Wont start..like i have NO battery

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Didn't he say the problem started while he was driving? If so, the the starter relay is ouT of play on the problem.

Just sayin. GL!
 
Thank you 67Dart273, i will try that..but i do have a question. Will the starter relay have anything to do with not have anything electric operational? Before I pulled the battery, i pulled the headlight on,,,and they did not come on, no brake lights either when pressing the brake lights.
 
jorez said:
Thank you 67Dart273, i will try that..but i do have a question. Will the starter relay have anything to do with not have anything electric operational? Before I pulled the battery, i pulled the headlight on,,,and they did not come on, no brake lights either when pressing the brake lights.
Click to expand...

A bad starter relay should not cause a total loss of power.
 
What about something called a "fusabale link"..that what other sites say may be the problem.. If that is bad, can it cause no power..and if so, where is it located so i can try replacing it.
 
jorez said:
What about something called a "fusabale link"..that what other sites say may be the problem.. If that is bad, can it cause no power..and if so, where is it located so i can try replacing it.
Click to expand...

A burnt fusable link can cause a total loss of electrical power. It should be located on the under hood side of the bulkhead connector. Most of the time they have a plastic rating tag attached to them. Go back to the beginning of this post and look for the picture posted by Louie 70 Dart. Looking at the bulkhead connector in the picture, you can see a blue or purple wire with a green tag on it. That is a fusable link. Look for one of those on your car in the same area.

Good Luck

Russ
 
Thanks for the info Russ H, i will look and see what i can find out. Appreciate it as well as all the other suggestions from this GREAT forum!!
 
Russ H said:
A bad starter relay should not cause a total loss of power.
Click to expand...

Somehow I missed that.

There are very FEW things that can cause a total lack of power

Take a test lamp or multimeter

1--Make sure you have power at the big stud on the starter relay

2--Follow the wire which goes from that stud to the bulkhead (firewall) connector.

Probe that connection at the firewall connector. If no power-- the link is bad

3--If you have power there, go around to the interior, and probe that connection in the bulkhead connector to see if the connector has lost power Wiggle the connector

4--If you have power so far, post back

This MAD article has a simplified diagram which shoes the basic power feed circuit. Follow the path---

Battery---starter relay stud---fuse link---bulkhead connector -- ammeter --- out the ammeter on the black wire--to the in harness splice---branch off to the fuse panel and ignition switch

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml


amp-ga18.jpg
 
67Dart273 said:
Somehow I missed that.

There are very FEW things that can cause a total lack of power

Take a test lamp or multimeter

1--Make sure you have power at the big stud on the starter relay

2--Follow the wire which goes from that stud to the bulkhead (firewall) connector.

Probe that connection at the firewall connector. If no power-- the link is bad

3--If you have power there, go around to the interior, and probe that connection in the bulkhead connector to see if the connector has lost power Wiggle the connector

4--If you have power so far, post back

This MAD article has a simplified diagram which shoes the basic power feed circuit. Follow the path---

Battery---starter relay stud---fuse link---bulkhead connector -- ammeter --- out the ammeter on the black wire--to the in harness splice---branch off to the fuse panel and ignition switch

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml


amp-ga18.jpg
Click to expand...
Will do..but your gonna have to wait till the weekend for an update, no time to go over there till then. Thanks all!
 
Not sure if this was mentioned yet or maybe I missed seeing it, but how about the alternator. One time my alternator died on me while driving and when I shut the car off it wouldn't start(like it had a very dead battery) unless I jumped started it. My battery at the time was good.
 
I would just like to point out that you need a good ground just as much as you need good positive wires. Just last week we had a tow in lexus. The lady turned the car off at the gas station and when she went to restart it nothing. No power no headlights. The ground wire coming from the battery was very slightly loose, but without a ground path power can't flow. Losing a battery ground will kill most engines and then have no power at all.

And it doesn't look like you have a throttle return spring on your throttle rod, and you really should upgrade to a dual resevoir master cylinder for safety's sake.
 
Well, i was not able to gt it started after messing with all the wires..but I did sell it, so its time to move on to something else. Thanks for all your help!
 
Had the same problem years ago on 2 different vehicles and both times it was a bad ground. Was easier to fiind/fix the second time. I put a jumper cable from battery ground to carbody and everything worked, take it off and nothing electrical worked (horn, lights, nothing) had to put a ground wire from block to carbody and never had a problem since.
 
jorez said:
Well, i was not able to gt it started after messing with all the wires..but I did sell it, so its time to move on to something else. Thanks for all your help!
Click to expand...

An interesting end to a thread. Sounds like an easy fix, and maybe a good deal, for the new owner.
 
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