tranny kickdown adjustment

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trudysduster

trudysduster

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I just bought a Lokar tranny cable kit for this 440/727 combo. I also bought the bracket for the carb. SRK4000. what is the proper way to adjust the linkage with a Lokar cable. does it adjust the same as with the linkage rod. I believe I have a few manuals laying around here.
 
There have been several threads about throttle travel. Guys found they could get a lot more with their hand under the hood than what they get from the pedal inside. So check throttle travel first. Once you're sure you're getting WOT from the pedal, then set up the pressure linkage to trans.
 
Yeah, just saying, Why do it twice ? If the throttle pressure is set up to go all the way to the stop in the trans then throttle linkage is reworked...
The factory mechanical linkage was never set up to push the lever on the trans fully against that stop. Jamming it up tight would only distort one or more of the many pieces over time anyway. In time you will find there is some fine tuning required. You'll want kick down or passing gear before the pedal hits the carpet, providing the throttle pedal is working right.
 
trudysduster said:
thanks Ben. so WOT and the lever should be all the way to the stop. right
Click to expand...

You also have to make sure that your choke levers are open as well. When the engine is cold and you manually try to go to full throttle the choke "cut out" will actually keep you from getting the throttle to open all the way. Many carbs are designed this way to keep you from flooring the carb before the engine is warmed up. Sometimes it's hard to get the choke cut out to release. You got to jiggle the levers around on the secondaries....you do have a four barrel, correct???

treblig
 
yes, I am running the 650 Eddy Thunder series on it right now. I think I am going to swap it with the 750 Eddy on the Dart Sport and put that one back on mine. I believe the 750 would do better on mine. I have the choke levers wired wide open on both carbs. I may get this old car running right before too long. Then what will I do to pass the time.
 
trudysduster said:
yes, I am running the 650 Eddy Thunder series on it right now. I think I am going to swap it with the 750 Eddy on the Dart Sport and put that one back on mine. I believe the 750 would do better on mine. I have the choke levers wired wide open on both carbs. I may get this old car running right before too long. Then what will I do to pass the time.
Click to expand...

I know what you mean. I've been modifying my '69 Barracuda since the day I bought it 4 years ago. It's on the car rack right now getting more mods:violent1:


Treblig
 
trudysduster said:
thanks Ben. so WOT and the lever should be all the way to the stop. right
Click to expand...

Yes. Depending on how the pressure valve is adjusted in the valve body however, you may need to back off of the cable adjustment if it shifts too late or too hard. But all the way back with the throttle at WOT is the correct starting point. Often times you can leave it there.
 
about what speeds should it shift, 10-15 and 25-30. right now it just about gives me whiplash as it is in high gear before you know it. I have been just shifting it manually but I guess I need to get it right. thanks
 
It's really all dependent on what YOU want it to do. As long as it does not shift too early. I always like mine to shift at least a little late. It's really something you can tailor to your personal driving as long as it's not too early.
 
ok. I will play with it. I don't like mine to shift early either. just adjust the rod down at the lever to change it.
 
Rusty, the throttle at WOT and the lever on the tranny should be pushed all the way back towards the back of the transmission is the correct way to start out with this and then adjust as needed.
 
i have a question rusty rat rod. i spent what i think is a lot of money for a transmission rebuild and the linkage is adjusted i believe correct and it shifts way way to soon compared to a stock factory car. you mention valve adjustment. easy fix would sure be nice' id love to lern more about this. even with throttle wide open and trans lever full advanced it shifts at around 3000.I have been over riding it manualy and wouldnt be surprized if that had consequences.would love to learn something hear thanks.
 
trudysduster said:
Rusty, the throttle at WOT and the lever on the tranny should be pushed all the way back towards the back of the transmission is the correct way to start out with this and then adjust as needed.
Click to expand...

Exactly right.
 
cudaman51 said:
i have a question rusty rat rod. i spent what i think is a lot of money for a transmission rebuild and the linkage is adjusted i believe correct and it shifts way way to soon compared to a stock factory car. you mention valve adjustment. easy fix would sure be nice' id love to lern more about this. even with throttle wide open and trans lever full advanced it shifts at around 3000.I have been over riding it manualy and wouldnt be surprized if that had consequences.would love to learn something hear thanks.
Click to expand...

Best thing to do is show you a good picture. I retrieved this from another forum I am a member on but never post. I use it for technical info. This is the correct adjustment procedure for the line pressure at the valve body. Don't let it intimidate you. It is very simple. If you can change the fluid and filter, you CAN do this. Most of the time when I have had trouble getting the shifts right with the external linkage adjustment, the inside adjustment at the valve body is almost always out of whack. Here's how to adjust it.

The approximate adjustment is 1-5/16", measured from valve body to inner edge of adjusting nut.

However, due to manufacturing tolerances the adjustment can be varied to obtain specified line pressure...
The adjusting screw may be turned with an Allen wrench.
One complete turn of the adjusting screw changes CLOSED THROTTLE LINE PRESSURE approximately 1-2/3 PSI per revolution.
Turning adjusting screw COUNTER-Clockwise increases pressure,
While turning Clockwise Decreases pressure.
 

Attachments

thanks Rusty. I hope this adjustment works with Lokar the same as with the rod. I started to do this last night and found out that the Lokar cable bracket on the carb would not work along with the throttle bracket that is currently on there for the throttle so I had to buy the Lokar throttle cable that works along with the kickdown cable. I is supposed to be here this morning. hopefully I can get both of these on and adjusted today before the trip to Indiana tomorrow. I guess if not I can shift it manually one more day. thanks for the help. Bill
 
You're certainly welcome. It does work the same. I always like mine kept so the lever is all the way back when the throttle is all the way open. I prefer later shifts, because that keeps the engine in the power band......since nothing I've had Mopar wise has ever been stock. Still though, some may not like them shifting that late and that's cool too. Like I said earlier.....just make sure it doesn't shift too soon and you'll be good. Two things will kill one that shifts too soon. 1) There's not enough throttle pressure holding the clutch packs together and 2) There's a LOT of leverage on the 2nd and 3rd gear clutches if they get into gear too soon. That extra leverage AND low throttle pressure together will cause the clutch packs to slip and high gear will burn up first, followed by 2nd. That's why I laugh at Chevy guys when they buy a Mopar. The first thing they do is remove the kickdown linkage altogether and throw it in the ditch.
 
I ordered the Lokar throttle cable to run with the kickdown cable in the same bracket and Jegs didn't get it out last night in time so FedEx is now showing a Sat. delivery on the part. we are heading to Indiana to a car show tomorrow morning so I guess if I shift this thing manually it wouldn't hurt would it. would kinda be doing the same thing as the kickdown wouldn't it. I just live about 5 miles from the FedEx hub and I may be able to stop by and pick it up. not sure yet.
 
Just wondering where I could get the carb bracket described in the Bouchallon Performance installation instructions. The one that you hacksaw in half and use the flat part in the six pack center two barrel. I called them and asked if I could buy just the bracket and they wanted me to buy their whole linkage. I already have the Lokar linkage installed and I made a plate that works but that one would look much better. I was sort of let down by that, as I spent a lot of money with BPE when I bought 440 brackets, pulleys, and power steering pump and some other parts. Any input? Btw, sorry for the hijack but there is a wealth of knowledge in this thread!
 
trudysduster said:
I ordered the Lokar throttle cable to run with the kickdown cable in the same bracket and Jegs didn't get it out last night in time so FedEx is now showing a Sat. delivery on the part. we are heading to Indiana to a car show tomorrow morning so I guess if I shift this thing manually it wouldn't hurt would it. would kinda be doing the same thing as the kickdown wouldn't it. I just live about 5 miles from the FedEx hub and I may be able to stop by and pick it up. not sure yet.
Click to expand...

Shifting manually does not do the same thing. It does not increase the line pressure. It merely delays the shift.
 

ms2420 said:
Just wondering where I could get the carb bracket described in the Bouchallon Performance installation instructions. The one that you hacksaw in half and use the flat part in the six pack center two barrel. I called them and asked if I could buy just the bracket and they wanted me to buy their whole linkage. I already have the Lokar linkage installed and I made a plate that works but that one would look much better. I was sort of let down by that, as I spent a lot of money with BPE when I bought 440 brackets, pulleys, and power steering pump and some other parts. Any input? Btw, sorry for the hijack but there is a wealth of knowledge in this thread!
Click to expand...

Call them back and emphatically remind them of that fact. Tell them that 30K people on one forum want to know the outcome of your situation so that we will know who gives good customer service.....or not. It's not like you're asking for something for free. I find it ridiculous that they will not sell just one small piece. If that's really the case and they stand by it, then I will never do business with them again. That's extremely poor customer service if I ever heard it.
 
they should be able to sell just the bracket. if you can get a part # from them for the bracket, google it and maybe someone else has it or maybe try ebay. maybe someone else in the world had no use for one and is selling one. just a thought.
 
Rusty, I guess I will have to just be careful with it tomorrow. FedEx will not have that piece here till tomorrow sometime. Thanks for the info.
 
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