Will this rust on gears be an issue?

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cpearce

cpearce

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I got around to getting the 3.23 chunk pulled out last night. Upon inspection, I see some minor rust pitting on several teeth on the ring gear that were above the oil line. The rust is limited to about 6 or 7 teeth and does not seem deep, I can just catch my fingernail on it. Should I be concerned about this, or will it likely clean up with some run time?

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Its going to make noise i bet.
85/140 and run it. Maybe it will be fine. Run it. That will tell you everything.
 
Run that beeotch. You MIGHT knock some off with a wire wheel on a drill. I am not sure I would even do that. I've run much worse that never made a sound.
 
That's not surface rust. But nothing you can do now. Run I or replace it. Might make noise, but if it is just a cruiser, no problem. Don't try to hot rod it though.
 
MoparLeo said:
That's not surface rust. But nothing you can do now. Run I or replace it. Might make noise, but if it is just a cruiser, no problem. Don't try to hot rod it though.
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The car is a four speed with 550hp.
 
I guess it's what you feel comfortable with.

I'd probably hit it with some medium grit wet or dry paper and run it.
 
I would wire wheel it till I got it cleaned up maybe check the pattern and if it looks good run it.
 
I've ran worse, had a set of 3:91's once I bought out of a salvage yard, they were like that on one side where it sat so long. They ran quiet and I hot rodded the hell out of them behind a 340 4 speed in a 72 Cuda.
 
You can't get the pits out with a wire wheel. I guess that 550 hp means you have a weak clutch pedal foot and can't control high rpm clutch dumps. Is that what that means ? The worst that can happen is it breaks. Some of the above guys may be luckier that others, but just because you get away with something not breaking is not much of a recommendation to me. You can't put the metal back. Just swap out the ring and pinion. Not really expensive and cheaper than breaking it.
 
I'd wire brush the pitted areas and shoot it with rust neutralizer.

The gear mesh will take the neutralizer off the contact surfaces but it will stay in the low pits.

Of course it's basically in an oil bath and a sealed enclosure so theoretically it shouldn't get too much worse.
 
It can't clean up with run time unless it wears down the surrounding metal to the depth of the pits. I've seen much worse that didn't cause a problem.
 
You’re going to run an open 3:23 with pitted teeth behind a 550hp setup, and you’re wondering if it’ll be alright?
 
cosgig said:
You’re going to run an open 3:23 with pitted teeth behind a 550hp setup, and you’re wondering if it’ll be alright?
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The reason it came apart is to install sure grip unit. There was no suspected damage prior to it being opened up. Those Marks are barely perceptible by feel actually, look worse in photos than in person. I was hoping to use as they are chrysler gears rather than aftermarket, my experience is they hold up better.
 
cpearce said:
The car is a four speed with 550hp.
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I would not run them with a manual trans unless the tires spin real easy.
My 367 went 93 in the Eighth at 3467 pounds, which calculates to 433 hp. With 325/50-15s she has spit out 3.91s like that with relative ease. The pictures must be deceiving.
With an automatic and a street stall, they might be OK, but did you build a 550hp beast to tip-toe around?
I would sell the whole chunk to a guy with a stock V8, and they might go decades more. Then get a trac-loc 4-spider clutch LSD, in a 489 case with a 1350 yoke; that's what I did with my 4.30s.

I had no trouble with Richmond 4.30s
 
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If you are going to run at the track with sticky tires you should change it. I've broken ring gear teeth with my 375-400hp small block on two different pumkins. I only launch the car at 2K rpm. Get a magnet and place it in the bottom of the housing in line with the ring gear to catch any pieces.
If you run street tires all the time I would use what you have.
New aftermarket gears are a crap shoot. I recently purchased Richmond 4.10s and they no longer have Richmond name stamped on the gear. No made in the USA anywhere on the box or paperwork and nothing USA on the website.
 
Considering the application, I decided to look around for another set of gears. I found a pristine looking set of Chrysler 3.23 gears. I will be getting help from a friend to set up this coming weekend. From readings about used gears, I have learned to set up focussing on the coast side pattern. Is this correct? Any tips or advice about used gear setup greatly appreciated. I have a complete new install kit, and crush sleeve eliminator.

Can I modify my old pinion bearing to use as a setup bearing by clearancing the inner diameter slightly?

I will save the other ring and pinion with the slight rust for the 318 Scamp.
 
Yes, used gears you concentrate on the coast side. Your looking for a pattern that is centered face to flank. You can make a set up bearing out of a used bearing as long as it is in good shape. I use a hone on a rod resizing machine till it will just slide on and off.
 
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