W2 Heads for a 340 Block...

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dale_brennon

dale_brennon

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Hey everyone, I have been on the site for some time, but for the most part I have just bought odds and ends things to start my build on my 71 Demon, I recently picked up some W2 heads from a friend of a friend, and I was wondering kind of combos people run with them, I know they are a rare head and it's kind of rare to come across a set that remains stock, but I was told these are in really great shape. I had been looking at doing a 408 stroke from a 360 block, but the more and more I think about it I think I'd rather use a 340 block and stroke it to a 416. My question is what is required on the heads to use them, or can I even use them on a stroker motor? I am not an engine guy so I figured I'd put it out there. I am just trying to get an idea of some of the directions I can take when I begin. I am currently deployed to Iraq, but I am nearing the end of this tour so I plan on putting an engine together when I return home. I am from Kentucky, but living in the Houston area now, so if someone knows where I can find a deal or some help from that area I'd appreciate any input that I can get. I am looking to be around the 450 HP range from the motor, and it's going to be bolted up to a A833 OD 4speed, not sure what type of clutch I will be running, and the rearend is a 8 3/4 SG with 3.91 gears. Just to give you an idea of the drivetrain I will have, which I am sure would be able to maintain that amount of power no problem, so please fill this thread with as much knowledge as possible, I am a helicopter mechanic, but I am eager to learn more about working on engines, and body work, as I am going to encounter both in the very near future!

-Alex
 
Get yourself a 360 block and save the 340 for stock #,s car or sell to someone doing a 340 car resto.JMO.Useing the W2 heads you,ll need a W2 intake and new hedders,unless the heads have dual hedder bolt holes.The 360 with these W2 heads should make gops of tq and hp.Stay save til you arrive home.:cheers:
 
I have the headers for the W2 heads already, I am not sure who made them, I was informed they are adjustable, like I said before, I don't really know much about the things I have, I have yet to see them.
 
What's a good intake to run on these stroker motors? I know edelbrock makes a nice intake, but is there a place I can get one that is CNC/port matched, or is it better to buy one from Jegs and then just pay someone to do the work, I plan on having my heads worked over as well. I don't know of many people or company to have this done for a decent amount of money, any suggestions?
 
dale_brennon said:
What's a good intake to run on these stroker motors? I know edelbrock makes a nice intake, but is there a place I can get one that is CNC/port matched, or is it better to buy one from Jegs and then just pay someone to do the work, I plan on having my heads worked over as well. I don't know of many people or company to have this done for a decent amount of money, any suggestions?
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If you have the hood clearance, the Indy intake works good with 1" milled off the plenum. If it were mine, I would just use the eddy victor intake and have it ported.
If those heads are done right, you can make great HP and TQ but if they are overported they will KILL that engine.
Camshaft selection is also critical with a 340 and W2's....
Brian
 
I think I am actually going to end up using a 360 block, I have been looking around and it just seems that with me trying to keep it under a decent budget I can come across a short block 360 for much much less. I am going to be using the six pack hood, so with that scoop it should give me the required hood clearance for almost anything, what kind of lift and duration do you think would be good for a motor like that, keep in mind I want to get the most power I can, but I want the motor to be streetable also.
 
I agree.....go with a 340, you will end up with a few more cubes. There are always plenty of them around.
 
dale_brennon said:
I think I am actually going to end up using a 360 block, I have been looking around and it just seems that with me trying to keep it under a decent budget I can come across a short block 360 for much much less. I am going to be using the six pack hood, so with that scoop it should give me the required hood clearance for almost anything, what kind of lift and duration do you think would be good for a motor like that, keep in mind I want to get the most power I can, but I want the motor to be streetable also.
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You need to build a combination of parts that work together in the rpm range you want. The 360 is a good move imo, and is easier to cam.
When I first did my W2 headed 360 in my duster, it was 11.5:1, I mixed pump gas and race gas, solid ft. cam, victor intake, 950HP carb and stock rods, crank and KB 107's. It pushed my duster 119mph very first time out. 60ft. was poor due to me using a street converter and having ladder bars simply dead hooked it so the engine was dragged down severly at launch.
When I decided to go with an 8" converter that's when the car would leave well (1.40's).

Tell us what you plan to do with the car, what parts you plan on using, and a general idea of what you expect from the engine performance.
Brian
 
Well like I said before, I want to use a 360 block, I believe the 408 uses a 4" crank, I am not sure if using a steel or a cast is of much importance, I don't plan on going over 500HP, and from what I have read the cast should handle that. I have been trying to find something on the pros and cons of the Hyperutectic KB pistons, and the Forged KB pistons. I am not good with cams as far as what to use and what not to use. I know I'd like to have a nice lobe at ideal, and I'd like to launch nice when I do take it racing. I have looked around and all the short blocks seem to come with forged rods, it just differs on which brand they use. I would probably be using a mech. water pump, with an electric fuel pump. I don't know on which carb to use, I was thinking some where around 850ish, I am a pretty big fan of the Quickfuel carbs, but I have also heard good things about Demon carbs and various others. I have heard good things about the victor intakes as well, and depending on the port work, it would probably be a better choice to go with something on those lines. I will be using an 4speed OD set up, so I am not sure on what kind of clutch or anything to use to be able to race it on a regular basis. As far as the suspension goes, I have a set of super stock springs that I am going to be putting on the car, and then I have a stock BBP front end, and I plan on getting the TB replaced, they are for a /6 right now. I'd like to be able to take my old lady out on the town and have a conversation with her while driving, but still be able to run in the 7's when I go to the track, I don't mind high 7's just as long as I am in that range lol. So with that being said, what are some things to consider, and some places to start looking to get the motor together?
 
I don't get it, you want a stroker engine, you want W2 heads==yet you don't want more than 500 hp ?

You can get over 400 hp easily from a high revving 340 with W2 heads.

The sound has to do with mufflers more so than just HP, there are lots of very loud-weak power cars. There are $100,000 BMW's with V10's making over 500 HP yet can pass the strictest noise laws.

Like ou812 said, the converter can make all the difference, a good 8 inch converter can do wonders for the launch yet is streetable.

Personally I would go with an all forged 340 with those W2 heads, figure built right a 7,500 red line should be safe and a bast with the right gears and converter
 
dale_brennon said:
Well like I said before, I want to use a 360 block, I believe the 408 uses a 4" crank, I am not sure if using a steel or a cast is of much importance, I don't plan on going over 500HP, and from what I have read the cast should handle that. I have been trying to find something on the pros and cons of the Hyperutectic KB pistons, and the Forged KB pistons. I am not good with cams as far as what to use and what not to use. I know I'd like to have a nice lobe at ideal, and I'd like to launch nice when I do take it racing. I have looked around and all the short blocks seem to come with forged rods, it just differs on which brand they use. I would probably be using a mech. water pump, with an electric fuel pump. I don't know on which carb to use, I was thinking some where around 850ish, I am a pretty big fan of the Quickfuel carbs, but I have also heard good things about Demon carbs and various others. I have heard good things about the victor intakes as well, and depending on the port work, it would probably be a better choice to go with something on those lines. I will be using an 4speed OD set up, so I am not sure on what kind of clutch or anything to use to be able to race it on a regular basis. As far as the suspension goes, I have a set of super stock springs that I am going to be putting on the car, and then I have a stock BBP front end, and I plan on getting the TB replaced, they are for a /6 right now. I'd like to be able to take my old lady out on the town and have a conversation with her while driving, but still be able to run in the 7's when I go to the track, I don't mind high 7's just as long as I am in that range lol. So with that being said, what are some things to consider, and some places to start looking to get the motor together?
Click to expand...

It's much easier to get a true street car into the 7's with a 408. Money very well spent. I just did a true street 408 with W2's, solid street roller cam, victor intake unported, 950, 1 5/8 step headers and 9.8:1 and it made 550's HP. You could tame that down to 500 and pick up the low-midrange power and keep the rear gears on the high side (3.23).
The heads were ported, but not heavily.
Brian
 
3.23 gears are more highway friendly than 3.91's, would be nice....I guess

I still wounder if at certain speeds it could be lazy right at first

Well heck, a 3.55 gear might solve that
 
Brain,

I saw the link to your website, I was looking at all of your services, do you have an anverage on what it cost to have an intake/heads port matched? Those numbers that you were getting out of that street 408 sound like somewhere I'd like to be, I can deal with 50 extra HP lol, who can't really. I also like where the CR is on that motor, did you just run 93 on that motor? Also if I had the heads and intake ported I would probably see a little more on the power and torque side of that wouldn't I. I planned on doing a mini-tub to the car, and the way it was explained to me is that if I use an after market tub then I would have to put a cage in the car, due to the fact that I loose support overall when taking out the factory tubs, but if I were to just add an extention to the existing tube then I wouldn't need the cage, my thinking is I'd like to get as much tire as possible while still keeping the SS springs in the car. How much do you think it would run me if say your company were to build a motor pretty close to something like you already have? Keep in mind I am still in Iraq so I won't actually be building it for a few more months, but it never hurts to get an idea of the price. Also is the 3.91 a little to agressive of a gear for what I want to do? I already have that rearend built, and I know the 3.91 is a much more streetable gear compaired to the 5.13 that was in it when I picked it up lol.

-Alex
 
It would depend on what parts you already have as to the cost...you can use our CC article to guide you on cost, just figure the W2's in with the added porting.
The heads on the engine I just did had a fair amount of porting done, just not a full port.

Too much porting will kill that bottom end - midrange power and move the power up too far for a street car.
With more cam and compression you can make more power. I would use a solid FT cam before a hyd. roller if it were mine.
Yes it ran fine on 91 actually!
 
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