Transmission Fluid

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If you want to see something get hot and abused. Watch a powerglide on the transbrake. They say the temp goes up 100 degrees per second and according to my RacePak readout I believe them.
 
I ran type F for years but it seems to be about 8 bucks a qt. and I thought it was kind of pricey. And the last stuff I got at O rilleys did smell burnt out of the bottles. I,ve got a hi stall conv. and I don't mind paying a little extra for it but price/price from type f to a synthetic just wondering what anyone might have found.
 
As long as you run a GOOD transmission cooler, IMO fluid type is almost irrelevant. Almost.
 
I’ve run Oreilys brand (I speculate made by Warren) it went in red. Good stuff, like all the other lowest priced fluids out there. It did what it was supposed to, never any issues while flogging it on the street and drag racing, came out red as the day it went in, no change In smell or appearance when doing a converter swap and inspection of my built 727 it was in. Filter clean no debris, no clutch wear. Nothing. Zip zero nada. Perfect. Clean.
 
Assuming for racing and not driven on the street, i have always run hydraulic fluid from Tractor Supply. About $30 for a 2.5 gallon jug as I recall. I've never seen my Trans temp gage over about 190 going back to the pits after a pass. 727 torqueflite.
 
I like the guys that used to pay good money for BLUE type F. Lol

2586212E-E4B8-466F-836C-451BF4C958DB.jpeg
 
I have LAT atf in mine currently but it is pricey. Was thinking of swapping out to hydraulic oil, should also work good on the street too wouldnt it?
 
RustyRatRod said:
The three speed Torqueflites will run on literally just about anything. From motor oil to hydraulic tractor fluid. They ain't picky. I just roll my eyes at some of the stuff people latch on to. But hey, to each their own.
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:thumbsup: type F and a qt 10/30 oil in my flites.
Old max wedge racer turned me on to his formula.
 
This is some interesting stuff I'll admit. But, not a chance in hell that I'd pour that in my transmission. Good quality transmission fluid recommended by Mopar and a respected transmission builder............ATF +4 is good enough for me!
 
Matts440 said:
I have LAT atf in mine currently but it is pricey. Was thinking of swapping out to hydraulic oil, should also work good on the street too wouldnt it?
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I've only used it for racing, but I would think less friction = less heat, and it will make your shifts more firm.
 
pittsburghracer said:
If you want to see something get hot and abused. Watch a powerglide on the transbrake. They say the temp goes up 100 degrees per second and according to my RacePak readout I believe them.
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I re-read this today and I should have said the temperature will go up 100 degrees a second while the car is floored on the transbrake.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I re-read this today and I should have said the temperature will go up 100 degrees a second while the car is floored on the transbrake.
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LOL…I knew what you meant. Have you averaged how long you are on the brake across a race weekend for a full tree??

That would be Interesting.
 
Rat Bastid said:
LOL…I knew what you meant. Have you averaged how long you are on the brake across a race weekend for a full tree??

That would be Interesting.
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No I haven’t but being a top bulb racer as soon as I see a flicker I’m on the floorboard. Thank God we don’t race with a 5 bulb tree anymore. I have my cooler spaced and mounted in front of my radiator which has two sealed fans on it. I have my rpm limit set at 4200-4400 while on the brake on a 5780 stall converter. It cools off pretty fast. My buddy sells a pump system that will cool your fluid while the car is shut of but I actually have a system that I had on a carivan when I towed it behind my motorhome but never installed it.
 
i am trying tractor fluid in my 904 this time. i got it on sale at the time pretty cheep. here is some info i found. but take it with a grain of salt.

Below are quotes from another board where Lonnie Diers of Extreme Automatics in Ohio and Bruce Toelle of PTS Xtreme transmissions in California speak of tractor fluid benefits:

The Mobilube 424 has a Hi shear film strength so it provides better protection and lubrication for your hard parts (bearings bushings planets) Hi film strength helps the clutches to hold heavy loads at hi temps with out breaking the oil film. With out the oil film its is certain death for a clutch pack. Also higher viscosity and a higher flash point. This helps the fluid to stay stable at hi temps and it will also dissapate heat easier. The Hi torque fluids are made to operate in wet clutch transmissions that cost thousands of dollars. Much higher quality standards than what we see in typical automotive transmission fluids. This is not mirical fluid for a trans that does not operate correctly make no mistake about that. its not the only good fluid out there for an auto trans. Bottom line is your transmission will run cooler, clutches will hold hi loads, Bearings and bushings will have the maximum protection and line pressure will be stable at most any temp And this fluid will not burn like Dextron or Type F.

Where do you find 424. Go to the mobil web sight and look for distributors. There are other brands that work just as well as 424 this is the one that I have used. Maybe Bruce can post some of the other brands.

Lonnie Diers
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440 Mike said:
I recently opened up a 1967 torqueflite core, remnants of a amber colored fluid. Looked good, nice condition, thinking some kind of hydraulic fluid.
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All very true. And no matter WHAT, you cannot tell some of these guys anything. They have it stuck in their minds to use ATF+4, LGBTQ+ or whatever else the newest fangled high priced fluid is. The fact is, some of the hydraulic fluids have better cooling properties than any transmission fluid. .......and the guy who disagreed with my post about the Trick Shift is one. Disagreed that Trick Shift is type F when it says so right on the label. Hopefully that was a fat finger......if not, I'll just stop right here. LOL
 
mopar65 said:
i am trying tractor fluid in my 904 this time. i got it on sale at the time pretty cheep. here is some info i found. but take it with a grain of salt.

Below are quotes from another board where Lonnie Diers of Extreme Automatics in Ohio and Bruce Toelle of PTS Xtreme transmissions in California speak of tractor fluid benefits:
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I don't think you'll have not one narry a problem.
 
I use the red stuff…. and that happens to be +4 as it’s in bulk at work
 
i run the cheapest i can find and what ever is the latest that is dextron III compatible.

if you need type F for firmer shifts then your trans isn't built right. it's not 1970 anymore. :)
 
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I’m working on a 727 now. Looks like there’s atf-4 in when I removed the pan but when I dropped the vb it looked way different. Nice and dark but not burnt probably Dex 2 or 3. I just purchased truck not running because stuck in first gear. He changed radiator so i
guessing he added something different then what was originally in. My question is do I need to flush transmission out with one type fluid or can I just add to whatever is in with it now? Approximately 5-6 quarts is what I lost after pan and vb was removed.
 
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