Im doing a LA 360 oil pan gasket. That rear seal...
Looks like a bear. Anybody has a tip or trick to getter done once and right?
Looks like a bear. Anybody has a tip or trick to getter done once and right?
Trick/tip, in car oil pan rear gasket install?
- Thread starter rumblefish360
- Start date
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Yep, pull the engine.
Only way IMO to do it right. BUT there are other ways to get er done.
'67 Cuda, 904
Is there a "sticky" sealer?
It remember some years ago a friend that worked in a shop had some yellow sealent that would act like a glue.
Super tackey
It remember some years ago a friend that worked in a shop had some yellow sealent that would act like a glue.
Super tackey
Trim and detail adhesive. Spent many years using that or contact cement to hold gaskets in place. But only one one side.
Moparman1806
Well-Known Member
3M super weatherstrip adhesive
Not the whole seal area though right?
Good for high heat and Oil resistance?
Available in Auto parts store easy enough.
Moparman1806
Well-Known Member
No, just the block side to hold rubber seal in place. Make sure surface is really clean
pishta
I know I'm right....
you can pull in a 455 Olds rope seal with a sneaky pete. IIRC you can get a regular hard seal in there too without pulling the crank: use a punch on one end and tap it around the crank and the old one will rotate out, grab it and turn the crank. The new one can be rolled in too. Did it 10+ years ago so I may be wrong, I may have loosened all the main caps to do this...?
dibbons
Well-Known Member
My mechanic nephew just replaced my 318 pan gasket and rear main seal in car. Rear pan rubber seal slipped out of place and we had a major leak. I said the heck with it and pulled the motor, now it is sealed up properly. My thread:
Oil leak detection using smoke and mirrors
Oil leak detection using smoke and mirrors
Inertia
Well-Known Member
....
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Even though there are little square recesses at the ends of the main cap to sort of hold that seal the weather strip adhesive works great.
A thin bead all the way across the block side of the seal and then press it into place.
Pull it right back off and give it 3 min or so to tack up (get sticky)
Press it back into place and continue on with your pan install.
I like a film of RTV on the pan side of the seal right before the pan goes on.
It lets the pan slide around a little without disrupting the seal placement as well as gives seepage insurance.
The weather strip adhesive works good for the cork rail seals using the same method.
(Pull a motor to replace that seal?) not a chance in hell.
A thin bead all the way across the block side of the seal and then press it into place.
Pull it right back off and give it 3 min or so to tack up (get sticky)
Press it back into place and continue on with your pan install.
I like a film of RTV on the pan side of the seal right before the pan goes on.
It lets the pan slide around a little without disrupting the seal placement as well as gives seepage insurance.
The weather strip adhesive works good for the cork rail seals using the same method.
(Pull a motor to replace that seal?) not a chance in hell.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Pulling a motor (in my case a 318 in a '72 Bbody) only takes about four hours for me, and that's taking my time with simple hand tools. More than worth the "effort" to stop an oil leak that could potentially burn up the motor. Sounds like a big deal, but i've spent more time trying to change spark plugs on a friend's Pontiac Firebird.
Really not that big a deal to pull a motor/engine in our A bodies. Problems start while it is out, grand plans arise to "make it faster". Then the problems arise and engine never gets back in.
Well, the honey bunny got in on the action cleaning the pan up. It was great working with her again.
I found some 3M yellow adhesive and some JB Weld sealent to try. We started out on my overcrowded bench and set forth to work, er, um, play...
The yellow 3M was excellent in sticking to the gasket and holding it up. A basic Mr. gasket oil pan seal was used. The 15ft.lbs. torque spec started to split the side gaskets before the torque wrench clicked. Very annoying! The end seals acted fine.
Tomorrow! Oil and leak test. Plenty on my plate to do. I won't get the car down on all 4's IMO but I'll try. Thanks for all the replies guys!
I found some 3M yellow adhesive and some JB Weld sealent to try. We started out on my overcrowded bench and set forth to work, er, um, play...
The yellow 3M was excellent in sticking to the gasket and holding it up. A basic Mr. gasket oil pan seal was used. The 15ft.lbs. torque spec started to split the side gaskets before the torque wrench clicked. Very annoying! The end seals acted fine.
Tomorrow! Oil and leak test. Plenty on my plate to do. I won't get the car down on all 4's IMO but I'll try. Thanks for all the replies guys!
dibbons
Well-Known Member
I agree there is something very strange going on when torquing the oil pan bolts. The "click" type type torque wrench I had never would click before the gasket started to squeeze itself out of place. I still don't know what was going on back then. I just tighten the bolts up snug by hand since then.
That's what I did with the rest of the bolts. Snuggled up and stopped as the red sealent started to squeeze out.
I went back to where the gasket split and squeezed out and gooped on a bunch more in order to try and cover anything not sealed. Crossing fingers.
If it leaks, the car is still up in the air.
Second time around (heaven forbid!)
Will be easier. Quicker.
(Please GOD, don't let it leak!)
LMAO
I went back to where the gasket split and squeezed out and gooped on a bunch more in order to try and cover anything not sealed. Crossing fingers.
If it leaks, the car is still up in the air.
Second time around (heaven forbid!)
Will be easier. Quicker.
(Please GOD, don't let it leak!)
LMAO
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