W2 408 sb mopar on the dyno

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Those BSFCs are fantastic. The Ultras are that good (shocked a little...lol)?
I like the fact the heads are not heavilly ported - what were the flow figures for .300-.500 lift? It seems like every set of W2s that gets used gets "full race porting" and they really don't need too much to make great numbers.
Nice work.
 
No way! That lift is nothing. After lash and deflection it's probably .635 at the valve.
Check out a set of calipers sometime and really look at the difference between .600 and .700...just isn't that much. What you get that you cannot see is valve SPEED!

I dont think its the diff between .6 &.700...its the almost .700 total thats big man.lol
How ever you get it though... the point is, you got it.
No body is knockin
 
Damn. They work real well just like that!

Yep! The draw back is the expense. And the main reason I think that there not seen on the street more often. Rocker gear went through the roof a few years back. Otherwise, it has long been my opinion that there worth doing.

MoPars equipment has always been really good, but a little pricey for the street guy to use. Your pockets have to be a little deeper and have the want/need to go faster in the street/track in order to step up to a W series head.
 
I think the thing that makes the mopar heads so expensive is the port work/finish work they need. That cost is a little over 1200.00 more than chevy and ford heads of equal power potential.
That is a big problem!!
 
Those BSFCs are fantastic. The Ultras are that good (shocked a little...lol)?
I like the fact the heads are not heavilly ported - what were the flow figures for .300-.500 lift? It seems like every set of W2s that gets used gets "full race porting" and they really don't need too much to make great numbers.
Nice work.

Flow was real good at lower lifts...this is a big reason why I like wider lca's with more stroke on an engine that will rpm.
Plus I needed to keep the idle in check and I believe wider lca's work better than shorter duration when it comes to compromising idle/street drivability vs. power.
JRob, almost every customer I deal with needs a decent idle and really wants good street manners so it becomes a delicate balancing act to make power and drivability.

If I had built this for myself, I would have used a cam more like 260-266, .720 lift or more and still had a 112lca. For big topend power these engines with decent heads like wider lca's.
Now if it's a smaller cid...I go the other way with the lca.
 
Wow, that is pretty impressive lift IMO. Congrats on the results.

So the RPM air gap would have made better torque 2500-4500 and probably still had most of the top end power the victor (not super victor) has? I ask cause I am in the process of converting my 416 from a PP 508 hyd to a 255/260 with a tad over .600 with the 1.6s. Currently have a victor and would like more mid range torque for the street if the motor survives a stint in a light drag car.

And yeah, we need some details on making that 700+ HP with a SB, please.
 
The cam's really not that large when you consider what a lot of race engines now use to make big numbers. .750-.800 is common and the duration isn't really indicating it's that large. For me the wider LSA means an overall flatter set of power curves - perfect for a "multi-use" (street) car. The narrower ones will usually make more power over all power but you end up having to sacrifice manners and low speed response - even in the stroked engine.
What's the duration at .200 look like?
 
Wow, that is pretty impressive lift IMO. Congrats on the results.

So the RPM air gap would have made better torque 2500-4500 and probably still had most of the top end power the victor (not super victor) has? I ask cause I am in the process of converting my 416 from a PP 508 hyd to a 255/260 with a tad over .600 with the 1.6s. Currently have a victor and would like more mid range torque for the street if the motor survives a stint in a light drag car.

And yeah, we need some details on making that 700+ HP with a SB, please.

No real good dual plane intake exists for the W2 so that's not an option. I'm talking an LA style build around 500HP and less.
You need to concentrate your parts to work in the same rpm range you plan on running the engine in.
For about 15K, I can tell you everything about the 726HP sm ;-)
 
The cam's really not that large when you consider what a lot of race engines now use to make big numbers. .750-.800 is common and the duration isn't really indicating it's that large. For me the wider LSA means an overall flatter set of power curves - perfect for a "multi-use" (street) car. The narrower ones will usually make more power over all power but you end up having to sacrifice manners and low speed response - even in the stroked engine.
What's the duration at .200 look like?

The lobes I chose are SMOOTH and extremely easy on valve train parts...similar to most of Cranes lobes. On a build like this, fast lobes should be worth another 10-15HP but won't live much over a year with regular street driving/drag racing.
I can get 5 years from these lobes/springs I use. To most guys, the longevity is worth it.
 
:protest: How about some pics then for free?

Ha ha....I'll post some tonite. It was 4.125 x 4.060, cam was around 270-280 @ .050, .770 lift gross. 14:1, Indy oval port that I ported more, Indy intake, 1050, TTI 1 7/8 x 3.5", R3 block, nothing crazy. It needed larger ports, but made peak HP at 7000-7100rpm and carried that power up to 7600rpm!
 
I think the thing that makes the mopar heads so expensive is the port work/finish work they need. That cost is a little over 1200.00 more than chevy and ford heads of equal power potential.
That is a big problem!!

Exactly! The price per W2 head from Summit is $647. But that is a bare head. The cost of the gear to finish it is one thing. Now the cost to have it done and have have minor bowl cleaning as well, after all, where there already right? What the heck, bowl port it as well.

The tally goes up right fast. Worth it is IMO. But the pockets gotta be a bit deeper than a Edel./RHS head.

The lobes I chose are SMOOTH and extremely easy on valve train parts...similar to most of Cranes lobes. On a build like this, fast lobes should be worth another 10-15HP but won't live much over a year with regular street driving/drag racing.
I can get 5 years from these lobes/springs I use. To most guys, the longevity is worth it.

Wow! You just said what I get slammed for. And no one says BOO!
Been saying that for years. I guess telling people that a Crane cam is a good cam and they make them that way for a reason wasn't good enough.
After all, there the experts and I'm just some *** on the net that don't know squat.

Been sayin for awhile. Them ol'skcool guys know a little something.
 
Oh Brain. Only a 1-7/8 header? Not a 2 inch? I guess it is also what is on hand. Headers do get price when size goes up.
 
Just ran it with the smaller 1 5/8 step headers and no mufflers-574HP. Added mufflers-580HP with the 950HP carb!!
So small header with muffler, small'ish carb and it made 10HP less than the larger header, open, no mufflers, and larger carb!
Not too shabby....
 
Thought they were tti's 1-3/4 - 1-7/8's

TTI's step header is 1 5/8-1 3/4 step...and I've found that the smaller tube header alot of times either makes better power or the same power even on larger builds like this. This is why we test!!
 
ou812 said:
This is why we test!!

Amen! I love to screw around myself. I never thought anything of swapping out any components just to see how it is different, works/performs for fun. While a dyno was always out of my reach, testing was always the boulevard and track.

I thought nothing of a weekend cam swap. Run a set up for a week to tune and see how it works. Then Give it a trial by fire. (Street and track)
Next weekend it could be a change of carbs, then Intakes.

After a month, swap a cam again.

It was a great time in life. The best was when I could come back and hand out a pasting to a guy I previously lost against.

Thanks for sharing Brain. This is mighty cool to see how things work.
 
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