When does money outweigh sentimental value? 1968 notchback build thread

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khuebner250 said:
Radiator support might not be needed, but you're already welding. What's another day of mock up and welding? I'd also suggest having the Kmember seam welded and reinforced. I think u said you're running QA1 uppers and lowers, otherwise I'd say lower control arm reinforcement also.
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My factory K-frame is fully welded and has a few minor mods to clear my oil pan. My radiator support is 2x2 box with corners notched for radiator clearance, nutserts installed for mounting the latch support brace (look at center) and brackets welded for the lower valence attaching points on both ends. I bought a kit... would have been just as well not to. It was a little wide and would have hung down really low, it would have been visible and I didn't like the way it would look. I had the guy doing the fab work section it to the right width and tuck it up to the same height as the factory piece, then had him make notches in it to clear the radiator. It also serves as an extra handy point where I can lift the vehicle or place a jack stand if needed.

Here is a picture during fabrication:
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After paint:
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Latch support and valence bolts on to original locations and the support cannot be seen when the lower valence is installed.
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khuebner250 said:
Radiator support might not be needed, but you're already welding. What's another day of mock up and welding? I'd also suggest having the Kmember seam welded and reinforced. I think u said you're running QA1 uppers and lowers, otherwise I'd say lower control arm reinforcement also.
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I get what your saying, got a qa1 k member, should be solid there
 
Got some stuff starting to roll in. Although I'm going to be waiting awhile for the Trickflow heads and intake. But non the less, some pics.

Canton screen for windage tray and lifter valley.
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Cloyes Tensioner
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King bearings
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Rollmaster billet chain, made in Australia!
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Redrilled filter plate with 8 holes
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ir3333 said:
The way your project is looking i don't think any amount of money spent would be regretted.
That car and colour is beautiful!
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When I read the first post I was trying to think of something to say that would convince you to keep it.... when I jumped to the end it was clear I did not need to say anything! I too have spent way to much on "less desirable" cars and that it what I want to do. If you go into this thinking "will I ever get out what I put into it" then you should sell it before starting! You need to go into in with both feet and say "I am going to make this thing better than new" so when you go out to the garage and take it for a drive you can say to yourself, "yes I spent way more than it is worth but I a proud I saved a 318 or /6 car". You will find there are a lot of people out there that will congratulate you for it. I was offered WAY more than what my Coronet 500 was worth, but about what I have in it, at one show but I turned it down because I have become too attached to it... My daughter and I are now doing a Duster for her. I will have 2x more in it than it is worth but it will be better than new and we don't care. You are doing this right and I will guarantee you will not have second thoughts once you are done! Great job.
 
Dropped off the rotating assembly before Christmas for balancing. Ordered a crank scraper from Ishihara. Got my oil pan and bent radiator.

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Bought heat sink/cooler material also. Just extruded aluminum to make a tranny cooler and maybe a P/S Cooler. Cut to length and radiused. Just waiting to tap them.

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Finally got sick of fighting my SS and sent it out. Came back as good as it could. Apparently, Ma Mopar didn't use the greatest of Stainless in their SS trim. Had him do vent frames, trailing side window and leading quarter trim on the side glass.

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Also got a Trick flow balancer(internal), FlowKooler waterpump, P/S pump, dip stick, B&M flexplate, alternator I'm sending back, etc.

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Windows are next to go in. Regulators are cleaned and ready. Had to order a quarter glass roller kit. I, somehow, am missing 4 1/2 rollers. Also stripped out the driverside vent pivot, because the vent glass wouldn't stay in the channel. So I went and ordered a new Dr pivot and some setting tape for vent windows to channel. Hopefully to hold them in better than the mohair.

Also grabbed a repop drivers mirror and barracuda specific antenna.

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khuebner250 said:
I'm hoping it's money well spent. My buddy has a regular lowpro milodon and it's scraped off the curb a couple of times. It looks nice enough but I may paint it engine color (whatever that's going to be?)
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I ran mine for 5 years without a scratch on it. It sits above the K-frame. That was after literally tearing the drain plug out of a "normal" Milodon deep pan on a section of road that had dropped after a rain.

When I pulled the engine out (to paint the car) and switched heads I painted the engine and the heads Hemi Orange, painted the pan black. The dipstick I used is a Lokar locking style, it has a NPT fitting to attach it to the pan, I had to use a NPT bushing to accommodate since the pan is a larger size hole. The dipstick is a cut to length style, so you fill the pan and make the dipstick the length you need accordingly. I put a brass plug into the factory dipstick hole. The factory dipstick had issues staying in and it also had trouble catching on the windage tray when I pushed it back in, the new one works fine.

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Got the drivers mirror installed. For a 10 minute job, it took forever. Pain in the butt trimming, filing, and making things fit through freshly painted holes. Getting a uniform squish around the seal can be a chore.

This mirror came with a base that goes on the inside of the door. Original didn't have this. Tried to get a pic

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Fitted the front bumper. I had to measure and drill the holes in it. I need to find a place that can vinyl wrap em in chrome. I made the side bumper stabilizers from aluminum to match the Lingenfilter brackets.

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Got my quarter glass rollers. This is 67-69 barracuda notchback kit but I have extras parts.

Any one know where these go?

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Got my non bent radiator the other day. Opened up the cooler lines from 1/8 npt to 1/4 npt with a .375 i.d. Then I installed some compression fittings for Hardlines. Gotta get it mounted and make SS lines around to the aux cooler.

It's a 26" radiator so I'm still in mock up phase. Debating on cutting the support or just leaving the 22" opening.

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I just read thru entire thread, great motivation to keep moving forward. Awesome work and choices you've made!
Congrats and happy new year!
 
khuebner250 said:
Got my non bent radiator the other day. Opened up the cooler lines from 1/8 npt to 1/4 npt with a .375 i.d. Then I installed some compression fittings for Hardlines. Gotta get it mounted and make SS lines around to the aux cooler.

It's a 26" radiator so I'm still in mock up phase. Debating on cutting the support or just leaving the 22" opening.

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I just left the opening at 22" on mine. I've never had an issue with the temperature climbing while out on the road, which is where that radiator support restriction might show up. And the Contour electric fan set up I run has a shroud that covers the entire 26" core on the back, so when the fans are running they pull air across the whole core. I'm sure it's a little bit less efficient to leave the opening at 22" with a 26" core, but it's a pretty small difference if there is one.
 
72bluNblu said:
I just left the opening at 22" on mine. I've never had an issue with the temperature climbing while out on the road, which is where that radiator support restriction might show up. And the Contour electric fan set up I run has a shroud that covers the entire 26" core on the back, so when the fans are running they pull air across the whole core. I'm sure it's a little bit less efficient to leave the opening at 22" with a 26" core, but it's a pretty small difference if there is one.
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I'll just keep the 22" opening then. No need to cut her up if there's not that great of a benefit.
 
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