torque converter/stall, help

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roylerumble

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I need a stall for my 727. I'm putting it behind a 408 stroker. I went to a transmission shop today to inquire about the stall, and the guy wanted to know if I needed on that was balanced. My engine is internally balanced

This is my first mild performance build, and I don't know a ton about transmissions and converters.

The builder, who I cannot get hold of right now, said I needed a 2500 stall for the engine.

What information do I need to know when buying a stall/torque converter and selecting the right one.

I've heard some good things about B&M's converter.
 
Call a well known convertor shop (Ultimate,Dynamic,Coan), give them your engine specs(mostly cam)gear size,tire size and your intended use for the car(street/strip or race).Your convertor is a key piece to the performance of your car,so be truthful when explaining use of the car.Good luck.:D.
 
Thanks pettybludart.

I searched the forums and read about how important the converter is. I was not expecting to pay much more than $3-400 bucks, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

Add to the list if you know of anymore info that I need:
Rear wheel/tire size-18", 145 50 R18
Internally ballanced
Cam lift INTAKE .544 EXH .565
Duration @ .050 INT 244 @ .050 EXH 252
Cam degree 106
3.55 gears with power lok
Use, 99% street with the occasional weekend at the strip
complete electronic ignition from FBO

One last question, what differentiates a good custom built converter to an off the shelf part?
 
It really depends on what rpm the cam has its peak power at. If you get a matching TC with the stall around the same as your peak performing rpm range in the cam, you SHOULD be ok. That being said, you do need the B&M flexplate for a 408 stroker, and you need to take into consideration everything else. I second what PettyBluDart said. Call up TCI performance or B&M and tell them your specs. 2500 sounds like a good stall for your setup IMO
 
Yes I agree also that a 2500 stall seems about right,but I,m concerned about the 18 inch tires with a 3.55 gear. I feel the 18 inch wheels will lower your rear gear some,so I still feel that you should speak with an expert in this field for best performance.Remember...it's a key piece with your build.
 
say your order an "off the shelf 2500 rpm converter....to what engine specs was that converter build too?

It could stall anywhere from 3000 rpm to 1800 rpm depending on what engine combo is in front of it....

if you have one build to your engine combo...then it can be build to provide you with the stall speed you want...

most 3000 rpm stall off the shelf converter...stall 3000 rpm behind a 440 and maybe 2000 rpm behind a 318...the reason why....TORQUE...more torque more it converts....hence the name torque converter....
 
A convertor builder needs to know what size diameter your rear TIRES are not what size the wheels are. Also, if the engine is internally balanced, any stock flex plate will work. The special one from B&M is only necessary on externally balanced motors.

Save your money and buy a good convertor built for your engine and not some generic off the shelf fits all convertor that may work but won't be optimized for your intended purposes.
 
Bypass the transmission shop guy. His knowledge on performance converters is probably very limited.
 
roylerumble said:
Thanks pettybludart.

I searched the forums and read about how important the converter is. I was not expecting to pay much more than $3-400 bucks, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

Add to the list if you know of anymore info that I need:
Rear wheel/tire size-18", 145 50 R18
Internally ballanced
Cam lift INTAKE .544 EXH .565
Duration @ .050 INT 244 @ .050 EXH 252
Cam degree 106
3.55 gears with power lok
Use, 99% street with the occasional weekend at the strip
complete electronic ignition from FBO

One last question, what differentiates a good custom built converter to an off the shelf part?
Click to expand...

That's got to be incorrect.

I've had some great off the shelf converters. Those were not the norm and to get the best out of a converter, buy one that is built for the application.

Be more concerned with the FLASH speed. I like stuff that drives tight, almost like a normal converter but when you mash the pedal, the engine spools up FAST. I would put something that flashes 3500-3800 behind that engine. The converter companies can build these. Plenty of guys have pulled older style converters, got more flash, and tighter/efficient/lower cruise rpms out of custom built stuff. DJV, Abodyjoe and a bunch of others.

You'll spend 550-750 for a good converter, IMO, they are worth every penny. Guys will spend 7500-15000 on an engine then buy a $300 converter. The converter is probably the single most important piece in a cars driveline.
 
crackedback said:
that's got to be incorrect.

I've had some great off the shelf converters. Those were not the norm and to get the best out of a converter, buy one that is built for the application.

Be more concerned with the flash speed. I like stuff that drives tight, almost like a normal converter but when you mash the pedal, the engine spools up fast. I would put something that flashes 3500-3800 behind that engine. The converter companies can build these. Plenty of guys have pulled older style converters, got more flash, and tighter/efficient/lower cruise rpms out of custom built stuff. Djv, abodyjoe and a bunch of others.

You'll spend 550-750 for a good converter, imo, they are worth every penny. Guys will spend 7500-15000 on an engine then buy a $300 converter. The converter is probably the single most important piece in a cars driveline.
Click to expand...

x2
 
Yup, and be sure to hook up that damn TV rod or cable and set it WOT/Full travel at trans! If it's a cable, be sure the carb linkage travel, and the linkage on the trans move at the same ratio, I had to drill a hole inboard on mine to get it right.
 
crackedback said:
You'll spend 550-750 for a good converter, IMO, they are worth every penny. Guys will spend 7500-15000 on an engine then buy a $300 converter. The converter is probably the single most important piece in a cars driveline.
Click to expand...


^ x3
I'll add be totally honest with the guy you talk to. Too lose will only lose a small amount of ET, and honestly with a street tire 1st gear will be pretty useless anyway. I like a tighter convertor. With that package I like the idea of a tight 2500. Most of my street stuff I recommend 2200-2500 for the 3.23 and 3.55 gears with a 4" arm. It likes to pull...
 
The converter is one item you should not put in the same sentence as "budget". Chances are an off the shelf converter may be perfect for your build. Like a 1 in 10 chance. Dont do it over again like I once did. Selling a converter on ebay and purchasing the one you should have had in the first place costs alot. Listen to pettybluedart. When you nail it with the right converter and your 3.55s it will be worth the money.
 
roylerumble said:
Thanks pettybludart.

I searched the forums and read about how important the converter is. I was not expecting to pay much more than $3-400 bucks, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

Add to the list if you know of anymore info that I need:
Rear wheel/tire size-18", 145 50 R18
Internally ballanced
Cam lift INTAKE .544 EXH .565
Duration @ .050 INT 244 @ .050 EXH 252
Cam degree 106
3.55 gears with power lok
Use, 99% street with the occasional weekend at the strip
complete electronic ignition from FBO

One last question, what differentiates a good custom built converter to an off the shelf part?
Click to expand...

A custom built unit is BUILT FOR YOUR APPLICATION, not a generiac fits most applications.
 
I bought a Coan after a TCI left me bitter on a previous engine/car. Had a 3000 stall unit that drove fine on the highway, and in town. When I buried my foot, Dr. Jekyll showed his lovely face!
 
Call ptc convertors .Had one built for my car had it in a week.Was not much more than buying one off the shelf
 
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