Whats Better

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JGC403

JGC403

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I am planning ahead for my '68 Barracuda project. I want to put manual steering in the car. I was looking around and there are some people going to rack and pinion. I want this car to handle a lot better than it did from the factory.
Is R&P that much better than a manual steering box?
Is it worth going to R&P on a street car?
 
Has anyone switched from a manual box to rack and pinion and have an opinion?
 
A R&P is nice…… If you don't like the factory system. It also reduces weight vs the factory set up.

But, it will not make your car handle better alone.

I'm happy with the factory system so the idea of R&P has never crossed my mind.
 
Many modifications are required. The steering arms must be turned into the forward location. Mounting of the rack is/must be in the front. The steering column shaft will need to be modified as well. With all this mentioned it is a "plus" as far as steering and handling are concerned. If you are going to run a small block, it will work well, if you're going to run a big block, not much will help the handling, they simply "plow" thru corners. In my opinion too much weight out front. Pick your poison! I run the CAP "complete" rack under my Dart and would not switch back. It is a weight savings and handles well. Check out the web site! [CAP autoproducts.com] They have worked hard at working out any/all bugs associated with the change over! As you look at the Dart, please notice NO bump steer issues, the "toe" is straight throughout the entire suspension travel. From maximum jounce to maximum rebound the wheels are straight. This helps the handling not only for straight line driving but cornering as well! Good luck w/your choice.
 

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1968FormulaS340 said:
A R&P is nice…… If you don't like the factory system. It also reduces weight vs the factory set up.

But, it will not make your car handle better alone.

I'm happy with the factory system so the idea of R&P has never crossed my mind.
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much better way to put than i said!
 
Rob Eppler said:
Many modifications are required. The steering arms must be turned into the forward location. Mounting of the rack is/must be in the front. The steering column shaft will need to be modified as well. With all this mentioned it is a "plus" as far as steering and handling are concerned. If you are going to run a small block, it will work well, if you're going to run a big block, not much will help the handling, they simply "plow" thru corners. In my opinion too much weight out front. Pick your poison! I run the CAP "complete" rack under my Dart and would not switch back. It is a weight savings and handles well. Check out the web site! [CAP autoproducts.com] They have worked hard at working out any/all bugs associated with the change over! As you look at the Dart, please notice NO bump steer issues, the "toe" is straight throughout the entire suspension travel. From maximum jounce to maximum rebound the wheels are straight. This helps the handling not only for straight line driving but cornering as well! Good luck w/your choice.
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how much was the cap system to your door if i might ask?
 
Thanks, for the input. I don't know what the factory steering feels like to me, bought the car without a drivetrain. About how much weight does it save over the factory manual steering box?
 
Yeah R&P is nice.... more header clearance also if I'm not mistaken.

Nice looking cuda Rob!!!
 
In my opinion the weight savings would be insignificant and not justify the cost for a street car.

Now if your build plan has a 3-5 thousand dollar budget for suspension (not counting wheels and tires), that is another story.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
In my opinion the weight savings would be insignificant and not justify the cost for a street car.

Now if your build plan has a 3-5 thousand dollar budget for suspension (not counting wheels and tires), that is another story.
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I don't really have a budget. I know the car isn't going to be on the road for years. I build it as I get money for it.
 
JGC403 said:
I don't really have a budget. I know the car isn't going to be on the road for years. I build it as I get money for it.
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Well then my advise would be keep it simple and don't do any big mods.

Replace worn stock components and only worry about stuff you need to get it on the road.


You don't need all the latest and greatest stuff to enjoy a cool car, but you do need it to run and drive.
 
I'd say just stick with the manual box. The R&P isn't gonna help your handling really in a big block car, its like riding with a fat chick under the hood snuggling with a small block, quite a weight difference which effects weight distribution. Work with what you got unless you gots lots o time and money is what I have to say. And really, the manual steering isn't that bad that its one of those things thats gotta go like drum brakes
 
DarTT said:
I'd say just stick with the manual box. The R&P isn't gonna help your handling really in a big block car, its like riding with a fat chick under the hood snuggling with a small block, quite a weight difference which effects weight distribution. Work with what you got unless you gots lots o time and money is what I have to say. And really, the manual steering isn't that bad that its one of those things thats gotta go like drum brakes
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i dont think ive heard of a big block refered to as a "fat chicken"....
 
DarTT said:
I'd say just stick with the manual box. The R&P isn't gonna help your handling really in a big block car, its like riding with a fat chick under the hood snuggling with a small block, quite a weight difference which effects weight distribution. Work with what you got unless you gots lots o time and money is what I have to say. And really, the manual steering isn't that bad that its one of those things thats gotta go like drum brakes
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Yea I think I will use the manual box for now. When I am done with the 383 it should weight close to the same if not less than a production small block. Plus moving the battery to the back and anything else I can think of the car should have better weight distribution than a production small block car.
 
JGC403 said:
Yea I think I will use the manual box for now. When I am done with the 383 it should weight close to the same if not less than a production small block. Plus moving the battery to the back and anything else I can think of the car should have better weight distribution than a production small block car.
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Aluminum heads or what? Just curious how you are gonna drop 90lbs off an engine. Not doubting it can be done, just wondering how

273-340 V8 525

361-383-400 V8 620
 
DarTT said:
273-340 V8 525

361-383-400 V8 620
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Is the engine weights above just the engine or does it include all of the accessories to? Because most of the accessories will be gone to, no power steering pump, no AC, Basically the only thing the engine will be turning is the alternator.

Aluminum heads, intake and water pump (probably electric). Fuel injection should drop a couple of lbs. Dropped a pound in the rotating assembly. There was something else but I can't remember right now. Headers should be a little lighter than the exhaust manifolds.
 
JGC403 said:
Is the engine weights above just the engine or does it include all of the accessories to? Because most of the accessories will be gone to, no power steering pump, no AC, Basically the only thing the engine will be turning is the alternator.

Aluminum heads, intake and water pump (probably electric). Fuel injection should drop a couple of lbs. Dropped a pound in the rotating assembly. There was something else but I can't remember right now. Headers should be a little lighter than the exhaust manifolds.
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Aluminum pulleys? Oil pump relocation? fuel pump relocation? Aircleaner being gone probably dropped a couple oz's too.

I think that is both of them fully loaded.

I really would like to see this workout. big block car that can handle.:-D You will probably drop a half a pound if you used a TQ and tuned it right, you'd be getting decent mpg too, for a 383 that is
 
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