Tubular Lower Control Arm Thread

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That's lookin fantastic, can't wait to see it with clear and all the suspension components installed.
 
I bet it looks just brilliant in the sun. I like that color! It's really nice,but I wont be using it. The original paint code for my Dart is T6? I think and it's tan poly or some such,but I do figure on some custom paint work using pearl and mettalic. Nothing too standoutish,I go for subtle.Maybe I like that color because of the copper tone in it. That's what the original paint color on my Dart is closest to.Copper.Or maybe bronze,lol. Different color,so it'll stand out!
 
I bet it looks just brilliant in the sun. I like that color! It's really nice,but I wont be using it. The original paint code for my Dart is T6? I think and it's tan poly or some such,but I do figure on some custom paint work using pearl and mettalic. Nothing too standoutish,I go for subtle.Maybe I like that color because of the copper tone in it. That's what the original paint color on my Dart is closest to.Copper.Or maybe bronze,lol. Different color,so it'll stand out!

It kind of looks like turbine bronze with some bling. LOL
 
Here is a pic that I have been meaning to post with the stock suspension at full droop (and this is with my upper control rubber bumper worn completely out). Notice the 2.5" of shock travel before the arm contacts the bump stop? I do realize the the wheel travel will be more, but we are talking about shock travel. So where are those of you saying that 4" of travel is not enough? :D:D:D:D
 

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Have you guys looked in to using a AFCO Racing 3850M or 3855M style coil-overs and get rid of the shock adapters?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AFC-3850M/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AFC-3855M/

I think that both of them are fairly close, but maybe a little too long for most applications. The second one is close, but most guys want to get a little drop in the front end that they can't do with the factory setup without riding on the bump stop. The only way this would work is by finding a bayonet style that is 11.25" compressed and under, because my adapter can be made 1.25" from eyelet to the base of the factory shock tower. I just don't think it would allow enough room for compression before hitting the bump stop in the coilover.
 
I will be getting my upper and lower control arms back from powder coating tomorrow and will be finally assembling everything tomorrow night and will have pics.

One more thing: I will be converting my 65 Barracuda over to coilovers the next couple of weeks, so be watching this thread for you early guys http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=173970 I am hoping to have it out on the road within a month.
 
I have afco 3850m so this tubular lower wont work with this setup? I know bondobob sells the 3850m with his kits.
 
I just said maybe a little to long for most applications. This would put you right at factory ride height if not a little higher. Most guys want their car to sit a little lower in the front. I'm sure they will work if a guy wanted to stay at factory ride height.
 
my car is lowered via t bars right now and have thought about converting over.. great work though havent been on here in a long time.
 
sorry but I dont know what stock ride height is lol! car is on jack stands right now and this pic is with the calvert fronts and the 165/80 tire... i havent had the car on its suspesion yet with the engine in on the afco's.

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thx my car is going thru changes right now as I have moved the rad setup in front of the core for more room and cooling. my k member has been modified for pan clearance and would like to keep the stock k but upgrade to tubular uppers and lowers eventually.
 
Beautiful Car Sledgehammer. Your car with that tire looks to sit about 1.5" Lower than stock right now. What is the set up in the rear?
 
here is a pic of the front hanging with the 3850m afco double! I did have to notch the mount cause the afco are bigger in diameter of the calverts and I didnt want the mount beating up the shock! with the car at that ride height in pic the lca bump stops were about 3/8 for touching if that helps any. also note I used a smaller uca bump stop to get the travel.

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Looks pretty good! I really wish I could've helped you out with that stuff but my turn around right now is simply awful -- got my back against the wall for probably the next couple of months.

Can't wait to see how it all mocks up though!
 
Got to weld on the bump stops and pick up some paint on Monday, hoping for Tues or Wed. Hey John, any plans on making some heim end tie rod assemblies? Just wondering cause those one's Hotchkis sell are like $320.
Another shot.
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Looks pretty good! I really wish I could've helped you out with that stuff but my turn around right now is simply awful -- got my back against the wall for probably the next couple of months.

Can't wait to see how it all mocks up though!

Yeah, I understand just bad timing I had to get it done yesterday, would have loved to have you do it.
 
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