vacuum container??

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Pawned

Pawned

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I picked up a vacuum pump this morning to siphon the oil out of transmission.
I tried using a very thick plastic jug to catch the fluid and the jug just buckled.
I tried a 5 gallon bucket and that also buckled. I need some ideas what to us to collect the ATF fluid without it buckling.
I have a new empty paint can but that will not work. I am open to suggestions.

I may put in reinforcements into the bucket to hold open the sides
 
So............you have a vacuum pump that only pumps air? And you are evacuating the "tank" in order to drain? What I used to use, and what USED to be easy to find are empty refrigerant cans. These things are / were handy as 'ell. I used to build stuff like air driven brake bleeders, 90 wt dispensers, and so on. I ALSO used to use them for "spare air" tanks, but got talked out of that

These have no rust protection, unless you put it there, and are pretty thin. They can rust up and become a bomb under air pressure
 
So how are you using this.

From what you are saying, I assume you are creating vacuum on the bucket with a line coming out and into the trans?
 
Cut the tip of the hose at an angle so it doesn't suck down to the bottom of the pan. :)
That fluid should come out easier than that.
 
Yes, I put a gallon jug inside the bucket. The line from the transmission runs down into the jug. I tried using the jug only and it crumpled very fast. I am using a 5g bucket now. The bucket buckles also. Tomorrow I am going to cut a piece of wood and put it halfway down the bucket. It should not buckle so dramatically. I will have to add a cutout for the top of the jug.
 
Even "Homers bucket" collapsed under the vacuum? I would try and snag a 5g metal differential oil barrel from an auto shop, the ones with the tops that crimp on. Cut hole in top, slide in shop vac and duct tape it, make another hole for the sucker hose and go to town. Those buckets are pretty tough...who knew?
 
Pawned said:
Yes, I put a gallon jug inside the bucket. The line from the transmission runs down into the jug. I tried using the jug only and it crumpled very fast. I am using a 5g bucket now. The bucket buckles also. Tomorrow I am going to cut a piece of wood and put it halfway down the bucket. It should not buckle so dramatically. I will have to add a cutout for the top of the jug.
Click to expand...

I don't know if you have any interest in doing this with yours, but I drilled a self taping sheet metal screw into the pan right under the filler tube, so I take out the screw to drain the fluid and not make a mess.
While the pan is off just clean the area on the inside of the pan, put the threaded screw back in and a little RTV around the screw shaft and she's ready to go back on.

Some trans shops drill a hole in the pan and put a pop rivit in it when it goes back on.
Next time they just shear the rivit head off and punch the rest into the pan to drain it and repeat the process.
 
pishta said:
a 5g metal differential oil barrel from an auto shop, the ones with the tops that crimp on. Cut hole in top, slide in shop vac and duct tape it, make another hole for the sucker hose and go to town. Those buckets are pretty tough...who knew?
Click to expand...

The larger the container the worse this might get. That "pressure per square inch" adds up pretty fast when you start increasing the surface area

Don't forget there are TWO ways of supporting a container. You can solder in ties internally, or construct something externally. Gallon paint cans solder really well, LOL

The other thing........are you certain you don't have a big restriction in the liquid line? I can't imagine that unless it's near freezing or below, that oil would be so thick as to cause this kind of grief
 
67Dart273 said:
The other thing........are you certain you don't have a big restriction in the liquid line? I can't imagine that unless it's near freezing or below, that oil would be so thick as to cause this kind of grief
Click to expand...

That was my first thought as well, there has to be some kind of restriction on the trans suction side.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Go find an old pressure cooker to use.
Click to expand...
X2 I found mine at a Good will store. I put added a vacuum gauge from an old ac gauge set along with 2, 1/4" male fittings. One to hook up a vacuum/evac. pump. The other one has a tube running inside to about 1/4" from the bottom inside to pull down/out fluids.I use it all the time. That sucker will pull a golf ball through a garden hose:cheers:
Hope this helps
 
TrailBeast said:
I don't know if you have any interest in doing this with yours, but I drilled a self taping sheet metal screw into the pan right under the filler tube, so I take out the screw to drain the fluid and not make a mess.
While the pan is off just clean the area on the inside of the pan, put the threaded screw back in and a little RTV around the screw shaft and she's ready to go back on.

Some trans shops drill a hole in the pan and put a pop rivit in it when it goes back on.
Next time they just shear the rivit head off and punch the rest into the pan to drain it and repeat the process.
Click to expand...

Actually I like that Idea. I was going to look for some spigot I can put in.
the pan to drain it
 
Ask a local HVAC shop if they have an old, contaminated, refrigerant recovery drum you can buy.
 
Pawned said:
Actually I like that Idea. I was going to look for some spigot I can put in.
the pan to drain it
Click to expand...


I would install something like this when I had the pan off. I would red loctite the inner nut when I installed it.

View attachment $_1.JPG

View attachment $_35.JPG

[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-Transmission-Pan-Drain-Plug-Kit-65128-/331264746936?hash=item4d20eae5b8&vxp=mtr"]Dorman Transmission Pan Drain Plug Kit 65128 | eBay[/ame]

I tried to find a bung that could be welded to the pan but all the ones I have found so far are way too big.
 
Here is the steel weld on bung.


View attachment O2SensorBung-225225.jpg


[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weld-Bung-for-Oil-Pan-1-2-NPT-Female-Steel-/190525150980?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5c2f1704&vxp=mtr"]Weld Bung for Oil Pan 1 2" NPT Female Steel | eBay[/ame]


Then use this magnetic pipe plug with it.

View attachment $_1.JPG


[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trans-Dapt-9064-1-2-NPT-Magnetic-Drain-Plug-/351112997555?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51bff72ab3&vxp=mtr"]Trans Dapt 9064 1 2 034 NPT Magnetic Drain Plug | eBay[/ame]
 
Pawned said:
Actually I like that Idea. I was going to look for some spigot I can put in.
the pan to drain it
Click to expand...

What if the spigot got knocked off by something?
Like a section of truck tire. :)
 
65cuda360 said:
The beauty of a refrigerant tank is the "Y" valve and the 1/4" SAE flare fittings. I use one for changing boat oil on inboard V8's.
Click to expand...

You cannot do that and have not been able to for a number of years. "The feds" put a check valve in the R cans about 1990?

The "old cans" are much sought after, because regulations or no, they DO get re-used by many mechanics.
 
67Dart273 said:
You cannot do that and have not been able to for a number of years. "The feds" put a check valve in the R cans about 1990?

The "old cans" are much sought after, because regulations or no, they DO get re-used by many mechanics.
Click to expand...
There, I fixed my previous post. I meant "recovery" tank. The empty drums are worthless.
 
Drill pumps do work. I've also got a 12V pump that clips on the battery. They are s------l----o----w.
 
4spdragtop said:
Sorry but Im lost here.....why not use a small drill pump??? None of this pressurized stuff??
Click to expand...

It never occurred to me to use one. I bought one many years ago and it lasted all of 5 minutes, maybe less.
I have never thought of using another
 
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