Tubular Lower Control Arm Thread

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are the lower control arms and strut rods still pivoting at the same position? it looks like the adapter on the k-member end of the strut rod would push the pivot back and cause binding? any video of cycling the suspension without the coilover spring?

bonus idea: couldn't you build brackets off the k-member to put the lower control arm mounts in double shear and eliminate the strut rod
 
Ok--Here is a question--Just brought the duster home to start pulling the motor to put in the STROKER,Car is a 70 Duster--Looking at my front suspension and the upper and lower control arms,There is a support for the shock mount looks pretty rigid,SO what you guy's are telling me if I go with a coil over lower control arm that baddart is selling here for the stock k-member I still have to reinforce the upper shock mount???? this support comes of the upper control mount and goes up to where the shock mounts???? Thanks Keep up the good work baddart!!!!!!! Steve
 
j.mcconnell said:
are the lower control arms and strut rods still pivoting at the same position? it looks like the adapter on the k-member end of the strut rod would push the pivot back and cause binding? any video of cycling the suspension without the coilover spring?

bonus idea: couldn't you build brackets off the k-member to put the lower control arm mounts in double shear and eliminate the strut rod
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I hear what you are saying and this has been discussed earlier in the thread. The arm pivot and strut rod are both on the same plane, and there is no binding. I agree that if there were more travel in the front suspension there there would be binding, but because of the limited travel even in the factory setup there is none.

Purplehaze is correct, there is a video with the suspension cycling. I would not eliminate the strut rod, the factory pieces only weigh 3 lbs each and benefits far outweigh the draw backs.
 
j.mcconnell said:
Video on page 8 has regular rubber strut rod bushings.
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I have cycled my mock up arm many times with an adjustable strut rod that that has no bushing and it is smooth. After I paint the inner fender and put the display together then I will make a video.
 
swifter said:
Ok--Here is a question--Just brought the duster home to start pulling the motor to put in the STROKER,Car is a 70 Duster--Looking at my front suspension and the upper and lower control arms,There is a support for the shock mount looks pretty rigid,SO what you guy's are telling me if I go with a coil over lower control arm that baddart is selling here for the stock k-member I still have to reinforce the upper shock mount???? this support comes of the upper control mount and goes up to where the shock mounts???? Thanks Keep up the good work baddart!!!!!!! Steve
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Steve the area that you are talking about was never intended to support the weight of the front of the car, so some sort of support needs to be welded in. The weight of the car is actually supported by the torsion bar cross member under the floor pan. Hope this helps.
 
j.mcconnell said:
Video on page 8 has regular rubber strut rod bushings.
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I think you are forgetting that there is a Hiem Joint used in conjunction with the solid bushings on the same end of the adjustable strut rods so the rod end pivots "freely", there is no bind at all.
 
yes, it is that solid busing (not in video on page 8) and the bracket that the heim is bolted too that moves the pivot point of the strut rod at least an inch from the original location. it was just something that I noticed that could create an issue. if he has cycled it without a problem then no big deal.
 
j.mcconnell said:
yes, it is that solid busing (not in video on page 8) and the bracket that the heim is bolted too that moves the pivot point of the strut rod at least an inch from the original location. it was just something that I noticed that could create an issue. if he has cycled it without a problem then no big deal.
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I will post a video tonight. :D
 
The strut rods do try to push the lower control arm back when the suspension is compressed. It makes an arc just like other suspension components. This is the same way they were from the factory. Not the best but it's the way it is.
 
Ok so does someone have these installed and have the shock/spring size figured out??? BADART---do you have the upper shock reinforcement all worked out??? If i missed it here SORRY ,i have my motor and k-frame out and I'm really considering going with these lowers and get rid of my torsion bars--Steve
 
swifter said:
Ok so does someone have these installed and have the shock/spring size figured out??? BADART---do you have the upper shock reinforcement all worked out??? If i missed it here SORRY ,i have my motor and k-frame out and I'm really considering going with these lowers and get rid of my torsion bars--Steve
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Yes and yes

Here are some recent pics. You have a couple of options reinforcing the inner fender and entire front end of the car. One is the J bar setup that now has a landing and a reinforcement plate that ties into the factory shock brace. The other is the coilover hoop that is now triangulated.

As far as coilover length goes, it's really up to you. With this setup I am using a Strange Engineering single adjustable S-5204 that has a stroke from 10"-13.85" with a 10" 400# spring. If you use these with the coilover adapters that I make you can safely be anywhere from factory ride height to 3/4" lower. Or you could go with a shorter coilover and have less travel.

Another option is weld some coilover tabs higher on the coilover hoop with a cross brace and go with a longer stroke shock.
 

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Mad Dart said:
Dang that paint looks good. Can't wait to see it with the powder coat and the shock assembly in there!!
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Thanks Louis. The pic was taken before I shot the clear today, it's not perfect, but looks decent. It's a huge pita spraying around all of that scaffolding. :D I had to remind myself that it's only an inner fender. The color is a metallic and is kind of an orange and copper color. I haven't seen it in the sun yet, but should get some attention.
 
Here are a couple of pics of paint color. I took these before I did a little touch up with an air brush to get in those hard to reach spots. I finally got a chance to roll it outside in the sun to look at it. It should get some attention. Tons of flake and I really like the color. It looks more orange outside.
 

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needsaresto said:
Nice! I missed the code/color but it looks fantastic!
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Paul it's just a Summit single stage color with clear shot over it. It's Bright Orange Metallic. The flake in it is silver, but also has kind of a copper tint to it. It was super easy to shoot compared to some of their other metallics. Great coverage on the first pass. Some of their other metallics are more translucent and will tiger stripe on you really easy if you aren't careful.

mopardude318 said:
dang! that looks so damn good!! NICE J-O-B!!!!
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Thanks James, I think this color will be going on the dart once the body work is all done.
 
Badart said:
Paul it's just a Summit single stage color with clear shot over it. It's Bright Orange Metallic. The flake in it is silver, but also has kind of a copper tint to it. It was super easy to shoot compared to some of their other metallics. Great coverage on the first pass. Some of their other metallics are more translucent and will tiger stripe on you really easy if you aren't careful.



Thanks James, I think this color will be going on the dart once the body work is all done.
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Thats the same color CHALLENGERGARY used on one of his cars. IT SHINES! in the sun.:glasses7:
 
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