So I would under stand if I buy the whole QA1setup for my car ,k frame control arms shocks all for the low low price of 2700$$ I cannot go wrong ?.
Huh?
Depends on what you’re doing. Application is everything.
The QA1 K member doesn’t do all that much though. It doesn’t change any of the stock mounting positions, uses the same steering box and steering components. It only lightens the front end by about 8 pounds. In other words, if you have a stock K member that’s useable replacing it with a QA1 K member is just expensive. Might buy you some oil pan clearance. I think seam welding the stock K and reinforcing the steering box mount is more than enough for the vast majority of these cars, including those doing track time.
The QA1 tubular lower control arms are about the same. They’re very nice pieces, I have them on my Duster. But a stock set of LCA’s with reinforcing plates and new bushings does pretty much the same thing. The QA1 tubular LCA’s are only a couple pounds lighter. They used to allow a little extra suspension travel which can come in handy on a significantly lowered car, but they’ve since added bump stops that duplicate the travel of the stock LCA’s.
Really, the important parts are the UCA’s, which have more positive caster built in. So better geometry, and less flex. And the adjustable strut rods, which you need to work with poly or Delrin LCA bushings and eliminate binding to free up the LCA so it moves smoothly through its entire range of travel.
Shocks are important for everything, but they should be matched to the torsion bar size. If you run the undersprung stock torsion bars you don’t need fancy shocks. If you run bars over 1” in diameter you’ll want to go with Bilsteins or maybe the Hotchkis Fox’s. I’m sure the QA1’s are good too, but I haven’t run those. Bilsteins and the Hotchkis Fox’s work great.
So yeah, IMO you can go wrong buying that whole kit, because you spend half of your money on stuff most people don’t need.
