Tubular Lower Control Arm Thread

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wow, you're amazing, excellent job. i'm wondering that since your using the strut bar why do you need the 90* tube?

Thanks for the kind words. I think the reason why I need the 90* tube is for added strength and support. If I decide to make these and sell them I want the piece of mind that they are not going to break. I figure between the extra tube and the welded in slug and a gusset, they won't come apart and should help with handling quite a bit.
 
Here is the weight savings so far. Of course I still have to add coilover tabs, and a gusset, but the that shouldn't add more than a pound. The die on the scale in the picture weights right at 20 lbs. I am thinking 9-10 lbs off the front end of the car is a good thing.

I can't wait to compare the weight of aluminum coilovers compared to torsion bars.
 

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I think I have a more elegant solution to your interference problem, while retaining the additional support you're looking for. Rather than use a single 90 degree bend, why don't you use two 45 degree bends. The first 45 would have the support run roughly parallel to the strut rod.

See the attached drawing below.

Feel free to critique the snot out of it.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 

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could you use a bigger tub and not put the 90?????dont the top ca take all the load and the bottom just take some???? just thinking out side the box here not bashing....... hope things work out for you...mike
 
I think I have a more elegant solution to your interference problem, while retaining the additional support you're looking for. Rather than use a single 90 degree bend, why don't you use two 45 degree bends. The first 45 would have the support run roughly parallel to the strut rod.

See the attached drawing below.

Feel free to critique the snot out of it.

Regards,

Joe Dokes

Joe Dokes great minds think alike. I bent this up earlier and I think I like it. This is the tightest 45* angles that my bender can do, but should work. Thanks
 

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Thanks everyone for the comments and suggestions. This is why I wanted to post a thread about this, to get advice and comments. This will work with the 2nd bar and 2 45* bends. I will be tight, but really strong. I will do the 45's tomorrow and post pics. I am stoked.
 
I just went and seen these tonight and I will say, the pics don't do them justice. These are so slick and look amazing. Great work John.
 
I can't wait to compare the weight of aluminum coilovers compared to torsion bars.

They look good. Torsion bars aren't unspring weight though. The coil overs, about half of the spring is going to be unsprung weight.
 
They look good. Torsion bars aren't unspring weight though. The coil overs, about half of the spring is going to be unsprung weight.

I know that. I was referring to the total weight removed from the car. I am just curious.
 
Looks great, was just wondering what will keep the cross shaft from rotating in the K-frame?
 
Looks great, was just wondering what will keep the cross shaft from rotating in the K-frame?

That is one of the minor modifications to the K frame. There is a steel bushing that gets slid in place where the factory bushing was located. From the side of the K frame through a hole it will get drilled and tapped for a set screw. Once the pivot shaft is slid in position the set screw will get tightened down and this will keep the shaft and bushing from spinning. The set screw will be hidden out of sight inside of the K frame. I hope this makes sense. This was my biggest headache while making this work.

The cool thing about these Lower control arms is that they can be installed with the engine and K member in the car. How is that for easy and down the road the car can be converted back to torsion bars with the factory LCA's. I have put quite a bit of thought into this project.
 
Where will the shock and coil over mount?

Once the prototypes are done and I am satisfied, they are getting shipped to Louis (Mad Dart) and he will do the mock up on his car with QA1 coilovers, tubular upper control arms and adjustable strut rod. He will then weld coilover mounting tabs on the arms as well as figure out some way to do a bump stop. It's a team effort.
 
Those are Beautiful! Let me know when you start selling em :glasses7:

Thanks. Hopefully if all goes well I should be selling them within a month. Pricing is going to depend on material costs as well as machining cost. I can do the machining, but just don't have the time.
 
Once the prototypes are done and I am satisfied, they are getting shipped to Louis (Mad Dart) and he will do the mock up on his car with QA1 coilovers, tubular upper control arms and adjustable strut rod. He will then weld coilover mounting tabs on the arms as well as figure out some way to do a bump stop. It's a team effort.

I am taking everything apart tonight and getting ready to install these LCA's. I just received the RMS Uppers and their Adjustable Strut Rods. I will order the shocks as soon as I figure out the ride height. I don't want to order the wrong size. Standard Coil over length is 16.5" Extended but with the 4 link in the rear, I want to lower the car a bit so the shock may need to be 1" or so shorter. We shall soon see.
 
That is one of the minor modifications to the K frame. There is a steel bushing that gets slid in place where the factory bushing was located. From the side of the K frame through a hole it will get drilled and tapped for a set screw. Once the pivot shaft is slid in position the set screw will get tightened down and this will keep the shaft and bushing from spinning. The set screw will be hidden out of sight inside of the K frame. I hope this makes sense. This was my biggest headache while making this work.

The cool thing about these Lower control arms is that they can be installed with the engine and K member in the car. How is that for easy and down the road the car can be converted back to torsion bars with the factory LCA's. I have put quite a bit of thought into this project.

Do you think set screws will be good enough? Can it be pinned rather than use set screws? Just seems like they may loosen over time and start slipping.
 
Do you think set screws will be good enough? Can it be pinned rather than use set screws? Just seems like they may loosen over time and start slipping.

I don't think that it will hold, but a guy could pin it or could counter sink the set screw a little and use blue loctite. That is what I plan on doing.
 
I was thinking on pinning it with an interference fit tool steel pin, not just a roll pin. But I also though of counter sinking the set screws too. I guess will have to see real world testing and long term use to know for sure.
 
Very nice work. Are you thinking of doing the 67 to 72 lower control arm with that style sway bar.
 
Winner Winner Chicken Dinner!!!!!!!!! Clears everything nicely.
 

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