**Twin Turbo 67 Dart Project**

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Looks like your well on`your way so i dont know if this will help but ive built a few of these my self.I cut the flange off the header and flipped it so the headers went up and forward instead of down and back..Good luck ben
 
turbodart68 said:
Good job Louis, it looks right now. Lets see 10 pounds of sh&t in a 5 pound bag! 160lb injectors are huge but I have a feeling you are going to need all that fuel. Ramit, I would be careful running that big of an injector with two t04s. When the injector is that big it can be tough to get it to idle well. Low speed will be soggy too. I run a 96lb injector in my small block and have them at 80% at full boost at 7k.
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Thanks, I chose this injector cause there are great reviews of it running and idling great at low speeds. Plus I won't ever need to buy a bigger injector if I upgrade.
 
ben said:
Looks like your well on`your way so i dont know if this will help but ive built a few of these my self.I cut the flange off the header and flipped it so the headers went up and forward instead of down and back..Good luck ben
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What kind/brand of headers? Shorty's, long tube?
 
Well chittt, they sent me the wrong TPS again. The new one that is correct should be here early next week. Good thing I check the Ohm's at Closed and Wide open throttle. It is Bassssackkkwardsss again!! Could you imagine that problem at start up!!
 
Well all my parts are here to finish up the Fuel Injection. The intake finally got here, the injectors, fuel rails, all the an fittings, Mallory Boost referenced Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel pressure gauge etc.

I also got the NEW TPS and it tested the same as the others Wide Open 5+ ohms reading at Closed Throttle and .020 ohms Closed reading at Wide Open. So I did some research and learned that you can reverse the +5V wire and the ground to get it to send the correct signal. If you used the factory plug on the TPS to wire it up you would always be confused so I will be cutting off the factory plug and wiring in my own male and female plugs to fix this issue. Funny cause I researched TPS's for a long while but was not bright enough to google TPS wired backwards which helped me find the problem. I tested it on the bench this way and BAM it is good to go! :cheers:

I should hopefully start on the fuel rails etc tomorrow and start posting some more pictures. We will see!
 
Mad Dart said:
Well all my parts are here to finish up the Fuel Injection. The intake finally got here, the injectors, fuel rails, all the an fittings, Mallory Boost referenced Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel pressure gauge etc.

I also got the NEW TPS and it tested the same as the others Wide Open 5+ ohms reading at Closed Throttle and .020 ohms Closed reading at Wide Open. So I did some research and learned that you can reverse the +5V wire and the ground to get it to send the correct signal. If you used the factory plug on the TPS to wire it up you would always be confused so I will be cutting off the factory plug and wiring in my own male and female plugs to fix this issue. Funny cause I researched TPS's for a long while but was not bright enough to google TPS wired backwards which helped me find the problem. I tested it on the bench this way and BAM it is good to go! :cheers:

I should hopefully start on the fuel rails etc tomorrow and start posting some more pictures. We will see!
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instead of replacing the plug why dont you get a tool to remove the pins from the plug and just switch them. it will be alot nicer looking, and it will be cheaper. and you get a new tool out of the deal :)
 
03ramit1 said:
instead of replacing the plug why dont you get a tool to remove the pins from the plug and just switch them. it will be alot nicer looking, and it will be cheaper. and you get a new tool out of the deal :)
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That would be nice but the TPS is from an Infinity Q45 and I tried to find the other end of the plug with no luck and all the other sensors that are needed are GM style so I am going to order these for $7.70 that comes with 3 male and 3 female ends and will match all the other plugs ...........

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/weather-pack-position-2018-gauge-pack-p-461.html
 
I found some interesting reading on Injector Sizing

Sizing the Injectors:

In this step you're going to learn about Fuel Injectors and how to pick the appropriate size.
Your motor is going to flow a certain amount of air depending on the intake, cylinder size, boost pressure, RPM and other factors. The job of the injectors is to spray the correct amount of fuel into the motor for that air. To put is simply, the Injectors are just high speed electrically operated valves that open and close to regulate how much fuel is supplied to the motor. The ratio of open to close is known as the duty cycle. The longer the valve is open and the higher the fuel pressure, the more fuel is sprayed out the injector. In order to allow the injector to spray efficiently and to provide some leeway in tuning you should size the injectors so that at the maximum engine demand the injectors are within 45%-75% of their capacity. If the injector is too large, then at idle it will open and close so quickly that Idle will be poor and the engine will be hard to tune.

The flow rate of an Injector is usually rated in "Pounds of fuel it can flow in one hour at a fuel pressure of 45 PSI. The "Pounds of Fuel" rating system came about because to obtain the correct air/fuel ratio, one could calculate the volumetric efficiency of an engine, and then know what the total amount of air that would be going in, (in pounds), then all that needed to be done is add in the one part fuel (in pounds) to obtain the 14.7 air/fuel ratio.

The general rule of thumb is that it takes about .5 pounds of fuel to make 1 HP for a naturally aspirated motor and .6 pounds for a Turbo motor.

Example: Say we have a VW engine expected to make about 160 HP. That's 40 HP per cylinder so you would need at least a 20 pound/hour injector in each cylinder. But that's at 100% injector capacity. Since it's best to stay within 45%-75% of the injectors capacity you need to use a larger injector. In this example a 33 pound /hour injector from the table below will work.

If you're turbo or supercharged, you're better off staying on the low side of the duty cycle range (45%). Here's why: Under Turbo boost the fuel has to overcome the extra pressure in the intake manifold. Injectors are rated by using 45 pounds of fuel pressure (PSI), so this means that to maintain the same rated flow while under boost, the fuel pressure would have to be 45 PSI higher than the boost pressure. A fuel pressure that high would overburden the pump so what you want to do is use a larger injector that can flow more fuel at a lower fuel pressure. An injector operating at 45% of it's capacity should be a good starting point. In this case a 45 pound/hour injector will work and you could lower your fuel pressure to 25 PSI to get enough flow.
 
03ramit1 said:
man thats a great price on them i thought the ones that i found here http://www.mcmaster.com/#weather-pack-connectors/=a8tvnr were a good price but yours are cheaper. i just assumed that you had both connectors already. i geuss thats what i get for assuming.... :)


i like this kit http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/....html?osCsid=9f2e0a801735b01860430354b63190f2 ill have to order it when it comes time to rewireing my car.
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Man there's a lot of connectors in that kit!
 
Here are some pics of the new intake with the EFI Bungs. The measurements on Edelbrock's site are incorrect for this manifold. The Throttle Body Elbow will not work at all. It sticks WAY past the hood line.

I am so pissed that the elbow is going back to Summit and I will be fabbing up my own intake elbow so it will clear the hood for sure when I am done.

I am going to pick up an Aluminum Carb Spacer or some 1/2" aluminum stock and make one out of Sheet Aluminum or some round aluminum elbow material that I found. I already have the flange for the Throttle Body that came with it in the Box which is good at least................

I will need to order a few more AN Fittings to finish off the fuel rails. Those fit perfect and should work out well. I will be using a 45* fitting so the fuel pressure gauge will not interfere with the valve cover on the passenger side.

The TPS is finally mounted and I needed to drill and tap 3 holes to make it work. 2 in the aluminum mounting pad of the throttle body and 1 in the shaft to clock the TPS but at least it is done!

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64physhy said:
I bet Wade could fab up a good one for you.
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No Bet on that. Wade could easily do it in his sleep, no challenge for a Master Fabricator and Welder like him! If I end up making one, I will tack it together and have Wade weld it up............yes Wade I am talking about you!!:cheers:

I am swapping the one I got for the lower profile one today at summit. The only problem I see is it's 1.5" longer toward the radiator than the one I have now. It is 2" shorter though and at 95* instead of 90*, we will see...........

Old Elbow that won't work is here......... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-3849/

New Elbow is here........ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-3848/?rtype=7

I did order a 3/4" Billet carb flange/spacer also that I will use as a spacer in the future or for the new intake if needed.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4150...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 
Well the other elbow from Edelbrock will not work so I will be fabricating my own!!

All parts are purchased to build the elbow to include the Flange, 3/16 thick 6061 T6 Aluminum Alloy along with 3/8" NPT Bungs and 1/8" NPT Bungs that will be needed for sensors, meth nozzles and vacuum/boost lines.

I will document the whole process and post pics etc!
 
I made 2 different patterns for the new intake elbow.

All material is in transit as of today to get this built.

No I am not using a 4 hole spacer so don't give me grief. I was just using this to represent the 3/4 spacer that is on the way.

I will need to get a new filler neck that goes out 45* straight out of the manifold, or I will make one.



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I like this one better

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I called the supplier and just ordered a custom elbow with the correct flange, angle etc. $195.00 done deal. My time building it and then taking it in to get welded is worth every penny!

It will be based on what you see in these pictures. The base will have 4 more 1/8" NPT, 2 on each side so 7 ports total. This will keep the plenum looking clean with everything in the base. All the sensors for IAT, MAP, Electronic Boost Control and Blow off valve lines will be coming off the base.

It will be 4 3/4 tall from the bottom of the base to the highest point.

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glad to hear you found a solution mad dart. Im so excited to see this thing run. I think you have all of fabo wanting progress each day and some dyno vids asap!
 
Final assembly of the fuel rails and fuel lines! Mallory Boost Referenced Regulator, 10 an Feed 8 an Return and 6 an lines between the Fuel Rails. I am using a 100PSI Fuel Pressure Gauge. Still waiting of 2 AN Fittings to finalize the 8an Return line.

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