Will my slant six starter work on my 440 powered Charger?

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cruiser

cruiser

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Mopar faithful: The starter that was on my 1974 slant six Duster when I bought it is part number 3755900. The number "24" is below this part number. Both of these numbers are stamped on the black motor housing. Is this the correct part number for a Duster built in October of 1973? Does anyone know what the number 24 indicates? And finally, will this starter work on my 1969 440 powered Charger? Thanks!
 
Yes. And the Nippondenso RAM 'mini' starter works even better!
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and a better view of the starter gear. I never had any fitment issues with these: 2 different used mini starters on an RG, LA or RB. All autos so your flywheel fitment may vary. If you see one with a longer 'band', thats the higher Kw rated one. IIRC there were 2 ratings.
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Im pretty sure a slant starter will bolt up and work. The difference is the V8 starter had a longer magnet / armature for more torque.
I have used slant starters on LA but never on B / RB.
 
Its just a way more efficient design. I used one on a slant then moved it to a 10:4 451 and it still kicked it over faster than ever. Didn't even phase the little starter. I still got it. If you go to a junk yard, they are on early 90's Dodge trucks (ie. 1998 360) , vans, etc. even V6's
 
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Be really careful buying those mini starters. We've started seeing some that will not engage our old Mopars. The one in the picture above looks like one too. See how the gear teeth stop before the end of the gear body? They also don't "throw out" the gear all the way to the inside of the starter nose. Those two things coupled together, are adding up to the starter just spinning and not engaging the ring gear on some of out older Mopars, so pay attention.

But yes, your slant 6 starter will bolt right on and work fine, as long as it was working to begin with.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Be really careful buying those mini starters. We've started seeing some that will not engage our old Mopars. The one in the picture above looks like one too. See how the gear teeth stop before the end of the gear body? They also don't "throw out" the gear all the way to the inside of the starter nose. Those two things coupled together, are adding up to the starter just spinning and not engaging the ring gear on some of out older Mopars, so pay attention.

But yes, your slant 6 starter will bolt right on and work fine, as long as it was working to begin with.
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Also, a lot of rebuilt mini starters wont stand up to the heat , buy a good one if u go that route.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Be really careful buying those mini starters. We've started seeing some that will not engage our old Mopars. The one in the picture above looks like one too. See how the gear teeth stop before the end of the gear body? They also don't "throw out" the gear all the way to the inside of the starter nose. Those two things coupled together, are adding up to the starter just spinning and not engaging the ring gear on some of out older Mopars, so pay attention.

But yes, your slant 6 starter will bolt right on and work fine, as long as it was working to begin with.
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@RustyRatRod Rob, here is a vid of another FABO members mini engagement. This one is one of the "good ones' as it seems to get 100% engagement of the ring gear. Not sure of the issue with this users setup. If the installation doesnt look like this, perhaps there is a mounting issue or you got a out of spec starter...? . Someone mentioned the new noses not fully seating, maybe hit it with a file? Gear sits .86 off the mounting plane idle and extends to 1.33 at full throw, with a .47 inch throw. Ring gear width is less than .50 so you should get full engagement if everything lines up as designed. My starter was a reman. Not sure if the core was OEM.
 
I was thinking of going with a mini starter but I like the old wind up toy Mopar starter noise... its even better when the car fires right up and the starter doesn't wind the engine one full revolution.:)
 
pishta said:
@RustyRatRod Rob, here is a vid of another FABO members mini engagement. This one is one of the "good ones' as it seems to get 100% engagement of the ring gear. Not sure of the issue with this users setup. If the installation doesnt look like this, perhaps there is a mounting issue or you got a out of spec starter...? . Someone mentioned the new noses not fully seating, maybe hit it with a file? Gear sits .86 off the mounting plane idle and extends to 1.33 at full throw, with a .47 inch throw. Ring gear width is less than .50 so you should get full engagement if everything lines up as designed. My starter was a reman. Not sure if the core was OEM.
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This was on a 68 D100, 318 and 727 all original truck. Matt got a mini starter from O'Reilly and put on it. It worked, but it wouldn't touch the ring gear. Matt pulled it off and discovered that the gear teeth didn't extend all the way to the end of the gear, leaving a "button" on the end and that the starter drive itself did not engage all the way out to the inside of the nose cone. After looking at the above video, I have to wonder if most of the aftermarket starters are now all going to the manual version. Someone made mention on here that there was no difference, but after seeing that video, I wonder. I have a mini starter just like the one Matt pulled off his but I didn't give him that one. I had an old OEM big starter I pulled out and tested good and let him have that one instead and it worked fine. When I posted about the problem here, some blew it off, but there were others that had experienced the same thing. Just two fasteners hold it on. I think we know how to swap it out right. lol Something else is afoot.
 
Oh and before you say the starter was defective, Matt tried three different ones. All of them were the same. That's why we didn't try the mini starter I have. Something is different somewhere.
 
Yes the slant starter will work.

I've used those on a 383 to help with header clearance for removing the starter without unbolting and jockeying the header.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Oh and before you say the starter was defective, Matt tried three different ones. All of them were the same. That's why we didn't try the mini starter I have. Something is different somewhere.
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see if the near inside edge of the ring gear is > .86 and far edge is >= 1.33 deep off the trans/engine mounting plane, then pry out the pinion gear of your old suspect starter and see if the tip of the gear projects out to > 1.33. If it does, your pinion is 'getting out' there. The "button" is a non issue as it doesnt contact the ring gear nor the end of the pinion housing. Its limited by something internal, not the button. Just food for thought if anyone ever gets in there again.
 
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pishta said:
see if the inside egge of the ring gear is > 1.33 deep off the trans/engine mounting plane, then pry out the pinion gear of your old suspect starter and see if the tip of the gear projects out to > 1.33. If it does, your pinion is 'getting out' there. The "button" is a non issue as it doesnt contact the ring gear nor the end of the pinion housing. Its limited by something internal, not the button. Just food for thought if you ever get in there again.
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No, the button is not a non issue. It the teeth extended the full length of the gear, they would contact the automatic ring gear. So I guess it's more accurate to say not the button, but the lack of gear teeth is the issue with some. But the button is a very quick identifier.
 
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