what gauge of wires?

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Rapid Robert

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Wiring the stock car. (1) field wires to alt) (2) batt to alt charge wire (3) starter relay to starter solenoid (4) wires to voltage reg (5) wires to high voltage coil. (6) main feed wire to ign switch. thank you for your time. RR
 
What he said

I would up grade ( meaning if it is stock 12 go with 10 ) any wire that attached to the battery and alternator
 
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exactly. start with the FSM.
go up one size if your setup adds length between the source and the load.
Go up if you've added load. (electric pumps, elctric fans, etc)
Use a wire in the engine bay that is made to handle high heat and oil.
Support the wires and provide strain relief.

Late model cars used SAE 20 ga wire but I would not bother going that small even for gages.
If you are using a newer alternator, use field wires appropriate for the field current draw of that alternator.

I favor Marine wire which comes in AWG gage so has more strands, tinning, and is slightly denser than SAE gage wires.
 
I will get after it, thanks guys. RR EDIT grabbed my 64 dodge OE shop manual & yes the wire gauges are clearly marked.
 
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Not too overly sure but arbitrarily going up one size in wire may not be a great idea. Just use what the service manual says.
in my take, If you go up one size in wire on a select circuit the wire itself can now handle more load but maybe the destination item (gauge, voltage regulator, or whatever) may not be able to handle the extra load. The gauge of wire may also be part of the design in that it is designed to fry instead of what is at the other end of it. ??
 
I would think that the fuse would be there to protect the wire and device from burning up.

Other than a fusible link, I'm not sure if wires burning is the correct type of protection for the devices in the vehicle.
 
I agree, and it’s not really what I was saying. It’s all a calculated measure.
for example. I bought my last car where the previous owner had installed all 30 amp fuses, my comments and theory would come into play here.
 
I used welding cables from the battery to the main cutoff switch & the same from the cutoff down to the starter. Overkill I'm sure but the battery is behind the drivers seat & I had the cables left over from the last car that wrecked. I'm useing at least the OE gauge wires everywhere & 10 gauge from the alt to the cutoff switch. I crimped the wires as hard as I could but useing parts house taiwan blue & yellow connectors which are cheap/poor quality. Today I went to solder them in addition to the crimping but my very small soldering iron could not get hot enough. I can get a larger iron or am I go to go as is?
 
I crimped the wires as hard as I could but useing parts house taiwan blue & yellow connectors which are cheap/poor quality. Today I went to solder them in addition to the crimping but my very small soldering iron could not get hot enough. I can get a larger iron or am I go to go as is?
Maybe but it won't guarentee a better connection. That's the weak link and my only guess as to why so many use them is its like a bowl of chips on the table in front of us. Its so easy to just grab a handful rather than, or in addition to getting that corned beef sandwich or BLT in the kitchen.
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Can be OK for a quick repair or in a non-critical location or with good wire support.

One problem is we just can't see the crimp.
Another problem is the wire insulation isn't connected.
This creates a stress point in the conductions just behind the crimp.
Adding solder may help the strength of the connection but moves the stress point further from whaterver support it got from the terminal.

You can buy terminals made for soldering. Support the wire so there is good stress relief and use heat shink. Some of the marine terminals shrink their insulation onto the wire.

Ever see those cheap terminals on a new car? a new boat? a new airplane?
There's a reason for that!
The Packard type terminals haven't been the standard even for automotive use in quite a while, but they are far better, when properly made, than the blind squeezed terminals. I'd consider an double winged open barrel terminal as the baseline. Getting stranded or starting a fire in the middle of a roundy round track can't be any less dangerous than loosing power out on the water.

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I cringe with every other post in the electrical section where someone has "improved" or "upgraded" their system and used garbage terminal connections. All is fine until current tries to flow through these porly made, or highly stressed high resistance connections. Only takes one bad one to mess things up.
 
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I used welding cables from the battery to the main cutoff switch & the same from the cutoff down to the starter. Overkill I'm sure but the battery is behind the drivers seat & I had the cables left over from the last car that wrecked. I'm useing at least the OE gauge wires everywhere & 10 gauge from the alt to the cutoff switch. I crimped the wires as hard as I could but useing parts house taiwan blue & yellow connectors which are cheap/poor quality. Today I went to solder them in addition to the crimping but my very small soldering iron could not get hot enough. I can get a larger iron or am I go to go as is?

What exactly are you attempting to solder with an iron that is too small? If it's the cheap blue and yellow connectors, a small iron would easily be sufficient but you'd want to remove the plastic insulation on them and then use your own heat shrink.

If you're trying to solder battery connectors, you'll have better luck using a torch. When using a torch to solder a metal connector, hold the torch to the connector until you see a dull color drift across the connector. At that point the connector is ready for solder.
 
good comprehensive info, I will make some changes! what fuses should I use for the gauge lights/electric water temp/oil psi gauges & use a fusible link? If so what/where to get?
 
good comprehensive info, I will make some changes! what fuses should I use for the gauge lights/electric water temp/oil psi gauges & use a fusible link? If so what/where to get?

Go to mymopar.com and download the service manual for your car. The back of the electrical chapter will have the fuse sizes. You can get fuses at any parts store.
 
my 64 dart service manual did not show em & I couldn't navigate the mymopar site (computer newbie). I will stay on it. EDIT I was able to get into the contents page of the 73 dart service manual & specs are on page 114 & no way I can scroll down for that long & I cant find the function to do it automatically. I'll keep trying. MORE EDIT, got it (accidently!) thank you.
 
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it shows everything is 20 amps & the cluster lights are 5 ohms. what about a fusible link? (or circuit breaker).
 
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