Great looking start! While it is a 360 block, it has a 318 intake and carburetor on it. Get it running and warmed up and then run a compression test. Post back with the numbers.
Trying to figure out a plan of attack on my new toy
- Thread starter hotairgypsy
- Start date
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Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
It has an "electric assist" choke- you can tell by the wire coming from the choke well.
That's a 318 manifold and carburetor, don't know about the heads without casting numbers, valve sizes or at least a pic of the exhaust ports (318s smaller than 360s).
Git 'er runnin' first, then decide on your next steps.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
The carb looks similar to a BBD although th enumbe doesn't match the ones in the '73 Dodge Chassis manual
This shows how the vacuum connections should be done. If the car had OSAC its now gone, and that's no loss. Connect the distributor vacuum advance directly to that port. That hose may currently be connected to the 'Air cleaner' vacuum port. That may be OK. No way to know until later. Regardless, Unused ports must be capped.
The wire to the choke is for an electric assist. This saves a bit fuel during the warm up process. Important thing is to get that wire covered so it doesn't ground. It may or may not be protected with a fuse. Even if it is fused, that fuse protects other things too.
The bowl vent is probably a secondary vent used to collect vaports when the engine is off. Not super critical if that's what it was, but it can't just be open. It has to be inside the air cleaner, capped, or connected to the vapor collection system. Otherwise it will suck dirt into the fuel bowl. That dirt can then clog the carb passages while running.
On the driver side of the engine is the starter relay. It also serves as a junction for battery power going to the inside of the car.
Unlike a house, many things are not fused. In fact the fuse box is not the main distribution point.
The main distribution of power comes is at a welded splice joining the alternator output and the battery.
Point is that make sure the wiring connections are good, and pay attention to the gages. Pegging gages is bad!!
This shows how the vacuum connections should be done. If the car had OSAC its now gone, and that's no loss. Connect the distributor vacuum advance directly to that port. That hose may currently be connected to the 'Air cleaner' vacuum port. That may be OK. No way to know until later. Regardless, Unused ports must be capped.
The wire to the choke is for an electric assist. This saves a bit fuel during the warm up process. Important thing is to get that wire covered so it doesn't ground. It may or may not be protected with a fuse. Even if it is fused, that fuse protects other things too.
The bowl vent is probably a secondary vent used to collect vaports when the engine is off. Not super critical if that's what it was, but it can't just be open. It has to be inside the air cleaner, capped, or connected to the vapor collection system. Otherwise it will suck dirt into the fuel bowl. That dirt can then clog the carb passages while running.
On the driver side of the engine is the starter relay. It also serves as a junction for battery power going to the inside of the car.
Unlike a house, many things are not fused. In fact the fuse box is not the main distribution point.
The main distribution of power comes is at a welded splice joining the alternator output and the battery.
Point is that make sure the wiring connections are good, and pay attention to the gages. Pegging gages is bad!!
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
The air cleaner may have vacuum actuated 'doors'.
I was going to "guess" just this
Wander over to MyMopar and you can download (2 volumes) a factory service manual for free. Chassis, and body manual
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
here are some good resources from Chrysler
Index and Html format
Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics
MyMopar has the same in pdf formats but not as a good of an index
It also has a many digitized service manuals.
Those are worth having. You can both buy paper and better digitized versions but those will get you started.
The master tech series covers everything from carburetor fundemental concepts to specific issues with emissions controls, and much much more.
There's a little bit of background on 1973 wiring here
Index and Html format
Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics
MyMopar has the same in pdf formats but not as a good of an index
It also has a many digitized service manuals.
Those are worth having. You can both buy paper and better digitized versions but those will get you started.
The master tech series covers everything from carburetor fundemental concepts to specific issues with emissions controls, and much much more.
There's a little bit of background on 1973 wiring here
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
I don't think you want to outright "cap" the bowl vent- earlier versions of the carb vented to atmosphere; the hose fitting was added for emissions clean up. It will work fine with it open, but like you say, you don't want dirt getting in there, so maybe a piece of mesh or filter paper over the end of the fitting and held in place with a short piece of hose...?
But capping it completely could play havoc with your fuel level in the bowl.
hotairgypsy
Well-Known Member
it has an edelbrock air cleaner....i recognize the circled item but do not recall the name...i know the vac hose is deteriorated off
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
EGR valve.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
I *think* that port is on the outside of the air cleaner and went to the vapor collection system. So there still should be an vent inside the air cleaner housing for running. If not, then it is critical to have it open and I agree a filter over it would be a good idea.
hotairgypsy
Well-Known Member
the battery is in the trunk...is this normal for this car? would it be an issue to be there?
If the engine has good compression and oil pressure and you only want to have fun with it, I'd put a edelbrock performer intake with a 650 carburetor, headers and good flowing exhaust system, 3.55 gears. Torque cam. Curve kit and you'll have a fun car. By the way, it's a nice car.
Nice car! Like aid, get it running and see whats what. Then make a plan.
furrystump
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Makes sure it stops first. Go over the entire brake system. What does the brake fluid look like. What do the brake lines look like? Not as glamorous as getting it running, but stopping is important. You WILL want to drive it once it runs. Make it stop first.
hotairgypsy
Well-Known Member
this car is just to have fun in...i have no intention in racing it...too crazy out there to think about doing that...i did my time at the track in the past...i love your plan of attack...i am going to try and read the numbers on the pass side of the block today to see if i can further identify the year so i know what i have...also gonna see if i can identify the heads...see if they are 318 or 360 heads....hoping they did a long block when it was swapped...thanks for the comp...when i saw this car for sale online it talked to me...something about it said must come home with me...hoping it has a good engine but if not i will drop another engine in it and go have my fun...
hotairgypsy
Well-Known Member
That is something that is very important to me and am planning on going thru it very carefully...i know ya still gotta stop this ol girl...glad to see it has a power brake booster and i saw it has front disc brakes...once i get it running ill have a better sense on how good it works...The kid i bought the car from didnt know where the wheel lock key was so gonna have fun getting all the lugs off but that is minor...already have a plan of attack for that....I am not planning on building a beast...i just want what is in the car to be happy...leads to dependability...i figure if it has 318 heads then i am will source some 360 heads and get everything proper...all matching...we shall see
hotairgypsy
Well-Known Member
is the holley 4150 the carb of choice for this...trying to figure out the part number so i know what i am looking for..thanks
PRH
Well-Known Member
I’d probably pop a valve cover off to get the casting number off the heads........ so you know what you’re really working with.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
I'd start by seeing if the engine is good or bad. Will it start and doesn't everything work good enough to see if you can bring it up to operating temperature with a oil pressure gauge on it? One of my concerns would be how they did the 318 to 360 swap. What transmission is in the car and did they install a 360 matching convertor, or maybe a B&M 360 flex plate? Does it have a 360 balancer? The pulleys and belts are set up all wrong. They probably tried to remove the A/C stuff and still use the A/C pulleys and brackets as a non-A/C setup. Doesn't work right doing that. You need all non-A/C parts there to make it right. Usually, the alternator belt runs off the crank and water pump, and the P/S goes straight to the crank pulley on a non-A/C car. Is the long block all 360 with 318 parts from the original engine added? If 360 heads, that's a bit of a mismatch on the intake. It'll work, just not optimally. The carb is a 318 2bbl Carter BBD made for smog use. The carb number you posted is probably a casting number. Those carbs didn't have an I.D. number stamped into the carb itself. It just had an aluminum I.D. tag under one of the top screws. If it's missing, not way to tell exactly what it came off of. Probably the original one from the 318, but, no way to know for sure. With headers and a nod toward getting some street performance, I'd swap in a 4bbl aluminum intake that matches the head ports, and a 650 CFM carb. 318 heads on a 360 is not a problem on a street car. The valves and ports are a bit smaller, but, if you're not trying for max performance, they will work fine. Once you get the year code and/or casting/stamping numbers off the major engine parts, you know what year to use in ordering parts. What you do with the heater suitcase is up to you! 
Looks like the whole thing is missing. I'd get another one just to get the heater and defroster to work even if you don't want to get the A/C working again. Once you find out what you have in the engine, you can decide if it matches the rest of the car and if it's what you want for a street machine. Oh, and on a street car, I would hook up the vacuum advance to the carb correctly. the hose from the vacuum advance can on the distributor needs to attach to the capped port next to the choke rod.
Looks like the whole thing is missing. I'd get another one just to get the heater and defroster to work even if you don't want to get the A/C working again. Once you find out what you have in the engine, you can decide if it matches the rest of the car and if it's what you want for a street machine. Oh, and on a street car, I would hook up the vacuum advance to the carb correctly. the hose from the vacuum advance can on the distributor needs to attach to the capped port next to the choke rod.
hotairgypsy
Well-Known Member
i popped off a valve cover and saw 2 dif sets of numbers..
360
4071051
so i assume since it is stamped 360 they are heads from a 360...probably did a long block...someone earlier stated it had a 318 intake and a 318 carb...is that good or bad knowing the long block is a 360
Coming back someone's engine build that you don't know is like Forrest and is friggin box of chocolates!!
hotairgypsy
Well-Known Member
have been using the part number to search here and the web...just reporting my findings ...still working towards trying to start the car...doing all the normal checks before attempting it
cudamark
Well-Known Member
I don't see any 360 stamping, but, it appears to have 360 cast in the head. The actual 7 digit casting number along with the date code casting, will narrow it down a lot more as to what you have head-wise. Looks like it's probably late 70's and pretty clean inside, so, that is optimistic. The 318 intake and carb would be better for mileage rather than performance. Kind of a waste using headers with that setup.
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