valve adjustment

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72ScampTramp

72ScampTramp

Scamp Tramp
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So after head gasket. Ive got the head back. Setting the valves, I do not own a size big enough for crank bolt. Starter still hooked up. Is it ok to bump it around with the starter? Will that be hard on the cam? I believe I have the adjusters close just need to go back and set them right.
 
Here's a valve adjustment chart. You need to have a timing tape on your balancer or have it marked every 90°.
 

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I didnt think so. I got it done and motor put back together. I used the starter to bump it around with plugs out so far no water. Now im back to where I started new plugs and wires. I ran the adjusters in till there were 3 threads on all showing then went back around cycling the starter to set the lash about .015
 
72ScampTramp said:
I didnt think so. I got it done and motor put back together. I used the starter to bump it around with plugs out so far no water. Now im back to where I started new plugs and wires. I ran the adjusters in till there were 3 threads on all showing then went back around cycling the starter to set the lash about .015
Click to expand...

Where does the cam card say to set lash?
 
Yes you can
While the engine is hot and idling, and valve cover off, select the correct feeler gauge 10 for intake 15 for exhaust and slide it between the rocker and the valve. Put a closed end wrench on the adjuster nut and tighten until it gets hard to get the feeler gauge in there and then back off a little.

I do it all the time, you may want to put an old towel on your fender well and try not to rev the engine with the valve cover off.

Trust me this is a much much faster way to do this.


RustyRatRod said:
You cannot, Josh.
Click to expand...
 
Dangerous. You have a wrench swinging on the end of a rocker arm. I prefer static adjustment. But it's simply a personal preference.
 
Two schools of thought. I see no reason to adjust with engine running. Hot, messy, oil all over hell

EOIC

EXHAUST OPENING, adjust that intake

INTAKE (having opened and nearly CLOSED, adjust that exhaust.

Works on a Briggs, a slant, any V8, or just about any other pushrod engine you'll ever see


The Mopar valve chart is great for a V8 with that firing order. Next time you're at your buddies helping him adjust his 351 Ferd, that chart is useless
 
67Dart273 said:
The Mopar valve chart is great for a V8 with that firing order. Next time you're at your buddies helping him adjust his 351 Ferd, that chart is useless
Click to expand...

72ScampTramp said:
Mike thank you! I knew there was a thread with that chart. But wasnt sure where it was
Click to expand...

There is no reason to use that chart. USe the rec comp cams method and set them one bank at a time, one at a time. Much faster and works on every engine.
 
Yup - I get it hot, pull one valve cover, turning with my starter "bump" button, open exhaust to max, set intake, open intake to the closing ramp, set exh. When done, button up and re-fire to get it warm again. Then do the other side.
 
Does your cam use hot specs? Mine states cold but I run them .004 tight
 
The Mopar valve chart is great for a V8 with that firing order. Next time you're at your buddies helping him adjust his 351 Ferd, that chart is useless[/QUOTE]

Better look closer. The firing order on the chart is 18436572.
 
Point is you don't need to know that to set the lash. Throw it away..

The easiest way to make sure you are checking lash at the right time is to use the "EOIC" method.
http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/ctrp_1012_setting_valve_lash/photo_2.html http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/ctrp_1012_setting_valve_lash/photo_2.html
You can set your lash with an Allen wrench and a standard crescent wrench, but a dedicated


EOIC stands for Exhaust Opening, Intake Closing when working with the intake and exhaust valves in a single combustion chamber. To use this method, pull the valve cover so that you can see the rockers and valve stems and turn the engine over by hand. (You can also use a bump starter if you choose.) Work with only one pair of valves from a single combustion chamber at a time. When you see the exhaust valve beginning to open-you will see the rocker begin to push the valve stem down-you will know that the corresponding intake valve is fully closed with the lifter on the base circle of the cam lobe. Likewise, when you see the intake valve fully open and then start to close (Intake Closing), you will know the corresponding exhaust valve is ready to be checked. Repeat the process with each pair of valves on the engine


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I just offered the chart as a suggestion. It is just one way to set them correctly. I have been setting them using the EOIC method long before the chart was printed. I tried setting them running and it worked good but it made a big mess. You can set them cold also by setting them a .001-.002 looser than spec. When the engine warms up everything expands and tightens the lash. If you have a aftermarket cam, you should set it to their specs. My E-4 is set at .015-.015 hot. tmm
 
toolmanmike said:
Better look closer. The firing order on the chart is 18436572.
Click to expand...

.................and unless you want to mentally rework the timing marks and cylinder numbering on a Ford it IS useless. My point is, that chart IS great for (most) GM and all modern Mopars, not so much if you find yourself leaning over "something else."

Factory original 351s are NOT 1843 ......etc. The old FE/ 289/ 302 etc WERE if you rework cylinder numbering.

Newer GM is different, as well

AND...............if you have an older "original" 351W into which you've stuffed a "302" cam, you have to pay attention to "which" Ford Firing order is actually being used.

I don't need to know any of that, LOL EOIC
 
67Dart273 said:
.................and unless you want to mentally rework the timing marks and cylinder numbering on a Ford it IS useless. My point is, that chart IS great for (most) GM and all modern Mopars, not so much if you find yourself leaning over "something else."

Factory original 351s are NOT 1843 ......etc. The old FE/ 289/ 302 etc WERE if you rework cylinder numbering.

Newer GM is different, as well

AND...............if you have an older "original" 351W into which you've stuffed a "302" cam, you have to pay attention to "which" Ford Firing order is actually being used.

I don't need to know any of that, LOL EOIC
Click to expand...

Agreed, The EOIC way is the simplest and easiest to remember and like you said, it works on every engine.
 
I am kind of lost. Sounds like you have adjustable rockers in a 440, and maybe solid lifters (didn't tell us). I skimmed your build thread a bit and saw nothing, but not all 15 pages.

Before I had a big enough socket, I used a large crescent wrench on my 383 crank bolt. Now I use a large metric socket (32 mm?), as I recall.
 
BillGrissom said:
I am kind of lost. Sounds like you have adjustable rockers in a 440, and maybe solid lifters (didn't tell us). I skimmed your build thread a bit and saw nothing, but not all 15 pages.

Before I had a big enough socket, I used a large crescent wrench on my 383 crank bolt. Now I use a large metric socket (32 mm?), as I recall.
Click to expand...

Yes solid cam 440. I need to buy that socket but the only time I think about it is when Im knee deep in it and need it.
 
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