace all of those parts, or you'll be yanking the transmission out again, and have to do the job all over again. Oh, and while you're at it, have a close inspection on the two tangs on the inner pump gear. They could be FUBARED also.
On a side note: I never, in almost 30 years in the transmission business, ever saw a re-builder replace the converter without replacing all those parts you've purchased, especially the pump bushing. Even if the old bushing "looked" good.
DO IT RIGHT - ONCE!!
Look at the condition of the hub. The hub is done, and the bushing that supports it is also gone. I doubt that you wore through the bushing, although you won't know until you take the old one out. Remember, the converter hub must be like a journal on a crank, baby-*** smooth, and the surface it rides on (pump bushing) must also be baby-*** smooth. The seal will be shot too. You bought all the right parts, pump gasket, pump o-ring, bolt seals, pump bushing and the front seal. Replace all of those parts, or you'll be yanking the transmission out again, and have to do the job all over again. Oh, and while you're at it, have a close inspection on the two tangs on the inner pump gear. They could be FUBARED also.
On a side note: I never, in almost 30 years in the transmission business, ever saw a re-builder replace the converter without replacing all those parts you've purchased, especially the pump bushing. Even if the old bushing "looked" good.
DO IT RIGHT - ONCE!!