When do you need subframe connectors

-

michformulaS

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 14, 2005
Messages
818
Reaction score
44
Location
Midland Michigan
I have been driving my 68 Formula S with its 416 for a couple years now. Built and fully ported by Lapouttre racing at that time following a 10 second build he did earlier that year. It has a 3.23 open 8 3/4 so I haven't been too concerned with the torque this thing makes. The right rear just goes up in smoke (even at 55). I am thinking of putting a sure grip, locker or such in it and some 3.91's. A torque strap is a must as I think I am already ready to tear this out but at what point will I be risking things if I don't have sub frame connectors? I am sure I need some trans mods as well. Please let me know what you think.

Thanks
 
connectors will help with any car. even a 6 cyl car. these cars are lose as hell. you would be surprised how much they will stiffen up a car..
 
A bodyman friend of mine who once did a lot of frame work told me that "Mopars move around worse than any other car."
 
connectors will help with any car. even a 6 cyl car. these cars are lose as hell. you would be surprised how much they will stiffen up a car..

Yup, I just installed some this past winter, the difference is night and day. With your build once you get that thing hookin up you will want them.
 
If I may hi jack:toothy7: I have always thought of this mod as well.So who would like to give some how toossss to do this,like should the car be on very level ground and on jack stands ? pics would be an asset as well.thanks.
 
i think they should be installed on any mopar you buy for any use...

it can help door latches/ strikers and hinges....

but its really easy...

just close all the doors, put jack stands under the front and rear sub frames (out of the way of the location of the bars)

then fit and weld them in...

just flare one end out so it will fit around the torsion bar cross member and 45* cut the other to meet up with the angle of the rear sub frame...

dont have a rear pic right now
 

Attachments

  • 101_4396.JPG
    108 KB · Views: 942
  • 101_4401.JPG
    153.6 KB · Views: 862
I haven't installed them but I'm planning on it. There has been many posts here about them and what they do and everybody raves about them once they're installed. With the big mill you have under the hood I think you should install a set. Keep us posted on your progress. toolman
 
I would do it regardless of the build, it gives support to the frame and eliminates any sag in the car.
 
Let me look for the thread pettybludart did in his 66 Dart
With that power plant and a sure grip you will twist it and come back the return lane on three tires :blackeye: yes I have seen it happen :toothy7:
it is on my to do list for my /6 66 Valiant.
 
If I may hi jack:toothy7: I have always thought of this mod as well.So who would like to give some how toossss to do this,like should the car be on very level ground and on jack stands ? pics would be an asset as well.thanks.

Yes, you want the car level and supported as if the weight is on the wheels. Level is very important; actually use a level to make sure. I put mine on the top of the rocker with the door open and kept adjusting. Then move to your side to side leveling, this is a little harder as it's tough to find a spot to put the level. Double and triple check everything before you start welding. The last thing you want is your doors not closing properly after you are done.

I used 1 1/2 X 3 X 3/16 tubing. Measure from the front cross member to about 8” back on the rear frame rail. Cut to length. Measure from the front cross member to where the top of the rear frame rail starts (the beveled area). Measure the top of the tube with the second measurement and mark it. Cut the top of the tube out(I cut along the sides to remove the web too) now test fit. Once you are satisfied with the fit, clean everything up on the car.
Weld a piece of flat bar on the front of the tube where it connects to the cross member leaving about an inch on each side. Test fit again, it may be necessary to remove the thickness of the flat bar from the top of the notch on the rear so the bar will go up tight. Weld it up. You might even consider spraying some weldable primer on these spots beforehand.
I tacked the front good and solid then went to the back and using a bottle jack under the tube pressed it up tight to the frame, and tacked. Once I was happy with the placement I welded it up solid.
Clean the welds and prime as soon as they are cooled.
This may not be the preferred method, but it serves the purpose and total cost was 30 bucks.
The car rides and handles MUCH better. When I jack up the car from under the rear frame rail now it will lift the whole side of the car.


Hope this helps!
 

Attachments

  • Location2AR.jpg
    103.9 KB · Views: 689
  • Location2A.jpg
    113.7 KB · Views: 683
  • Location2.jpg
    127.1 KB · Views: 700
  • Location1A.jpg
    102.6 KB · Views: 751
  • Location1.jpg
    117.5 KB · Views: 730
  • FC2.jpg
    132.2 KB · Views: 730
  • FC1.jpg
    129.2 KB · Views: 731
Yes MeMike,I,ve done 2 of my cars and advise anybody with a certain amount of HP to put them in/on.A friend of mine with a 71 Cuda ragtop,bolt a pair on.He did a really nice job,painted and all.Just go to Metal SuperMarket and pick up some stock tubing and make your own.I did for $23.:yawinkle:
 
They should have been tied from the factory.
 
I wont agree the mopars move around more than any other unibody .
I will agree that even the bolt in type subframe connectors will lessen the movement.
 
I know I wasted a good 66 charger by not haveing them the car was so twisted the front and rear glass leaked so bad you could not drive in the rain.the doors would not close and wen they did evry time i would race they would pop open.that was my first car with a good motor in it the car got so bad I sent it to the crusher.man I loved that car..SO yes get that fram tided together!!!!!!!!!!](*,)](*,)
 
Put on my stroker, nice and tight now. Bolted in, then Welded them. I painted them the body color. ( the zip tie was temporary to hold my fuel line. lol)
 

Attachments

  • 2011-02-26 15.41.03.jpg
    82.7 KB · Views: 709
I don't want to keep beating a dead horse, but sub frame connectors made a world of difference in the way my car rode. Some of the best money I've spent on my dart so far. I did mine on a drive on lift, and although they were bolt on, I had my buddy lay a nice bead down around the edges. We couldn't believe how much better the car drove when we were finished!!
 
Wow very good guyssssssss very impressed.Just got on this morning and now leaving for camping like ya I know Cindy we have to go.So will post back Monday.Thanks.I quickly look through the replys but not in detail.Thanks for the high jack.
 
I installed a complete Hotchkiss system on my 69 Dart. It is a COMPLETELY different car, does not even remotely resemble the way the car handled before I did it.( It's like on a rail now!)
One thing I have noticed is a lot of "creaking" and "crackling" noises. Nothing irritating and just when I go over transitions like a drive way entry or speed bump. My take is that the car can't move where it used to and eventually those noises will go away. (They really aren't alarming ,just a different sound than what I had become accustomed to)
Worth every penny, DO IT!!!!
 
I installed a complete Hotchkiss system on my 69 Dart. It is a COMPLETELY different car, does not even remotely resemble the way the car handled before I did it.( It's like on a rail now!)
One thing I have noticed is a lot of "creaking" and "crackling" noises. Nothing irritating and just when I go over transitions like a drive way entry or speed bump. My take is that the car can't move where it used to and eventually those noises will go away. (They really aren't alarming ,just a different sound than what I had become accustomed to)
Worth every penny, DO IT!!!!


It creaks and crackled after you put the suspension and frame connectors on? That's weird. You would think it would make less noise now because the body is tighter.
 
-
Back
Top