What oil has zinc now?

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68383GTS said:
Holy Cow this thread again.I am kind of sorry I started it.LOL Jim
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Jump in help us wrap it then! LOL!

2shelbys said:
Amsoil is sold in some strores around here.
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That I could live with. I'd have to move to Maryland then. lol

What is the name of the store that you know for sure that it sells at?

Maybe if there is a location around here then I will order it from them and therefore I won't have to pay shipping. I mean it's not a big deal but when it's time to change the oil then I would like to know my options.
 
I really liked this thread and the ones before it. They helped me with choosing good products for break in. Is this thread a sticky yet?? Lots of good links too.

I used the Rotella and the Lucas Cam break-in oil additive for my 360.

Post break in I run the off-road VR-1 since they have it at my local Carquest.
 
napa carries the valvoline VR-1 and a loacl mom and pop auto parts store gets it for me,,cheaper then summit or jegs,, and no shipping charge,,last time i priced napa,, they were the cheapest,,jegs was the highest per quart,,then the shipping from jegs ,,,now il look in to this zddp additive and get some,,
 
fstfish66 said:
napa carries the valvoline VR-1 and a loacl mom and pop auto parts store gets it for me,,cheaper then summit or jegs,, and no shipping charge,,last time i priced napa,, they were the cheapest,,jegs was the highest per quart,,then the shipping from jegs ,,,now il look in to this zddp additive and get some,,
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What do you mean a local mom and pop auto parts store gets it for me? Mom and pop work at NAPA? I can get the VR-1 at Advance Auto here in town.

This is the additive I put in my car.

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?input=oil+additive&SM=1&SC=

3404spdvaliant said:
Schaeffers supreme 7000 racing oil zinc content=.1519

Free shipping with orders of $250 or more, it's like $4 a qt or $48+tx a case.
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I know that is some good stuff but was wanting something that I wouldn't have to order. As of right now I buy ZR-1 at the store and buy a additive online. It would be cool to just buy the oil at a local store and be done with it like a regular oil change on daily drivers. f

I guess the main question here is that I/we can get oil that has zinc in it like the before mention Kendall, VR-1 at the local stores but how much is enough zinc? I added a additive to my oil because I don't trust just using the oil out of the bottle. It would suck to find out that I really don't need the additive in first place. Then all this was a waste of time and I could have what I wanted .... to buy the oil and not have to order it. lol
 
Just buy oil and put in a bottle of engine break in additive, I use Comp Cams #159, costs me about $13 here in Canada, probably be about $9 in the US, buy it over the counter, no ordering or shipping required.
 
a mom and pop auto parts store,,, like old times,, not a major chain like auto zone or advance or pep boys,, i use sae 30, i do not use a multiy grade oil,,i read in the mopar race manual, to use a straight grade,,i broke in the motor on sae 30 and thats whats stays in this motor,, no one carries sae 30 VR-1 on the shelf, i order it at my local mom and pop auto parts store,,auto zone pep boys doent have the time of day for guys like me,,,if they cant get a nin number they cant sell you parts,,

jegs has sae 30 VR-1 4.99 A quart,plus shiping, i buy it localy no shiping 4 bucks a quart,,big difference,,major chain auto parts stores SUCK,,,
 
mullinax95 said:
Jump in help us wrap it then! LOL!




That I could live with. I'd have to move to Maryland then. lol

What is the name of the store that you know for sure that it sells at?

Maybe if there is a location around here then I will order it from them and therefore I won't have to pay shipping. I mean it's not a big deal but when it's time to change the oil then I would like to know my options.
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There stuff is sold at all Salvo Auto Parts locations.
 
So then if synthetic isn't recommended for break-in, what would be the best choice? Good-quality conventional oil + break-in additive? And then just use Amsoil or another synthetic with good ZDDP levels after a couple thousand miles?
 
mullinax95 said:
What do you mean a local mom and pop auto parts store gets it for me? Mom and pop work at NAPA? I can get the VR-1 at Advance Auto here in town.

This is the additive I put in my car.

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?input=oil+additive&SM=1&SC=




I know that is some good stuff but was wanting something that I wouldn't have to order. As of right now I buy ZR-1 at the store and buy a additive online. It would be cool to just buy the oil at a local store and be done with it like a regular oil change on daily drivers. f

I guess the main question here is that I/we can get oil that has zinc in it like the before mention Kendall, VR-1 at the local stores but how much is enough zinc? I added a additive to my oil because I don't trust just using the oil out of the bottle. It would suck to find out that I really don't need the additive in first place. Then all this was a waste of time and I could have what I wanted .... to buy the oil and not have to order it. lol
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When I mentioned that I used 20W 50 Kendall GToil I thought I was just saying just that. You can buy it at Advance Auto and I've proven after 4 years of street driving and 100 plus passes at the track that it was enough to keep my engine from failing. Jayson
 
jysnflem said:
When I mentioned that I used 20W 50 Kendall GToil I thought I was just saying just that. You can buy it at Advance Auto and I've proven after 4 years of street driving and 100 plus passes at the track that it was enough to keep my engine from failing. Jayson
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Yes kendal gt oil is better than average, it's what I ran when I was out of schaeffers, it's good stuff.
Not to be jockin schaeffer, anymore then I already have, but I noticed a cooler running [all around freeway/drivethru's etc] engine and maintained more oil pressure [8psi more] after long blasts down the freeway then with the kendal and even more then with mobil,valvoline,castrol,etc.

I can buy kendal gt 20-50w at the local speed shop for $4 & change here in oside at Smokey's
 
I always used Valvoline to break in my cams and never had problem until this past summer. I used VR-1 20W-50 and wiped a lobe. It turns out that there are two formulations of VR-1. "Not Street Legal" and regular VR-1. I used the latter.

On cam number 2 I used straight SL rated 30W Rotell and Hughes Engines break in additive. After cam break in I changed the oil and filter, again with the SL rated Rotell straight weight and Hughes additive. No problems and the cam is still good to go.

Now it's winter and I need to change to a multi-viscocity oil. I will change to Valvoline regular VR1 in 10W 40 and again add the Hughes stuff. In a 1000 more miles I will swap to Royal Purple full synthetic as long as no leaks show up (**** happens and RP is very expensive, so are cams by the way, :) ).

RP also has a new break in oil but I have no experience with it. http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html

I want to add that I still have no problems with Valvoline products. Only one lobe wiped and I still wonder if it really was oil related.

Roller cams for me from here on out. It's probably cheaper in the long run than all these additives.
 
ramcharger, The Hughes additive is what the machinist recommended also and the Rotella oil. Thanks for an A-OK vote......Hope to be starting up soon....lol.....

Is it the same bottle I posted a pic of in post #110 of this thread?
 
6pk2goDemon said:
ramcharger, The Hughes additive is what the machinist recommended also and the Rotella oil. Thanks for an A-OK vote......Hope to be starting up soon....lol.....

Is it the same bottle I posted a pic of in post #110 of this thread?
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Yep, that's the stuff!
 
ram charger,,,question about wiping your cam ???

im not trying to be a know it all,, was the cam a hyd ? or solid??

i have a friend that installed a new mopar cam, hyd,,but he made the common mistake of soaking the lifters in oil before installing,,that was his problem,, im sure that wasnt your mistake,, just curious,,, if wiping your cam was just a isolated problem,, maybe not oil related as you said,,
 
ted_sweet said:
Why? almost all of it is also rated for gasoline engines.
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From what I know the diesel oils have a lot of other 'ingredients' that are nesessary for a diesel but not so great for or unnesessary for gasoline engines.

Heck just ask machine shops or run whatever you wanna run and learn what works and what hurts, then come back and tell us all about it.
 
I've broke in plenty of flat tappets with 20-50w VR-1 valvoline.
The last one after tear down had a tint of blue[hot] and only with 300psi open pressure [cast iron flat tappet] thats with VR-1.
think what you will of it.

The issue is longevity with the flat tappet cams, kinda like do I run spring pressures on the high side on the street and wear the cam faster, or do I run on the low side and take away that insurance in high rpm's for a longer lasting lobe? = cam wear, fast or slow.IMO
 
fstfish66 said:
ram charger,,,question about wiping your cam ???

im not trying to be a know it all,, was the cam a hyd ? or solid??

i have a friend that installed a new mopar cam, hyd,,but he made the common mistake of soaking the lifters in oil before installing,,that was his problem,, im sure that wasnt your mistake,, just curious,,, if wiping your cam was just a isolated problem,, maybe not oil related as you said,,
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Sorry it took so long to respond. It was a hydraulic flat tappet. Nope, didn't soak the lifters and lubed the lifters sides with synthetic 10W-40 to promote rotation. Used the very heavy cam break in grease on the lobes and lifter foot that came with the cam. Primed the oil pump before start up. I have plenty of oil pressure (70 psi @ 2500+ rpm under load on the road hot :) )

The cam was a very mild Crane with about 310 lbs open on the springs. I swapped it out for a Lunati that was a touch milder and used the same springs. Dropped the oil pan, cleaned out the pump stabbed in the Lunati and degreed it, broke it in with the aforementioned oil and additive and have had no problems since. I've got some pics of the cam somwhere the board, I'll post a link if I find it. I caught the problem before it got really bad. When I measured the lobe, it had lost only about .020 off the top. It still sucked though. Man what a pain in the ***.
 
Hi all, sorry to make some of you revisit this...:read2: after reading this entire thread I was just as confused as some of the others here. To make things simple, can one just use the "oil of choice" off the shelf at any Autozone, Napa, Advance, etc. and just add some GM EOS to help with the zinc issue?

If so, how much EOS is added per oil change?

The above seems like a simple solution to everyone's problem, get any ole' oil you want (any oil) and then swing by your local Chevrolet dealer for a bottle of EOS. No Shipping, No waiting, No worries.....

This is under the assumption the new EOS has the Zinc content we need??..Is this a good choice?
 
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