What relays have you added?

[rod7515]

Im starting to plan my rewiring of my 66 Dart project. I'll be moving the battery to the trunk and rewiring everything out under the hood. I bought new terminals for the bulk head connector as well as wire. I've gotten some good suggestions from a few members so far. I was wondering if I am missing anything as I plan what I want/need to do.
I will be adding a disconnect switch in the trunk as well. I am no wiring guru but I should be able to work thru this. I know its not a one day job. Thus the reason to start planning ahead! So here's the additions I think I need to add. Relays to operate the fuel pump, dual electric fans, Headlight kit, ignition box. I'm sure I am missing something. I will be adding an addition fuse panel for the relays. I haven't figured out if I can put the relays up under the dash or if I need to put them in the engine compartment under where the battery used to be. I would also like to put the coil and ignition box underneath the dash as well. I am thinking the fuel pump relay could go in the trunk closer to the fuel pump instead of with the other relays. Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts of a direction I should look into or a circuit I am forgetting.
Thanks Rod

 

[Mopar Tim]

You are looking at a big job. IMO how a wiring job looks is just as important as how it works. You dont need large gauge wiring to control relays, 14-16 will be ok. All these wires are powering is the coil in the relay. Should solder connections, stay away from crimp on connectors. We all have seen honked up wiring projects that, it seems, got away from the guy doing the work. Got too Big for there ideas. Keep it neat and tidy. Every wire should be cut to the correct length. When done, it should look like factory wiring harness. Work on one circuit at a time, you dont need complete circuit but you need to have wiring where it needs to be. All the wiring needs to be ran together, within reason. Dont be afraid to un tape and add a new circuit if you need to. Keep relays under dash IMO. And all wiring that goes into the engine bay needs to be ran thru bulkhead connector. the hardest wiring in the early A bodies is the turn and brake light circuit. I would not touch these, leave them as is but maybe with new wires. Good luck.

 

[rod7515]

Yes I understand this will be a big job. Neat is one of the reasons I am tackling an entire rewire along with so many things that will be changing to a more modern way with the relays. I hope to hide most of the wiring. I've bought soldering paste and plan on soldering all connections. Wires already bought so I'm looking for ideas that may save time and effort.
Thanks for the response.
Rod

 

[67Dart273]

Also keep in mind "what you can do" with relays

EG electric pump, you can put a hidden switch in the ground wire of your pump relay, for anti-theft.

Years and years ago, a friend of mine had a security circuit in his pickup you had to get in and send the letter "K" with your foot before starting the engine (dah di dah)

 

[Mopar Tim]

Some guys think a row of relays, or a row of connections on a terminal strip looks good under the hood. It really does not, IMO Less is better, I would get a nice spade type fuse block from the wreaking yard cut wires as long as I could and use that. splice and solder wires, not splice wiring at the fuse block. Heat shrink on soldered connections. It can be done nice, or it can look like crap. Hide everything you can. O yea, stagger connections so you dont have a big bunch of wire connections in one spot.

 

[67Dart273]

On my 67, which is admittedly different, I bought a Mustang (cable operated) vent box and cut it off right below the butterfly to replace the Mopar cowl vent. The original MAY go to the pass side.

Then I got a couple of Jeep relay / fuse centers off ebay, tore them apart and combined parts of them, and mounted it and the Holley HP up on the left kick panel. I "homemade" a bracket for the thing out of "L" brackets

 

[jbc426]

I've got headlight relays from Crackedback on both my Mopars. Sweet upgrades. I have a single relay for my EFI surge tank mounted fuel pump along with a factor Mopar fuel pump relay for my pusher pump on the '68.

On my '70, I have a pair of 40 amp relays powering the fuel pump via an oil pressure cutoff switch and a bypass circuit to prime the pump. That car also has dual 40 amp relays for the electric fans. Then there are the relays for the A/C system. Relays are a good thing.

 

[mderoy340]

AC system blower motor relays will take the load off your fan speed switch.

 

[Mopar Tim]

I've got headlight relays from Crackedback on both my Mopars. Sweet upgrades. I have a single relay for my EFI surge tank mounted fuel pump along with a factor Mopar fuel pump relay for my pusher pump on the '68.

On my '70, I have a pair of 40 amp relays powering the fuel pump via an oil pressure cutoff switch and a bypass circuit to prime the pump. That car also has dual 40 amp relays for the electric fans. Then there are the relays for the A/C system. Relays are a good thing.

You dont need to buy "upgrade" It is simple to do your self if you are going to do a complete rewire not using a wiring harness. Like i said it is a big job. His kit is top notch as far as I can see. I wont be using it, I will do wiring modifications myself. Great Idea.

 

[crackedback]

AC system blower motor relays will take the load off your fan speed switch.

That's next on the list of relay upgrades I hope to provide.

People are welcome to do this all at home. Some of it comes down to what is your time worth in an area that may provide some discomfort. Just buy quality products and don't skimp on wire size. Use a good crimper/open barrel connectors and soldering is not necessary except under special circumstances. I've rarely seen a well crimped open barrel style connector pulled out. You have to really tug on them to get them out.

Electrical scares a lot of people, it's that simple. Find the approach that works for you and run with it.

 

[Mopar Tim]

That's next on the list of relay upgrades I hope to provide.

People are welcome to do this all at home. Some of it comes down to what is your time worth in an area that may provide some discomfort. Just buy quality products and don't skimp on wire size. Use a good crimper/open barrel connectors and soldering is not necessary except under special circumstances. I've rarely seen a well crimped open barrel style connector pulled out. You have to really tug on them to get them out.

Electrical scares a lot of people, it's that simple. Find the approach that works for you and run with it.

Well stated:cheers: I like soldered connections because it makes a smaller dia. connection.

 

[jimjimjimmy]

if your gonna soldier I recommend tossing the paste and use a soft high lead rosin core soldier it will melt at a lower temp and not wick as bad . like tv/ radio . there are many write up's saying crimping is better but each to their own .

 

[RealWing]

I"m doing something similar, with the battery in the trunk. I've added relays under the hood for electric fan #1, fan #2, high beams, low beams and the AC clutch. In the trunk, I mounted the fuel pump relay and up/down relays for the convertible top.

 

[rod7515]

Some great suggestions and advice so far. "Realwing" your trunk is super clean looking. I hope I can do something close to that! Very nice. I like the idea of a relay for the blower motor. I never even thought about that. Crackedback, I cant read your posts because I get caught up watching the signature pic and it takes me 2 hours or more to re focus! lol I keep thinking I'll see more if I keep watching! I'm not scared to take on this rewire task but I want to have a good laid out plan going in so I don't end up redoing things over and over again. I think my plan of attack will be to wire everything using extra lengths then start it up and make sure everything works as it should. then run each circuit in hidden locations. I've purchased the non adhesive tape for wrapping so I think I'm pretty well set. Going to be about 3 mores weeks before I am to that point. Looking forward to any additional advice or suggestions.
Thanks everyone
Rod

 

[BillGrissom]

In my 2 A's, I used an underhood relay/fuse box from a 95-99 Jeep. Later boxes started using connectors so harder to wire. I have a detailed post if you search.

 

[BillGrissom]

AC system blower motor relays will take the load off your fan speed switch.

Agree. Long-ago I put a relay on the "blower high" output of my 65 Newport and 69 Dart. Both had melted/jammed push-button (pneumo-electric) and "blower-speed"' switches. Good luck sourcing those today. The "M" and "L" positions are less needy of relays since they have series resistors to limit current. Not a Mopar thing. In my 1980's M-B cars, I put a relay to power the "blower control" box direct off the battery (via fuse). Those owners commonly find the #8 fuse holder (blower) melted. High current plus a little contact corrosion can generate heat that melts plastic without being enough current to blow the fuse.

 

[tanis4457]

If your going to use relays, spend a little extra and get some of the Bosch/Tyco relays. I use them at work and have never had one fail yet.

Some people like to solder vs crimp connections and vice versa, personally I've never had a crimp connection fail. I always just double crimp what I'm working on. On a good set of crimpers like Klein, you'll notice theres a crimp for insulated and non insulated crimps, this is very useful to make sure the crimp is correct for the type of connector your using.

Also if your using heatshrink over a crimp on a part of the car that might see the weather, get some heatshrink with an adhesive liner inside. It will kind of melt out as the heatshink reduces itself, makes for a nice watertight connection.

Here's a link the heatshrink at digikey http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/EPS-200%201%2F4%22BL%2048%22BX/EPS2014-ND/260263

 

[crackedback]

If your going to use relays, spend a little extra and get some of the Bosch/Tyco relays. I use them at work and have never had one fail yet.

Some people like to solder vs crimp connections and vice versa, personally I've never had a crimp connection fail. I always just double crimp what I'm working on. On a good set of crimpers like Klein, you'll notice theres a crimp for insulated and non insulated crimps, this is very useful to make sure the crimp is correct for the type of connector your using.

Good post here!

Totally agree on the Tyco/Bosch relays. Only relays I ever use in my products.

The good Klein crimpers are a great tool. If you are using a set of $5 autozone crimpers, you are missing out on a REALLY good crimp. Crimping doesn't introduce a potential fracture post where the solder ends. High vibration environments can work harden where the solder ends and the connection is lost or you start to lose strands in the feed.

 

[rod7515]

Thanks for the info. Was wondering where you purchase your bosch/tyco brand relays. I went to the local parts house yesterday and ask about mountable relays but all he found was the ones that plug into a relay box as most cars have today. Also how many terminals are on the relay. 4 or 5? I thought there was a ground, trigger input, 12v feed and 12v to accessory. all of his were 5 terminal.
Rod

 

[crackedback]

Different electrical end user units require different relays for the purpose. It's an impossible question to answer, other than car style relays generally have 4 or 5 terminals.

Go to the tyco/bosch site, there should be a breakdown of relays and their specifications.

I buy from a location that requires a multi-hundred purchase order for each specific relay.

 

[tnts72]

I have added 4 relays to this 72. Two for the headlights, one under the hood to provide 12 volts switched ignition for the hei distributor and one behind the instrument cluster in the car to power the autometer dash / stereo / shift light etc...

Typical Bosch relay part number 0 332 019 150 for example. I order them off eBay for about $7 each.

Terminal 30: main power feed
Terminal 85: ground
Terminal 86: switch
Terminal 87: NO output
Terminal 87A: NC output (center pin)

When you apply 12 volts to terminal 86 the coil energizes and you have a direct path from terminal 30/87 via the relay contacts. When you disconnect the 12 volt signal from 86, terminal 87A will then be connected to terminal 30.

 

[pauly v.100]

I used five 30a relays in a Bussman box from Wiredwheel and left it exposed along with the fan controller and MSD box. I would rather have easy access if needed.
Fused relays for fuel pump, one for each fan, low beams and high beams. The amp has its power supplied from the battery out back.
The Wiredwheel box was set up for offroaders so its airtight, overall its a really nice piece though it sits a little taller than I'd like.

 

[mguner]

I had to add a relay for the A/C clutch coil circuit when I converted to the Denso compressor from a 95 Intrepid because it was too much current for the switch in the dash (as was the stock unit actually). I would also like to add relays for the headlights and ignition as well.

 

[mderoy340]

I had to add a relay for the A/C clutch coil circuit when I converted to the Denso compressor from a 95 Intrepid because it was too much current for the switch in the dash (as was the stock unit actually). I would also like to add relays for the headlights and ignition as well.

Did that compressor come with a V Belt pulley?

 

[BillGrissom]

I had to add a relay for the A/C clutch coil circuit when I converted to the Denso compressor ...

Good idea. All my 1984 & up vehicles have a relay for the AC clutch. I did that in my two A's and easy since the 95-99 Jeep relay box I use has 7 relays, though I recall wishing there was 1 more for something (washer pump?). When the clutch coil switches off, it generates a strong spark. Not ideal to have that run thru your expensive and rare push-button switch.