When do you need subframe connectors

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How much would adding tq boxes help if there already SUB connectors on the car?
 
here is the hard way cutting it to fit the floorboard.
jim
 

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How much would adding tq boxes help if there already SUB connectors on the car?

Good question. I'd like to Herr the opinions on that also.


well we installed them on the landy car clone were building with connectors and a big cage...

i dont think they would do much but they must have done it for a reason!!
 
How much would adding tq boxes help if there already SUB connectors on the car?

Torque boxes tie the subframes to the rocker boxes and add to the overall torsional rigidity of the chassis. Probably makes the greatest difference between opposite corners (diagonally accross the chassis). When used in conjunction with frame connectors stiffening the floorpan area, you're essentially using the frame connectors and rocker boxes to build horizontal trusses through the floor area at the sides of the chassis and greatly improve the entire floor area's resistance to deforming under load.
 
Torque boxes tie the subframes to the rocker boxes and add to the overall torsional rigidity of the chassis. Probably makes the greatest difference between opposite corners (diagonally accross the chassis). When used in conjunction with frame connectors stiffening the floorpan area, you're essentially using the frame connectors and rocker boxes to build horizontal trusses through the floor area at the sides of the chassis and greatly improve the entire floor area's resistance to deforming under load.

Thus increasing the the stability of the chassis and helping performance more than without them?
 
IMO, if you put subframe connectors on, installing torque boxes will provide only marginal benefit. Not worth the effort to install TB's and I never install them on cars getting SF connectors.

No subframe connectors, torque boxes make a bigger difference.
 
IMO, if you put subframe connectors on, installing torque boxes will provide only marginal benefit. Not worth the effort to install TB's and I never install them on cars getting SF connectors.

No subframe connectors, torque boxes make a bigger difference.

You probably feel this way because the addition of front and rear torque boxes make the rocker boxes defacto frame connectors.
 
Wouldn't it be best to drill a couple drain holes in the bottom of the weld in connectors (not the tube style) to drain water out. Spraying undercoating or rust proofing should be a good idea also.
 
You probably feel this way because the addition of front and rear torque boxes make the rocker boxes defacto frame connectors.

No

My 4 speed Dart has torque boxes and the addition of frame connectors made a HUGE difference in rigidity. The torque boxes don't do much, better than nothing, yes. A viable solution sans connectors... No way!
 
It creaks and crackled after you put the suspension and frame connectors on? That's weird. You would think it would make less noise now because the body is tighter.

I've been thinking that the louder "squeaks" and body noises went away and now I am hearing the "quieter" ones that were covered up by them:yawinkle:

The Hotchkiss system has stiffer leaf springs and had to be "re-mounted" at both ends and the perch so I think that is where the creaking is coming from.
The noises are worth it for the improvement in the handling, it really is like a different car.
Joe, I am sure you feel the same way after the Alterktion and RMS rear suspension changes to your car. I LOVE your car man, everything about it screams Bad ***!
 
just had my frame tied together just waiting to get better to finish my dart my driverside door striker cracked because i didnt have them on before now but was adviced to add them after i built a 500 plus hp 416 stroker to get them installed bolt in right now will be welded later im new to welding so i have to learn that trade first
 
It's on my list of thing to do with the C-bod '71 New Yorker. Frame connectors are never a bad idea if you like a car that feels tight and strong.
 
here is the hard way cutting it to fit the floorboard.
jim

That looks really nice, and keeps the stock floor contours in the interior. Nice job.

My 2 cents is that I did my connectors like the article on bigblockdart. If I had to do it again, I would go lighter than the 1/8 wall tubing I used. That's overkill and just adds weight, IMO.
 
According to an article at Auto Rust Technicians, Torque Boxes and Subframe connectors increase stiffness by 20%.

In my opinion the stiffer the frame structure, the softer the springs can be for a given level of handling. Thus, I plan to not only add sub frame connectors and torque boxes, but to stiffen the front structure I plan to add inner fender braces and a lower radiator support from XV Motor sports.

http://www.xvmotorsports.com/products/detail/index.cfm?nPID=298&cid=40&cdesc=A-Body Products

http://www.xvmotorsports.com/products/detail/index.cfm?nPID=20&cid=40&cdesc=A-Body Products

XV also has a video of a before and after chassis stiffening.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
I've been thinking that the louder "squeaks" and body noises went away and now I am hearing the "quieter" ones that were covered up by them:yawinkle:

The Hotchkiss system has stiffer leaf springs and had to be "re-mounted" at both ends and the perch so I think that is where the creaking is coming from.
The noises are worth it for the improvement in the handling, it really is like a different car.
Joe, I am sure you feel the same way after the Alterktion and RMS rear suspension changes to your car. I LOVE your car man, everything about it screams Bad ***!

could you have a brake line or something thats hitting something and causing the noise?
 
...I would go lighter than the 1/8 wall tubing I used.
If you're doing it integrated with the floor I might agree. Otherwise, simply connecting front to rear is a fairly long distance for a piece of structural steel that size to span and I would view 1/8" wall as the minimum thickness to use.
 
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