The 6900 would be a good option as well.
Upgraded 360 Cam?
- Thread starter CluelessMopar
- Start date
-
I would not bother with the heads since the cam listed and other suggested do not take advantage of the cylinder head at all. IMO, that would be a complete waste of mkney
The Summit K-50052 another good one.
Then I’d say not only are you mistaken but you need to look at what it takes not just for other brands but take a good look at a big block Buick or a Caddy.
And a BB Buick if done right is one bad mutha.
Sticking with a stock converter will limit your cars performance potential in a big way.
Yeah... If I were looking at Edelbrock heads some pistons for some decent compression as part of a fresh bottom end would be first on the list. As far as that goes... 80,000 mile motorhome engine. Get some compression test numbers. The cost of a set of Edelbrock heads would almost certainly be better invested in freshening the bottom end up with decent pistons with some compression height. It's a crapshoot on what kind of condition the cylinders are in, but motorhome engines typically have a lot of time not doing anything and collecting condensation, and then getting ran and on a long trip before the next oil change. It wouldn't surprise me if a ridge reamer had to be used to remove the pistons. And I say this because the '76 360 I have got used the exact same way and it will require a ridge reamer to get the pistons out of it.
Last edited:
Are you talking restoration or building an engine?
It's less expensive to build reliable horsepower Mopar engines.
Pay now with a Mopar or pay now and later with brand x
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
I was comparing mopars with the sbf and sbc the ones that are more popular and used by the car enthusiasts.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Im running a 702 luniti voodoo cam in my 360. Its stock minus the compression. Im running a stock equivalent converter. I would recommend the 700 or 701 with stock compression and stock heads. Be warned anything larger than factory you have to replace the springs and in some cases machine the guides for the extra lift. I had to with my 702 voodoo.
You keep standing on the sidelines watching and waiting and you’ll never get there. Whats the last performance/old classic you’ve owned if I may ask?? The cost is what it is. Costs less, costs more big whoop. I’ve never lamented the “cost to play” Its a hobby, you blow money and have fun. Money under the bridge......
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
It's a hobby and hobbies cost money. The last car I had was a 1973 dart swinger, I redid the interior and what the door panels alone cost me I could have done more on a mustang. The door panels were $650 for all four.You keep standing on the sidelines watching and waiting and you’ll never get there. Whats the last performance/old classic you’ve owned if I may ask?? The cost is what it is. Costs less, costs more big whoop. I’ve never lamented the “cost to play” Its a hobby, you blow money and have fun. Money under the bridge......
You mentioned a dual plane intake. Did you change intakes and how did the engine look inside? We may also need to know cylinder head casting numbers. There's some industrial/motorhome 360s with an 857 head casting that are 318 industrial heads with small ports and valves. But it may also have a set of 974 casting heads which can be made very good in their own right for the cost of a single Edelbrock head.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 24,919
- Reaction score
- 12,272
With the Eddies you can push the cylinder pressure to well past 180 psi.
That means you can probably run the stock 252 cam, stock convertor, and ANY rear gear you want.
So slam some KB107s on her, at whatever deck height, run a high-quality.028 gasket, bolt on the Eddies and go ripchit.
The 252*cam might make peak power at about 4600, but the Eddies will carry the power another 1000rpm.
With 3.55s; , 5600 is 46 in First/79 in Second /114 in Third; and 60 in Second is ~4200; so why stick a 6000 rpm cam into her? I mean you could with the ~10.7 Scr that the KB107/Eddies combo will get you; but why would you. it will not change your zero to 60 ET even one iota, unless you cure the traction issues. The 252 cam will spin the street tires at WOT, all the way thru First gear...... at least.
The absolute biggest cam I would cringe at is [email protected], which is about a 276 advertised.
The biggest I would run is about [email protected], which is about 268 advertised.
According to your stated parameters it would be a [email protected] with 3.23 gears, which is about 260 advertised.
All of these to run with Eddies at about 10.7 Scr.
I would only replace the 252 if it was worn out.
But if I did replace it, I would try to find a cam with as much lift as the heads will work with, so that would be a custom cam.
Cruising with 3.55s, 65mph is about 3000. With 3.23s would be ~2700, 2.94s=2485
For this combo, headers are a good option but with overlaps this low, not a big deal; But forget the restrictive 360logs. Dual exhaust yes, but any old pipes will do. You also don't need a fancy fuel system nor even a CDI ignition system. So by buying the hi-compression alloy heads and installing the KB107s, you are pretty much done. Drive it for a few months or a summer, then decide on camming.
If you want to run the 2.94s, you might want to up yur stall. I like a 2800 for that gear; but if you decide to run the stock cam, I doubt you'll need the extra stall, so then, I'd just install the 2.94s and see how it goes.
3.55s are the right gear to blow the tires off at 32 mph on a 2-1 downshift.
BTW
Just bringing the pistons up to ~. 012 of the deck,Which is about where the KB107s land, and using the .028 gaskets with the stock iron heads, will bring your Scr up to ~9.6, and with the stock 252 cam your cylinder pressure might climb to 160, which will make a HUGE difference in how it currently runs.
If you install a bigger cam with a later closing intake, your bottom end is guaranteed to be softer.
If you want quick, easy and effective; this should do it. Heck you could even run it as a 2bbl and still get lotsa grins ........in first gear, anyway.
If going the route to rebuild, then it a Hughes 2800 rpm would be a good investment. High compression pistons as mentioned are also highly recommended. But if going Edelbrock heads, I would also recommend buying the heads bare and having someone you trust do the seat, guide, and spring and retainer work. This would be the cam I would use with said Edelbrocks and the proper rate springs, about 130 seat and 320 open.
Howards Cams, Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshaft & Lifter Set, Chrysler SB, 219/225 @ .050, .525/.525, 110 LS - Competition Products
But with that good of a combination, I'd probably just go with an MP .528/284 solid.
Howards Cams, Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshaft & Lifter Set, Chrysler SB, 219/225 @ .050, .525/.525, 110 LS - Competition Products
But with that good of a combination, I'd probably just go with an MP .528/284 solid.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Only if you dumpster dive, junkyard cruise or just use Crap sitting around.
To unless anything worth having the cost is so close it doesn’t matter.
Most haven't figured that out. ya get what ya pay for.
AJ, if you read the OP's first post, he said he wants a "fun street/strip cruiser". Notice the "strip" part? I've never seen a fast 360 with a stock 252 .410 cam. Have you? Building a 360 with Ed heads, KB107s, etc. and sticking a stock 360 cam in doesn't make much sense to me.
Whatever cam you pick, get the cam only, not the lifters. Have your factory lifters re-faced & you will be good. Getting a cam & lifter package today is playing Russian Roulette....with 7 bullets in a six-shooter.
And he says pump it up to 11.0-1. AJ miss read that one. Gotta be
I know and your half wrong depending on the build.
Here’s a good one for ya…. Go price what Chevy guys are paying to converter there rockers system to shaft rockers.
LMFAO!!!
Or change there valve angle from the pathetic 22* to the SB 18*
WOOOOOOOOO! Ha ha ha ha
Maybe you should convert to a Chevy.
You can get a Mustang for $650?
Below is my $500 ‘79 Magnum
$700 ‘71 Duster
And IIRC, $1,200 ‘73 Duster
Both butterscotch, 1 is two tone, the other half vinyl top.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
$650 wouldn't even buy a rusted mustang body. Good price for the magnum, to bad there's nothing available for it unless you want to spend all your time on the internet looking for parts. The dusters probably need lots of sheet metal work, I've found 1 duster in Missouri and it needed more work than I was wanting to have done. When I was comparing the sbm's to the Chevy and Fords I was merely talking about cruisers not race cars. If you compare cost between the 3 on basic things mopars cost more. But I still like them.
Congratulations again on the move to sunny Florida friend! I'd love to have your weather to work in compared to what I'm facing right now...
There is plenty for the later B body cars, you just have to know exactly what your looking for. It is a cruiser decked out drive train wise w/a ‘00 - 5.9, 600 AFB, rpm intake, JY distributor, Hooker Super comps @ 1-3/4 which were pricey even at the time when I paid $330. It sports a trap door air cleaner from ‘72. A stock stall 727 (Which will shortly be changed out after 17 years) & a 9-1/4 w/3.55’s. (Which came from a donor Cordoba that was divided between 3 cars.)
The ‘71 Duster at the time got the Cordobas 400/727 coupled to a 8-3/4 purchased from a FABO member. Swapped it out for a small block/904. This will be the drag car. Wanna debate your Chevy parts vs my MP build?
‘74 Duster was a driver with minimal parts. The 318 got a 218@050 Hyd cam, LD4B, 600 AFB, Hooker headers into a summit exhaust. At 7.8-1, I mustered a low 15 overheating.
Thanks! Well, tonight’s low is a baffling 32*’s though normally it’s been in the upper 40’s to low 50’s. It’ll get colder. It’s January and February that always are the coldest winter months, soooooooooo LOL!
Daytime highs are all over the place. I’m not used to this. But! It seems to be floating around from the mid 60’s to mid 70’s. Forecast on Saturday is 52! Chilly!
Woooo! Pop in zip 11720 for my old hood.
Yea…. It’s goona get colder there too!
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
For what you're wanting to do with the 360, I think that the heads you are going to run is over kill. Bigger valve's and ports are not beneficial for a cruiser as chances are you'll never spin your 360 over 5k on the street for most of the time. I'd say get pistons to run at zero deck height and better compression and a cam equal to the 340 but with modern valve timing events, quality headers and good flowing exhaust system, 750 carburetor, edelbrock performer rpm intake manifold. Good ignition system and closed chamber heads.
CluelessMopar
Well-Known Member
So after looking around a bit I found this cam, which is probably pretty close to the 340 cam. Would this be more suited to my application?
COMP Cams SK20-222-3 Xtreme Energy Camshaft Kit, Mopar 273/318/340/360
COMP Cams SK20-222-3 Xtreme Energy Camshaft Kit, Mopar 273/318/340/360
-
