John Trickler
Well-Known Member
Can someone please tell me which Edelbrock Head I have? Thanks!
Which Edelbrock Head
- Thread starter John Trickler
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Small block 63cc chamber I believe
Those are the "340" ones with an open chamber. There may be a few iterations based on installed spring from Edelbrock. Not my favorite, barf. 60179 was the part number on the early casting. When I get those they go to the surfacer and get rid of the the open chamber!
https://www.edelbrock.com/rpm-chrysler-340-cylinder-head-60179.html
There is usually a number stamped on the end of the head as well. I forget if they put the 6017 in them.
Given a choice buy the 60779 based closed chamber model. Since you have them, figure out how to make them work.
https://www.edelbrock.com/rpm-chrysler-340-cylinder-head-60179.html
There is usually a number stamped on the end of the head as well. I forget if they put the 6017 in them.
Given a choice buy the 60779 based closed chamber model. Since you have them, figure out how to make them work.
John Trickler
Well-Known Member
Ok, thanks. I was trying to figure out what I had. Just did a valve clearance check with my build. KB 243 pistons, block decked .008 with a .518 lift cam and the valves barely dented my clay.
If you have a 68 to 71 340 High compression
engine or any other compo with a zero to positive
deck, you must run the open chamber head. Otherwise,
think an Insane Head gasket or a stack of them. Our
stock engines in our race cars would need about .100 to
have adequate piston to head clearance!
engine or any other compo with a zero to positive
deck, you must run the open chamber head. Otherwise,
think an Insane Head gasket or a stack of them. Our
stock engines in our race cars would need about .100 to
have adequate piston to head clearance!
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Just so you know:
I have run the closed chamber Eddies as low as .028 Quench, making 11.3 Scr, and nearly 200psi, and it ran on 87E10 with full timing.
******************************
My small-cammed (223/230/110) 367 was a flipping torque monster.
So much so, that when that cam dropped lobes, I went the next size bigger cam (230/237/110), re-engineered the Scr, and ran that bigger cam straight up, all to "trade away" some low-rpm tire-frying torque, to get some Top-end power.
Scr ended at 10.9, Q at .032, and pressure at 185psi. This has proven to be very satisfactory. Engine now has over 100,000 miles on it.
Here's the point;
I wouldn't waste my money, to run alloy heads at 9.5Scr, nor at 165psi, with no quench or some lazy number......... Because chamber for chamber, alloy heads require more cylinder pressure than iron, just to keep up in the horsepower department, and specifically so at lower rpms.
This is not my opinion; way smarter men than me have said so, and, it's been published in multiple books.
Pressure makes heat which makes torque which translates to power.
Some say my 10.7Scr, translates to about 10.2 with iron....... until you get the chamber temperature up, by loading it up and reving it. But I'll bet that on a street engine, the difference is more like a full-point, so like 9.7Scr..
To keep some heat in my alloy heads, I run my cooling system at 207*F.
Some people say "hah. you can't make power at that hi temp!"
OK well;
the car went 93mph in the Eighth, at 3457 raceweight, at 900 ft elevation, on a HOT July day, with a 230/237/110 cam, on a POS track.
The Wallace Calculator says that would be 433 hp.
With a 230* cam, no less ........
I gotta tell ya, I'm pretty happy with my gutless, hot-running, 367.
IMHO
On the street, you do not need a bigger cam, than the one you got.
Rather, you need to optimize your chamber Quench and pressure.
BTW
IIRC, those Eddies, with their stock valvegear, are only set up for a max of .550 lift, so be careful; the next bigger cam, could exceed that.
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