Where did you get your front disc conversion?

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Pauly,

I don't have a Valiant so that wasn't mine. Might have been Tim's red Valiant but I'm not sure which thread you were referring too. Tim is running a Viper setup on his '68. His setup uses re-drilled Viper rotors and Viper calipers. I built the hubs and caliper adapters for him.

The Porsche setup I posted above is a custom deal. My typical setup for a street/track car uses Benz rotors and Viper calipers. I use steel hubs and steel adapters for these kits since they are very sturdy. For race only use a person could go with an aluminum hubs and aluminum adapters.

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Wow!

I never realized how many options there could be...Im gonna use the KISS (keep it simple stupid!)principle when converting my Dart.I have a 70 Dart with factory drum brakes all round in the sbp. As stated above I got lucky and found a factory KH setup for the front. All my rims are sbp so I'll stick with that for the rear too. This thread is really helping me with the decision. I basically want the most straight forward simple package deal I can get in sbp. I will need a parking brake and the car will be driven on the street quite a lot. The Willwood kit looks quite attractive!
 
Are there any issues with adding an aftermarket sway bar with the scarebird setup? I have a '65 Barracuda & I want to switch over to disc brakes so I am trying to compare prices & any pros or cons before I make my decision. I have 14" sbp Rally rims on the car already so it would not be an issue. I need ball joints & tie rod ends along with a full bushing kit so everything will be coming apart. Most of the upgrade kits come with all of that stuff, scarebird would not. Just wanted to check about sway bars. Thanks.
 
I wouldn't why see it would? I don't see anything getting in the way of the sway bar. Your still using the spindles and everything else from your Barracuda. The only thing your adding are the adapters, rotors and calipers for the swap.
 
No issue with my sway bar at all with the scarebird conversion.
 
Did you see the Tech article in Hemmings Muscle. It has info on what you can use to convert. Check it out. It's in Feb 09 issue. They use rotors and calipers from a 78-79 Cordoba. All you need to find are the caliper brackets and 73up abody spindles. The calipers and rotors can be found at most parts stores. Hemmings did their conversion on a 64 Dart.

rms sells the spindles and caliber brackets new. http://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/home.php?cat=275
 
I did the Scarebird conversion over 3 years ago (one of the first ones on Abodies) and I haven't had one problem. Never even had to change p-valve either. Plan on doing the rears this coming winter with their kit too
 
Can we add a power booster with the scarebird setup? It seems like it would not be a problem but I am not an expert.
Also, the Hemmings article from February recommended buying adjustable upper control arms because of "bump" steer with the '73-76 uppers. I don't see anyone mentioning this in these forums. Is this a concern if I go that direction? The numbers are stacking up pretty close to equal once all is said & done between the late model swap & the scarebird setup depending on the cost of the donor spindles & uppers. The upgrade kits are quite a bit more but obviously, everything is new & shiny.
 
What proportioning valve and master cylinder is used when doing the scarebird conversion on a 66 valiant with 9" drums?I converted to a dual master cylinder some time ago for the drum brakes.
 
I did the old, tried and true conversion on a '68 Dart Sedan a few years back.
That conversion was as follows:

1973-'76 A body spindles.
'76-'81 B & R body 11.875 rotors.
Calipers and mounts from a '76 Cordoba (pin type).
MANUAL master cylinder from a '73 A body 6 cylinder car.

Rear brakes were true blue 11" X 3" (NOT 2.5") ones from a '67 Fury Station wagon, which, BTW, are adjusted manually ONLY.
Stopping was never an issue and the whole brake set-up, fronts and rears, cost me under $300.

Don't be scared to use the F,J or M body spindle and brake components.
They are as close to the A body ones as you'll get for a cheap price, and the difference is one bolt hole, a threaded hole versus a drilled one, for the lower ball joint.
Hardly worth hollerin' over.

Mark.
 
Can anyone tell me what the differences between the $105 kit & the $495 "wheel" kit are at Scarebird? When I send them questions they only answer part of them. I am starting to lose confidence in even using them if I can't get a straight answer. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
 
got mine from a 73 dart swinger swapped out the upper control arm,spindle and bolted her right in tossed the drum stuff on the swinger and sold the dart for what i paid for it i opted to just make them a manual setup instead of going the power route because i like the feel of them instead of that that mushy power stuff.
 
Finally got mine with the help of Pettyblue. d brake spindles, 4piston KH calipers, new Sbp rotors, hubs from a 68 Dart. Still need a prop valve and Mcylinder.......and the time to do everything
 
Hey Phish, I asked them the same thing and they told me

"reworked calipers, machined and drilled rotors, modified hoses, brackets and install guide.

Mark

Scarebird Classic Brakes
Lynnwood, WA 98036
www.scarebird.com
 
For all you guys that need a prop valve.Summitracing has the adjustable willwood valve,rebadged with the sumit brand for around 40 bux. Allows you to perfectly dial in your brakes,at half the price of the stock non adjustable valve!
 
By the way, last I heard from ScareBird was that they were coming out with a kit that you could run more wheel options. However they told me it would be out in " a few weeks" that was way back when I posted on page 3! I would like to run this set up but just cant come off the custom wheels.
 
Beware of the new Scarebird setup, I must have got one of the first ones awhile back(they had me wait 2 wks on it after order) I'm not impressed, yes its cheap, but a decent amount of work to get it to work correct and not an ideal setup, they do stop better than stock 9" drums but nothing to brag about.
 
Can anyone tell me what the differences between the $105 kit & the $495 "wheel" kit are at Scarebird? When I send them questions they only answer part of them. I am starting to lose confidence in even using them if I can't get a straight answer. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

The $105 kit is just the adapter and you supply the parts from the provided parts list, the $495 kit is everything supplied in one kit.
 
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