for the rough alignment
Tried to get an alignment done
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remytherat
Well-Known Member
As someone without specialized equipment and who doesn't care that much, my procedure is the following:
Use offset bushings
Start with front all the way out and back all the way in
Set toe kind of close (within an inch)
Get camber in spec by moving only one adjuster on each side (this will ensure maximum caster)
Set final toe spec
Roughly check caster with a level to make sure it's at least in the positives.
Drive and see.
Use offset bushings
Start with front all the way out and back all the way in
Set toe kind of close (within an inch)
Get camber in spec by moving only one adjuster on each side (this will ensure maximum caster)
Set final toe spec
Roughly check caster with a level to make sure it's at least in the positives.
Drive and see.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
That's exactly how i did it, i did the front adjuster all the way out though and used the rear to set camber so i could have as much caster as possible
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I use kitchen floor vinyl tiles, using Mazola or similar between, - easy to clean, easy to store.
Cheers
Icetech
Well-Known Member
will try that
I did something similar - cut some 1 x 1 sheet metal pieces and put grease between them. I haven't given them a good try yet but will this winter.
remytherat
Well-Known Member
Yeah it works well and super low effort
This was a huge score for me. It works great
Yep, or 4 cut pieces of Lexan/polycarbonate, a shot of cooking spray between....
I used sand. No mess, compared to grease, etc.
I haven't but was going to, until I scored some commercial alignment stuff with electronic boxes mounted to the wheel clamps. They turned out to be easily removed, allowing my to slap my old caster / camber gauge right on
I would not over think. How many times, really, will you use them, how about this?
Buy something like a 1/3 rectangular tube long enough to trim down and sit nice on the outer rim. How to fasten? If spokers or slots, just run some bungee elaslics in through the slots. If they are solid wheels, maybe buy a couple of nuts that fit the wheel studs. Remove two nuts if necessary, and after welding a washer, etc, to the side of the nuts, screw them onto a pair of opposite studs, and hook the bungees on from there.
You do want to rotate the tire and recheck level to make certain the wheel is not bent, etc. You might want to temp. tighten up the wheel bearings.
You can also google search them and get ideas from what you see.
I would not over think. How many times, really, will you use them, how about this?
Buy something like a 1/3 rectangular tube long enough to trim down and sit nice on the outer rim. How to fasten? If spokers or slots, just run some bungee elaslics in through the slots. If they are solid wheels, maybe buy a couple of nuts that fit the wheel studs. Remove two nuts if necessary, and after welding a washer, etc, to the side of the nuts, screw them onto a pair of opposite studs, and hook the bungees on from there.
You do want to rotate the tire and recheck level to make certain the wheel is not bent, etc. You might want to temp. tighten up the wheel bearings.
You can also google search them and get ideas from what you see.
Long, woodworking clamps might work as well. Add a plate for the magnet
MoparLeo
NRA BENEFACTOR LEVEL LIFE MEMBER
Letting go of the steering wheel and it "goes straight" Means almost nothing if you think that means the alignment is good.
The type of alignment done depends on the type of suspension you are working with.
Most modern vehicle have different variants of a "strut" type suspension.
There is no upper control arm on most non performance cars.
Camber angle is built into the strut so there is generally no adjustment possible without aftermarket alignment parts.
Setting the toe is all than can be done. And you center the wheel before you set the toe, contrary to what someone said here.
Alignments are not usually the tech fault.
The cars that come in have non stock tire/wheel sizes and offset. Altered front and rear ride height, and wheel track.The factory designed it one way. They provide the specifications and procedures to set the alignment to the factory engineered spec. Once you change something, you are now just guessing or using some-ones opinion to adjust the vehicle.
Read the Factory Service Manual procedure to prepare for an alignment.
The type of alignment done depends on the type of suspension you are working with.
Most modern vehicle have different variants of a "strut" type suspension.
There is no upper control arm on most non performance cars.
Camber angle is built into the strut so there is generally no adjustment possible without aftermarket alignment parts.
Setting the toe is all than can be done. And you center the wheel before you set the toe, contrary to what someone said here.
Alignments are not usually the tech fault.
The cars that come in have non stock tire/wheel sizes and offset. Altered front and rear ride height, and wheel track.The factory designed it one way. They provide the specifications and procedures to set the alignment to the factory engineered spec. Once you change something, you are now just guessing or using some-ones opinion to adjust the vehicle.
Read the Factory Service Manual procedure to prepare for an alignment.
Another option for negative camber is to use washers between the lower ball joint and the spindle to get camber angle while leaving the caster adjustments maxed out. However, you want to use a hardened washer and you need to be conservative with the thickness of these. It typically will only require something .030" to get a fractional degree of camber.
I bought 2 small white cutting boards (HDPE) from the dollar store, made a grease sandwich. Same principle as the other examples, different way to get there.
I like that idea, think I'll give it a shot next time.
I have used a folded over garbage bag as a slip plate.
Bought a couple used Hoffman wheel fixtures. I only needed one but the second was half price. I don't know if I absolutely needed them but it will make things easier I hope. I took the center reflectors off and found that the center block is aluminum so I had to make a brace. I'll put a digital angle finder on it too.
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Nope, they are the only ones.
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