wiring Barracuda 67
- Thread starter Pettero
- Start date
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There is lots of ways to go, but you need to decide the future of your car
Are you headed towards a factory stock resto?
A little more "rod" and how much? electric pumps? electric fans? big alternator? big stereo?
If you are going to stay strictly stock, with say, a 45A alternator, you can redo the old wiring yourself, buy aftermarket "repop", or even find cleaner stock wiring and re-work that
If you want more of a "rod" and forsee a larger alternator, heavier accessories, I would either get an aftermarket kit or at the very least a good aftermarket fuse panel and relay box.
The big big problems with the factory harness is the bulkhead connector, which has connection, heating, and voltage drop problems on several circuits, not the least of which is the charging/ battery lines, the ignition circuit, and the headlights.
Start by reading this MAD article:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Some of us have converted our original in-dash ammeters to voltmeters, see this thread:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=119480&highlight=ammeter+conversion
I and others have gone to underhood relay/ fuse panels for the "big" loads like pumps, fans, headlights. I used a junker off a Voyager: which mounts handily on the left fender apron behind the battery
and Bussmann makes fuse/ relay boxes you can configure in many different ways:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-iFGHLZXuLik/Thx0-rciAKI/AAAAAAAASAs/lSOi7eVZkBM/P1030514.JPG
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae31/duffer-10/Feb09003.jpg
Are you headed towards a factory stock resto?
A little more "rod" and how much? electric pumps? electric fans? big alternator? big stereo?
If you are going to stay strictly stock, with say, a 45A alternator, you can redo the old wiring yourself, buy aftermarket "repop", or even find cleaner stock wiring and re-work that
If you want more of a "rod" and forsee a larger alternator, heavier accessories, I would either get an aftermarket kit or at the very least a good aftermarket fuse panel and relay box.
The big big problems with the factory harness is the bulkhead connector, which has connection, heating, and voltage drop problems on several circuits, not the least of which is the charging/ battery lines, the ignition circuit, and the headlights.
Start by reading this MAD article:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Some of us have converted our original in-dash ammeters to voltmeters, see this thread:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=119480&highlight=ammeter+conversion
I and others have gone to underhood relay/ fuse panels for the "big" loads like pumps, fans, headlights. I used a junker off a Voyager: which mounts handily on the left fender apron behind the battery
and Bussmann makes fuse/ relay boxes you can configure in many different ways:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-iFGHLZXuLik/Thx0-rciAKI/AAAAAAAASAs/lSOi7eVZkBM/P1030514.JPG
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae31/duffer-10/Feb09003.jpg
If you simply want to renew what you have..
NAPA stores have exact replacement contacts for the bulkhead connector.
Ebay sellers have them that are tinned so they dont corrode as fast.
Year One has the fusible link with rubber tag like OEM.
NAPA stores have exact replacement contacts for the bulkhead connector.
Ebay sellers have them that are tinned so they dont corrode as fast.
Year One has the fusible link with rubber tag like OEM.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Lookup my post on re-wiring the engine bay in my 65 Dart. I expect that is where your wires are degraded. In the cabin, I just cleaned up ugly butt crimps and added missing connectors, but the wires were still flexible. In the engine bay, I re-wired from scratch. As 67Dart273 did, I used a relay/fuse box from a newer car (~94 Jeep Cherokee). I did use the lamp wires from a 74 Dart, but that didn't help much.
You can buy new harnesses, but very expensive ~$300. You can see some posts here. Might be harder if you have a slant. If you plan upgrades like electronic ignition, a factory harness won't help much anyway. I wired for that, plus EFI.
For the bulkhead connector (torpedo wall!), you can remove the individual male terminals, clean and re-install, if the plastic housings are good. If you buy new ones, they are termed "57 terminals" or "Packard 57". You can buy on ebay, or you can find links to stores in a search here.
You can buy new harnesses, but very expensive ~$300. You can see some posts here. Might be harder if you have a slant. If you plan upgrades like electronic ignition, a factory harness won't help much anyway. I wired for that, plus EFI.
For the bulkhead connector (torpedo wall!), you can remove the individual male terminals, clean and re-install, if the plastic housings are good. If you buy new ones, they are termed "57 terminals" or "Packard 57". You can buy on ebay, or you can find links to stores in a search here.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Must have wires or connectors touching where they shouldn't since there is no relation between the washer motor and the turn signals. I would suspect the bulkhead connector in the firewall or the wires on the engine side. You can find wiring diagrams here with a search. I kind of remember that the wiper wire was often in the same bulkhead connector as the lights.
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