Where's the Wow?

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Freezerman said:
After checking the cam it is at 106 CL as the card says. The crank sprocket does have different keyways so if I move it to the other way with the "roof" that will give me the advance I want?
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It looks like a Tru-Roller crank sprocket (like from Mancini). On those, the groove with the triangular 'roof' advances the cam 4 degress, the groove with the round 'roof' is straight up (where it sets now) , and the groove with the flat 'roof' retards the cam 4 degrees.

Change the crank sprocket to the one with the triangular 'roof, and then be sure to recheck the ICL to see if it now is at 102. Let us know if you then see around 5 psi increase in cranking compression. A check of cranking compression on one or a few particular cylinder(s) before and after changing the cam timing would be a good baseline.
Freezerman said:
Yes it is original short block. It had no ridges on top of the cylinders and they looked good. The bearings looked fine. Had limited funds at the time so I threw it in.
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Understood on the limited funds! It is what it is; low compression and a moderately big or big cam always leads to low torque at low RPM. With the chambers at 68cc's and the thinner head gasket, it will be better than stock, but still on the low side.

The only thing reported that does not hang with the rest of the data is your compression readings; all the other numbers given indicate around 125-130 psi not 140-150 psi. Hence the question on the gauge, either it is wrong, or something else reported early on is not correct and you have higher compression than we think. (Which leads to more why's.....)

BTW, your base of comparison was your 'old 318'. What did that 318 have in it? We are all just going on this comparison without really knowing what your seat-of-the-pants baseline really is. The part about not barely begin able to spin the tires is telling; by comparison, my son's 340 with a very similar cam and a true 10 SCR will spin them at anything over 1/2 throttle from a dead stop; 3.55 rear axle, 2200 RPM stall, early A body with a slight forward rake.
 
I changed the crank to 4 advanced, I do have 102 CL. I will try compression numbers again. Everything else was accurately described so I would say gauge reads high, should still be accurate for comparison numbers though.
This is no where near my 340 Dart i had 20 yrs ago. The 318 was a decent runner cam with the car, had some extra cam. Would bark on hard shifts, burn the one leg for 20ft or so.
I have a 3.55 sure grip that will be going in after all this.
 
6 pages in and I'm now worried that all the work I did on changing over to a 268 in my 340 is going to be for naught.

I hope this all works out for you OP.
 
WSUTARD said:
6 pages in and I'm now worried that all the work I did on changing over to a 268 in my 340 is going to be for naught.

I hope this all works out for you OP.
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Apples and oranges....Your engine started with a lot more SCR/DCR, with pistons slightly out of the hole, not .080" in the hole like here. Your compression readings were the same or higher than this 360 with the old cam that you started with. (Which we never found out if it WAS a 285 duration cam...) If you have it back together now, put in the compression tester and see where you are versus where you were on cranking compression. See if it is up to around the 150 ish range now.

And keep in mind, the OP here needs to go back and review things like ignition timing and work on some tuning stuff now. And then there is question on his torque convertor stall speed...
 
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Yes. Found out my compression gauge was reading about 6# high, but now with the 4 degrees advance my overall net compression is up 5 to 7#. Also added new balancer. Hopefully get it running tonight. As you say i am afraid I will need a different converter.
 
Good on the compression.... Well, review the ignition timing carefully; a lot of good recommendations have been made on this site by a lot of people with good experience.

The new rear gears will help too. Every move is going in the right direction. You seem ready to do the work and changes.

No numbers on the TC stall speed? That number may help someone with good experience in that area to help advise you if a change is needed.

BTW, maybe I have forgotten, but what are the planned uses for this engine and car?
 
The torque converter is new rebuilt from Tflite Patty. Supposed to be a "high stall" factory 360, it was a couple years go, I think about 1800? Going to be mostly cruiser/stoplight burner. Probably never more than 50 miles on an interstate.
 
Back together and running. Seems to like 28 initial with no kickback on hot soak start, have FBO plate at 10 degrees. Won't be able to test drive until Saturday.
 
You are fast! If I have followed this right, the 2 changes are:
- 4 degrees advance on the cam (for 5-7 lbs more cranking compression)
- 24 to 28* on the initial timing
 
4spdragtop said:
I still say there is confusion (or maybe its me) tte pic he posted of front end that shows 6 oclock cam gear and 12 oclocl crank.
Freeman you said that was TDC BUT didnt say which cylinder that was?
As mentioned 2 pages back. THAT is NOT #1 firing TDC. It is #6.
If this is how you have the plugs wired, yep itll be a dog.
Keep.it simple and knock the simple **** off the list.
This thread is.confusing the **** outta me as well.
Good luck
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Yep
"A common problem encountered when installing a timing chain and sprockets is to install the ignition distributor 180º out of time. This happens because the piston is on the overlap stroke, not the compression stroke. This is why. When the sprockets are in the classic installation position, with the cam sprocket’ dot down at 6:00 position and the crank sprocket’ dot up at the 12:00 and the number 1 piston at top dead center, it is not on the compression stroke. Rotate the crank 1 more turn, putting both sprockets’ dots at 12:00 and the #1 piston at top dead center. Now you are on the compression stroke, and you can install the distributor. (No, I don’t know why it is this way. It has been this way forever, on all American engines since timing chains have been used). It’s probably Al Gores idea; he has lots of good ones!

We suggest that you spray the timing chain libercy with gel lube before installing the timing cover".
 
Yep very common mistake.
Welcome back!
mullinax95 said:
Yep
"A common problem encountered when installing a timing chain and sprockets is to install the ignition distributor 180º out of time. This happens because the piston is on the overlap stroke, not the compression stroke. This is why. When the sprockets are in the classic installation position, with the cam sprocket’ dot down at 6:00 position and the crank sprocket’ dot up at the 12:00 and the number 1 piston at top dead center, it is not on the compression stroke. Rotate the crank 1 more turn, putting both sprockets’ dots at 12:00 and the #1 piston at top dead center. Now you are on the compression stroke, and you can install the distributor. (No, I don’t know why it is this way. It has been this way forever, on all American engines since timing chains have been used). It’s probably Al Gores idea; he has lots of good ones!

We suggest that you spray the timing chain libercy with gel lube before installing the timing cover".
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Took it out today. MUCH better! Thanks everyone for the advice and help. Especially nm9stheham.
I think I'm still missing some with the TC so I will be calling Dynamic or PTC, etc soon. That will be another adventure.
 
Freezerman said:
Took it out today. MUCH better! Thanks everyone for the advice and help. Especially nm9stheham.
I think I'm still missing some with the TC so I will be calling Dynamic or PTC, etc soon. That will be another adventure.
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Question: Is it better than the 318 now?
 
Another FABO team effort IMHO. A lot of contributors were in this.

Now if you can get me out of the dawghouse over MY wife's birthday, that'll be the real miracle....
 
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