Why Am I Overheating!!!!!

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7374

7374

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Ok, Here Is The Scoop. I Pulled The Motor And Trans During My Front End Swap (which Now Is Complete And I'll Post Pictures In That Thread.) And Since I Dropped It Back In I Can't Get It To Run Cool.

While I Had It Out. I...

Had The Radiator Pressure Tested And Cleaned.
Changed Valve Cover Gaskets
Changed Oil Pan Gasket And Oil Pump
Changed Coil
Added Chrome Air Cleaner And Breather
Eliminated The Charcoal Canister.

Since Installing Back Into Car It Runs Hot. I First Put A New Thermostat In, And It Still Ran Hot So I Took The Thermostat Out Completely And Installed A New Water Pump. Still Running Hot.
Do My Vacuum Lines Have Anything To Do With Cooling Because Some Are Plugged Now.

Things That I Do Notice. The Top Hose Seems To Never Have Water Running Through It. While The Car Is Running (no Thermostat Remember) I Can Grab The Top Hose And Squish It Closed By Hand. This Tells Me No Water Is Going Through The Hose.

Is My Radiator Clogged? What Are Your Thoughts? Let Me Know!!
 
Are you sure all the air is out of the engine. Had the same thing till I got all the air locks out of the engine and coolant top right up.

Just a thought
 
You can squeeze the hose on just about any car engine until the temp comes up high enough to build some pressure on the system. Some of the modern radiator hoses do not have the wire "spring" inside them to keep them from collapsing. Do yours? The suction side of the pump can collapse a hose if it doesn't have that spring inside to hold it open. I usually pull the one out of my old one and put it in the new one. Twist it the right way and they usually come out pretty easy.
 
Are you sure your not running lean since you removed the cannister? Are you sure you don't have a kink in the bottom hose? Also the air pockets will do that too. Best suggestion I saw so far is to run it with the cap off to see if it's moving at temp.
 
With a 16-18 lbs. cap you should be able to pinch the hose.
What kind of oil pressure do you have ? Lack of oil flow will cause higher temperature.
 
How do you know the engine is running hot? Are you using a mechanical gauge? What temperature is the engine running at?
With no thermostat, and topping the radiator off before cranking the engine, you should be getting a good water flow through the radiator.
Remember, the thermostat does not control the maximum temperature of the engine. It controls only the minimum temperature.
So, put a thermostat back in. Drill a 1/8" hole in the t-stat flange to eliminate air lock.
 
340_833 dart said:
Remember, the thermostat does not control the maximum temperature of the engine. It controls only the minimum temperature. So, put a thermostat back in.
Click to expand...

agreed .....you should have a thermostat. if the flow is not restricted at all by a thermostat then the coolant may not being staying in the radiator long enough to even cool it down properly.
 
thanks to all so far for the great trouble shooting ideas. i tried to answer your "did you's" and "try this" as best i could. with this information does this change anyone's thoughts or add anymore ideas?


was thinking about the air lock thing. how can i make sure of that?

no springs in hoses, never had them, car ran perfect before.

ran with cap off, coolant is swirling around, car still reached about 230 in 15 minutes of idling. then boiled over when shut off.

not sure about fuel mixture or oil pressure. no pressure gauge, just oil light. using brand new 16lb cap but doesn't seem like pressure is building becuase when engine is hot i can open rad cap to first stop and no pressure is bled off and top hose is soft as can be but hot.

i know the engine is running hot because of a new temp sending unit and the factory temp gauge is at about 230 degrees. the coolant will over flow and is DAMN hot. it takes only about 15 minutes in the driveway at idle to reach this. or a quick 5 mile run. same problem existed with 2 thermostats, so i eliminated to check flow.

I've heard about a half dozen people mention about an air lock so i really want to pursue this but how would i do it? run with cap off? i filled the block through the top radiator hose with no thermostat, then topped off the rad after reconnecting hose.


ugggghhhh!!!!!!!
 
7374 said:
thanks to all so far for the great trouble shooting ideas. i tried to answer your "did you's" and "try this" as best i could. with this information does this change anyone's thoughts or add anymore ideas?


was thinking about the air lock thing. how can i make sure of that?

no springs in hoses, never had them, car ran perfect before.

ran with cap off, coolant is swirling around, car still reached about 230 in 15 minutes of idling. then boiled over when shut off.

not sure about fuel mixture or oil pressure. no pressure gauge, just oil light. using brand new 16lb cap but doesn't seem like pressure is building becuase when engine is hot i can open rad cap to first stop and no pressure is bled off and top hose is soft as can be but hot.

i know the engine is running hot because of a new temp sending unit and the factory temp gauge is at about 230 degrees. the coolant will over flow and is DAMN hot. it takes only about 15 minutes in the driveway at idle to reach this. or a quick 5 mile run. same problem existed with 2 thermostats, so i eliminated to check flow.

I've heard about a half dozen people mention about an air lock so i really want to pursue this but how would i do it? run with cap off? i filled the block through the top radiator hose with no thermostat, then topped off the rad after reconnecting hose.


ugggghhhh!!!!!!!
Click to expand...


Hi Guy's

I'm new to the forum. I had overheating issues with my 69 swinger 340. I tried everything I could think of. I have a aluminum cross flow radiator, a steel 7 blade fan with a shroud, an electric pusher fan on the other side of the rad, a Brass Works high flow water pump, tried removing thermostat then replaced with a flow restictor, installed a transmission/engine oil cooler (the transmission fluid does not go through the rad) and STILL I couldn't keep the engine from overheating when I got stuck in traffic. The temp was fine when I was moving in fact it was a little too cool (170 degrees I'll have to re-install the thermostat). In frustration I installed a second aluminum rad and had it idling in my driveway at 170 degrees for over 20 minutes. I decided to take if for a test drive so I put my fiberglass six pack scooped hood back on the car. By the time I came back down to the garage after washing my hands the temp gauge had climbed to 195 degrees!!!! I was dumbfounded. My buddy and I started checking and you guys won't believe what we found. Because I have the fiberglass lift off hood it doesn't have the rubber strip that is normally attached to the underside of the hood and seals to the rad support. The hot air was comming out from under my hood and was being sucked back through the rad, heated up and then out from under my hood then heated again, the sucked ba......well you guy's get the picture. I temporarily used a piece of foam pipe insullation and fasteded it to the rad support with zip ties. Car now idles in traffic at about 190 degrees on a 85 degree day. I hope this helps some of you guys. Great Forum!!!!
 
7374 said:
Ok, Here Is The Scoop. I Pulled The Motor And Trans During My Front End Swap (which Now Is Complete And I'll Post Pictures In That Thread.) And Since I Dropped It Back In I Can't Get It To Run Cool.

While I Had It Out. I...

Had The Radiator Pressure Tested And Cleaned.
Changed Valve Cover Gaskets
Changed Oil Pan Gasket And Oil Pump
Changed Coil
Added Chrome Air Cleaner And Breather
Eliminated The Charcoal Canister.

Since Installing Back Into Car It Runs Hot. I First Put A New Thermostat In, And It Still Ran Hot So I Took The Thermostat Out Completely And Installed A New Water Pump. Still Running Hot.
Do My Vacuum Lines Have Anything To Do With Cooling Because Some Are Plugged Now.

Things That I Do Notice. The Top Hose Seems To Never Have Water Running Through It. While The Car Is Running (no Thermostat Remember) I Can Grab The Top Hose And Squish It Closed By Hand. This Tells Me No Water Is Going Through The Hose.

Is My Radiator Clogged? What Are Your Thoughts? Let Me Know!!
Click to expand...

Did you change anything with the fan shroud? Standard or clutched fan?
Why did you take the rad for pressure test and flush, just for precaution or something else?
Definately reinstall the thermostat, the large opening without thermostat will not keep moderate backpressure needed to keep a controlled flow and avoid hot and cold spots.
What is the temp outside when this happens. Did you change the rad cap immediately after the rad flush or did you try it with the old cap? If you say it's heating up but you can open the first stage of the cap with no pressure there's something wrong with the cap.
Did you test the strength of the antifreeze? Are you sick of all these questions? LOL
Food for thought, I once took a rad to get flushed due to heating problems in a 74 charger, the rad or heater core had a leak at some time before I got it and someone had poured stop leak in it. When the rad was put in the hot tank before flushing the heat and chemicals remelted the crap in the rad and it became plugged worse than it had started, I had to get another rad. Not necessarily your situation but when it comes to cooling problems you have to keep an open mind. Kev
 
If there is no pressure building up, even with the engine hot, then the pressure is going somewhere.
Try another radiator cap.
Get a mechanical gauge.
Is your bottom radiator hose getting sucked closed?
 
I had a car once where the lower hose had a bubble in the internal lining that was restricting flow and overheating,it looked and felt normal on the outside.
 
baumtruck said:
I had a car once where the lower hose had a bubble in the internal lining that was restricting flow and overheating,it looked and felt normal on the outside.
Click to expand...

Yes, I agree to this same thing happen to me.
Lower rad hose inner linning had seperated on reinstall and was blocking passage. Remove and inspect lower then upper rad hoses.
 
I had same problems. So , I got a NEW aluminum radiator , New top and bottom hose (to be safe) and a mechanical gauge (electric are not accurate), and used a new cap and nice and cool now. You are not getting flow if it heats up that fast. period. When they drained and checked your radiator , you got blockage.
 
well thanks for the replies. I let it sit for a little over a week cause I was frustrated. over the weekend I flushed the radiator, installed a new 195 degree thermostat, installed and new temp sending unit, and topped off the fluids. I can't say for sure what did it, but it's running like a champ now. I'm convinced that it was blockage in the radiator. The wife and I enjoyed over the weekend. Thanks for the ideas and thoughts! !
 
7374 said:
thanks to all so far for the great trouble shooting ideas. i tried to answer your "did you's" and "try this" as best i could. with this information does this change anyone's thoughts or add anymore ideas?


was thinking about the air lock thing. how can i make sure of that?

no springs in hoses, never had them, car ran perfect before.

ran with cap off, coolant is swirling around, car still reached about 230 in 15 minutes of idling. then boiled over when shut off.

not sure about fuel mixture or oil pressure. no pressure gauge, just oil light. using brand new 16lb cap but doesn't seem like pressure is building becuase when engine is hot i can open rad cap to first stop and no pressure is bled off and top hose is soft as can be but hot.

i know the engine is running hot because of a new temp sending unit and the factory temp gauge is at about 230 degrees. the coolant will over flow and is DAMN hot. it takes only about 15 minutes in the driveway at idle to reach this. or a quick 5 mile run. same problem existed with 2 thermostats, so i eliminated to check flow.

I've heard about a half dozen people mention about an air lock so i really want to pursue this but how would i do it? run with cap off? i filled the block through the top radiator hose with no thermostat, then topped off the rad after reconnecting hose.

ugggghhhh!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Get a high quality BRASS thrmostat. Check it in a pot of boiling water first. Should open all the way in 2 seconds when put into the boiling water. Get it out and look at it make sure it's fully open. If ok, install in car after it cools!

After thermo install leave set overnight if poss. Take 2 beers and post us in the morning.

Try again and we hope you were to be sure of proper direction of thermo install!

When filling for first start up run with heater in full on position without blower on ok, then run untill thermo opens and water flows. Put cap back on. See what happens.
Good Luck!

So sorry late post, wasn't even here!!!! Duhhhhh
 
63dartman said:
Are you sure your not running lean since you removed the cannister? Are you sure you don't have a kink in the bottom hose? Also the air pockets will do that too. Best suggestion I saw so far is to run it with the cap off to see if it's moving at temp.
Click to expand...

-Lean??? Throttle body FI here (1990 Ram D100/150 2 wheel drive automatic LWB pickup)
-Kink in bottom hose? Nahhh, all have wire coils
-Air pockets, nahh, drilled 3/32" hole in stat
-All hoses, clamps, water pump, stat...NEW
-Drilled stat since problems persisted...no such luck...problem continues
-Water moves in radiator at temp
-I shortened and lowered discharge hose so it is below radiator fill cap
-Definitely good stat (Stant 195 deg F.)
-Good pressure cap (16 lb)
-No, no bubbles...head gaskets are not leaking...once the heat is normal, this truck runs all day and night flawlessly...It is 26 years old and ran flawlessly for 25 years. I went 14 years without any major repairs.
-YES, pushes water out of overflow tank then bunches of hot hot steam
-Add 3 quarts of cold water to hot radiator and gauge goes down to normal and everything is OK for the rest of the day.
-Gets savagely hot first 3 miles, EVERY morning. EVERY SINGLE DAMN MORNING FOR 3 months...problem for almost a year now...I am going mad and insane.
-It has been flushed 6 or 7 times and rinsed 30 or so times...Radiator fins blown out....nothing in them. No transmission cooler (disconnected 25 years ago) The transmission started doing wacky things 10 years ago and it still does, with band material in the pan and hilarious shifts up and down at the strangest times...but it finally gets into 3rd gear after a few miles and works fine the rest of the day. I have hauled a big loaded trailer and truck bed many times (Like 70 full loads) and I have pulled stumps with the truck for years as well as pulled all the windows out of the old house for replacement. Pulled down many houses and sheds with it ever since I bought it. It has some minor dents but why would I get rid of it? This overheating is maddening and m,akjes no sense whatsoever. I am [email protected] or 1-360-465-2809

Desperate in WA state...thanks for any help
 
Six year old thread back from the dead.
 
Thread is dead, Zed. Zed's dead, Baby.

c0ecdc8389648edf10a1a7c125af28b89acd523a7d55439d41d669435036ff9c.jpg
 
That's a few lately,,they're usually newbies,, and it's a good indication they are using the "search" function,, which a few have preached about ... myself included..

Ogden... start a new thread..

cheers
 
inertia said:
That's a few lately,,they're usually newbies,, and it's a good indication they are using the "search" function,, which a few have preached about ... myself included..

Ogden... start a new thread..

cheers
Click to expand...
,,, YES, thanks...one polite person here, the rest are rude.


"Why am I overheating?" is a valid question before, now and in the future.
 
just so you know "up grading to a aluminum rad", is NOT! aluminum works but is a poor choice compared to copper and brass, like original. JMO:burnout:MT
 
Mopar Tim said:
just so you know "up grading to a aluminum rad", is NOT! aluminum works but is a poor choice compared to copper and brass, like original. JMO:burnout:MT
Click to expand...
FWIW.... Here is the info from a professional shop that sells both copper/brass and AL rads: "I generally tell customers that a high efficiency (tubes on 7/16” or closer centers) copper four row will cool the same as an aluminum core with two rows of 1” tubes."

http://www.caparadiator.com/aluminumvscopper.html

Original rads were brass because that was the technology of the day; AL parts work at that time was not as far along as it it now. Cooling abiliity looks to be a draw.

The main drawback that I see for AL is that it becomes the sacrificial element in the cooling system electrolysis process, not the iron block, and so you have to change coolant more often and be very careful to use distilled water, not tap water from some sources. Most hot rodders don't know this and don't take care of their AL rads properly. (Or Al heads for that matter...) This gets worse if you hard mount the AL to the chassis; note that stock AL rads now use plastic tanks and isolate the AL core from the chassis completely; that helps slow the electrolysis.

With a copper/brass rad, the iron in the block is the sacrificial element in the electrolysis process, so the rads last better with crap for coolant and water...but the insides of the blocks and heads could get pretty crudded up!
 
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