Tunnel ram 440

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Ajp440 said:
No I have no idea when I bought the engine the heads were already done.
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I would check them, even though there new, they are stock, most stock BB springs (non-HP) were around 90 on the seat & 200 open pressure, way too weak to handle what you want, your going to need a spring around 120-125 on the seat & 280-300 open pressure.

72Scamp, thanks for the props, How is yours running? Are you running the .484 with stock compression?

This is my old duster with the Ram.
 

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That's badass. I like the hilborn scoop too. Is there a way to check them?
 
Ajp440 said:
That's badass. I like the hilborn scoop too. Is there a way to check them?
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I haven't own the car for a good 5 yrs., the new owner painted it & did a few things on the inside, he just recently installed a pair off 660 center squirters & loves em. I ran V stacs on it, he installed the hilborn, I made a good 250 passes in that car after building it, ran a best of 10.87 @ 123.58, that was on a very slow 1.62 60ft., & it was still a bit lean on the carbs but pulled like a mother on the big end., i sure miss that car.

You can get a spring tester, if i'm not mistaken they can be checked with the head on, are the heads bolted on yet??. It'll have a dial indicator & pressure gauge, you can check what it is "right off the seat" & at say .500 lift, then check to see how far it goes before the retainer hits the guide boss, You'll be fine with the stock guide boss height with less then .500 lift., but i would recammend installing the proper springs if those are stock replacement units, its not hard to do really.
 
Yeah the heads are all bolted down with arp head botls if I can check them with the head on that be awsome! Auto parts might rent the tool? I'll have to check, the hilborn looks sweet though i thought of some old school v stack would be bad too, this is my first Mopar I'm putting together so I'm pretty stocked that it's gonna be a big block A body, I'm thinking about trying the second comp cams choice cam u mentioned.
 
To be honest I've never degreed a cam I've always installed the dot to dot on the timing marks so that kinda worries me a bit, I know it can't be that hard to do with a degree wheel and if I study the concept enough but as far as that goes I've never done it.
 
Ajp440 said:
To be honest I've never degreed a cam I've always installed the dot to dot on the timing marks so that kinda worries me a bit, I know it can't be that hard to do with a degree wheel and if I study the concept enough but as far as that goes I've never done it.
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I'll confess i've never degreed one in either :lol:, But when it comes to comp cams, as long as you use a good quality name brand timing set, they are very close dot too dot, I had a comp cams tech tell me they check all the cams once ground to make sure there within specs, they shouldn't be off anymore then 1 deg. up or down, we checked this when i had mine set-up at the machine shop, It was there XE284H, I used a TRW true roller set & the cam came in "dot too dot" @ 105.5, so it was off 1/2 deg. from the 106, he called it good & buttoned it up, that cam ran a best of a 10.91 in my duster shifting at 5600, that was with at the time "stock ported" 906s with stock sized valves, 750dp & M1 single.
 
Ya I read somewhere that it was mainly to check that the cam was ground and had the key placed in the right spot on the camshaft, I think I am goin to go with comp cams I seen another guy run it straight up dot to dot in his 440 truck and it seemed to be right on the spot too. That time was with the 451 duster right?
 
Ajp440 said:
Ya I read somewhere that it was mainly to check that the cam was ground and had the key placed in the right spot on the camshaft, I think I am goin to go with comp cams I seen another guy run it straight up dot to dot in his 440 truck and it seemed to be right on the spot too. That time was with the 451 duster right?
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Yes it was, that was its 1st. cam, the 2nd. one i went solid, had comp custom grind me one from there 520/540 core.
 
What about the lunati 60302 voodoo cam kit. Do u think that grind would work? 262/268 475/494 112 lobe sep.
 
Ajp440 said:
What about the lunati 60302 voodoo cam kit. Do u think that grind would work? 262/268 475/494 112 lobe sep.
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I've heard the voodoo cams run good, so ya thast one looks decent but not crazy, You can change springs with the heads on, either fill the cylinders with air, or you can do the old rope trick.
 
I was looking at the engine today and I noticed there's no spot for a oil dipstick tube?? I have the 187 pan of a 383 on the 440 the one that was on the stock 440 pan had a 90 degree fitting tapped into it for the tube, is this something u came across with your 77 block too?
 
JoeDust451 said:
I would check them, even though there new, they are stock, most stock BB springs (non-HP) were around 90 on the seat & 200 open pressure, way too weak to handle what you want, your going to need a spring around 120-125 on the seat & 280-300 open pressure.

72Scamp, thanks for the props, How is yours running? Are you running the .484 with stock compression?

This is my old duster with the Ram.
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no no mine is still in the builder phase but im running this cam http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2560&gid=317 The .484 seems to be a popular cam but I want a more
 
Ok guys I just pulled the cam out of the engine it's a crower cam 250/254 423/444 baja beast cam should I throw it out, I'm guessing it's a rv style cam says it's for torque and pulling power.
 
Well I wasn't sure what it had in it, and it would have drove me crazy just to drop it in and not know what cam I had in it, I didn't want to drop it in then have to do a cam change cuz it was too big or
Small figured it be easier addressing it now that it's on the stand.
 
Ajp440 said:
Ok guys I just pulled the cam out of the engine it's a crower cam 250/254 423/444 baja beast cam should I throw it out, I'm guessing it's a rv style cam says it's for torque and pulling power.
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Is that 250/254 @50?
 
72ScampTramp said:
no no mine is still in the builder phase but im running this cam http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2560&gid=317 The .484 seems to be a popular cam but I want a more
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If that the .484 MP PS then yes its popular, but it needs at least 9.1 to run good, they have alot of dur. at 50, plus there ground on a 108, The MP cams are bad about being way off & needing degreed. in, To tell you the truth, I ran the .484 with around 10.1 compression, it ran decent, but all i did was drop in a .509 with no other changes & picked up .5 & 5 mph & the tranny wouldn't shift into 3rd. untill i let off, was on its last legs i guess, the .509 had alot more mid-top end pull over the .484, even down low it ran better.

But for his low compression & running a TR, i think he will be better off with a milder cam that supplys decent vacuum & good torque down low, nice & streetable, slight sound at idle, but will still pull good up to 55-5600.

Down the road if he decides on changing pistons, then he can drop in a more aggressive cam, adj. rockers, more stall & decent aluminum heads or do a nice bowl blend on the irons with a 30* backcut on the valves.
 
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