What cu. stroker would you pick?

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bones427

bones427

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If you had a 340 block and wanted to do a stroker kit who's and what cu.in would you pick? would be a street/strip combo 11 to 1 3400 lbs car.
 
not worried about budget. would like to run 10.50 or quicker. and still drive on street. hear alot about to much stroke and bad rod ratio was wonderning what every one is building. I am thinking along the lines of a 430 cu. 4.125 stroke/6.200 rod combo. and will probably use some nos at a 150 shot or less to play with, use it now on the 340 picked up a sec.
 
if I had to go stroker I go with the 360 stroke of 3.55 I believe it is, not much but enough to edge out the 340 stroke of 3.31.

You can buy cast and forged cranks with the 360 stroke ground on 340 mains. And pistons are the cheaper .060 over 360 stock pistons. Everybody makes and sell those pistons and many compression ratios to pick from. The 360 pistons has a decent length skirt to lessen piston rock--expect not as long as 340 piston skirts are.

But 360 pistons only go .060 over--that is only .030 over on the 340, so make sure the pistons will fit first

That is what I would do, if I wanted a "stroker" which I don't.....unless I had an R block
 
Look at Ou812s stroker buildup.(408)Came out in Car Craft as a buildup two months ago.Or pm him,car was running tens.Check it out.
 
Tell us more about the car. 3400lbs is a start.. What trans, suspension, tires, gearing, fuel type...
 
Look, not for nothin, but the hooker in the big city sez it best, "The bigger the better baby!"
 
I,d save the 340,find a 360 to stroke.I have 180 passes on my 408 with no problems.Runs 10.68@122mph.
 
i have a friend with a 68 cuda he has a 408 running 10.2-10.3s at 129 mph in the 1/4 all motor no bottle.. through a glide.. 8 3/4 4.86 gear.. very fun car
 
The 3.79 does look intersesting. Could be done with a production 360 crank if one wanted to go that route. But the longevity vs a new forged unit could be debated.
The 3.58 stroke can get you there with a good top end. W5 and up series or indy possibly. Would prolly have to twist it pretty hard.
I have only used the 3.58 and 4" in both blocks and only had the oportunity to run edel heads. Have yet to step up to w's and r3, but one day...
The 4" in either block will do the trick, even with edel heads, on motor. For that kind of output i would deff go with a forged crank and good rods.
Ive seen the cheaper eagle cast 4" and sir rods go mid 10s, but only for a season or two before flying apart.
The Mopar (scat) cast is the next step up (which i ran for a few years, eagle i rods, diamond flat top pist) 6.80s at 105 1/8 times, hi 10s-low 11s in a drag radial street car. 100s of passes and street time with no issues. Had smaller carb and dual plane so not so much top end, more tq and low gear 904 to get the 1/8 times.
Stiffer than that and live is forged crank area, $600 and up dep on what you settle upon. I have the eagle forged/scat i's/icon flats in my newest motor, hope to get it in the car soon.
I cant comment on the 4.1+ strokes in stock blocks, havnt tried them. Not so sure i would for dual purpose without r3.
Am sure guys that have/are running other combos will fill you in on their results.
I think mayb the 3.79 would live longer in a production block.
 
moper said:
Tell us more about the car. 3400lbs is a start.. What trans, suspension, tires, gearing, fuel type...
Click to expand...
727 4500 stall 9.5 convrt. 4.30 gear 28.5x10.5 tire edey heads, 2.055/1.6 fully ported , stip dom in. ported , 750carb flows 1040. ss spring rear. will be add. caltracs
 
Probably going to need more than 565hp to get it under 10.50. I know Brians car is REALLY efficient and went 10.52 at 3370 with about 560-565hp. Figure 575ish at a minimum to hit 10.50, want faster, need more HP than that.

Lowest $ to get there would probably be 4" arm, well ported set of ede's and appropriate cam to get you in the 575-600hp range.

Canning the 727 and going to an 8" verter and 904 will help too.
 
Destroked and steetable are pretty tough to get 600hp. :)
 
awh didn't see the street-able part.

Easy power and street-able is a 440. :)
 
For a streetable combo, meaning pump fuel and reasonable manners, I'd go with the 4" crank setups. You can go longer, I havent built one but Dave's (DJV) hase that nice write up on his. In terms of power and head flow, I really think it' a mistake using the RPMs in any form. I have a couple that I am familiar with that run stage 3 Shady Dell RPMs, that were worked beyond that and move 300cfm... But they really are close to maxxed out and they barely make 550-600hp. I would sell what you have and step up to something more racey like the Indy 360-1s and have them ported. A good race head, with a milder solid roller cam, will go a much longer way to making a streetable 600-630hp on pump fuel. You'll also need to lose that 9.5" convertor and get a good 8" race unit.
 
Weight is your enomy, I'd get the car as "light" as possible, It is a cryin shame these days with all the heavy weights (yeh people), I remember when i was young everyone was boney & 150 soakin wet, now 300 lbs. is the norm, if your a lightweight thats in your favor. So either way get the car "as light" as possible without butchering it up, pull all seats & runs some light weight front seats, glass hood, aluminum radiator, MS & brakes, lightweight front disc set-up, Caltrac kit with monos, racing wheels. I'd shoot for 3000-3100 race weight, should put you in the 10.2-10.3 range with a milder 408 with the right drivetrain, The 727 should get a low gear set.
 
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