X HEADS

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toolmanmike said:
They are about the best factory heads Mopar made.

They could make one. This one is race only with alcohol. No coolant passages. This one happens to fit a John Deere.

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There's a guy on one of the Facebook groups that's made one. It's not done and he says he plans to make more.
 
4spdragtop said:
If I bought a set of SM on sale landed to most Canucks door is $2k. Should I start boohooing hoping for a handout or should I use the X heads I've got??
Oh ya and deal with the accessory alignment bs??
Hmmm hard decision...handout or use what I got?
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In my case, I can do a good bit of cylinder head work right here at home, so unless something is BAD wrong with one, all my stuff gets iron heads. There's nothing WRONG with iron heads, they can simply approach aluminum castings pretty quick if you're not careful.
 
have a set of ported X heads on my 340, engine builder said they have better flow numbers, then out of the box $2400 dollar edelbrocks and i only spent 1/4 the money in them , and edelbrocks first thing you do is replace the springs, and 7 degree locks and retainers. edelbrocks are 40 lbs lighter per head it just what ever you want ,that was just the engine builders opinion
 
moparraceman said:
have a set of ported X heads on my 340, engine builder said they have better flow numbers, then out of the box $2400 dollar edelbrocks and i only spent 1/4 the money in them , and edelbrocks first thing you do is replace the springs, and 7 degree locks and retainers. edelbrocks are 40 lbs lighter per head it just what ever you want ,that was just the engine builders opinion
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eddies are around 1800 assembled, and 1450 bare
 
This thread was originally started as to the value of X heads. Not how well they perform. You can make them perform. That doesn't mean it's a cost saving thing to do. Run um. But I wouldn't pay a premium for um since I don't have a numbers car for um to go on and waiting on that particular buyer might be a while.
 
There is a big variation of the value of a set of X heads. If they're old worn out need to be rebuilt yeah 3 to 400 bucks, if they're nice ready to bolt on already rebuilt with hardened seats and brass valve guides etc I would say 6 to 800.? There is much smaller market for iron heads than it once was. Five or six years ago you could have sold a nice set for good money all day long.
 
oldkimmer said:
U seem to have how many engines in your collection. U mean to say u don’t have any aluminum heads. ?
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Negatory ghostrider. As I said, I do a lot of my own cylinder head work, so that saves me some money. I'd love to put some badass Cleveland aluminum heads on this 400 I have built to go in Gladys, but what I have on it will have to do, cause them bad boys ain't cheap. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
And that's for someone using them for a class with restrictions or for a number restoration. You wanna wait that long?
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Just what they are worth. I have mine, not looking for more. I already have too many sets of good old cast iron heads that I'll never use. Like you, I do almost all my own head work.
 
66fs said:
Just what they are worth. I have mine, not looking for more. I already have too many sets of good old cast iron heads that I'll never use. Like you, I do almost all my own head work.
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I really enjoy it. I love bringing something back that was a worthless hunk of iron.
 
moparraceman said:
i have a set of bare stock [no porting ,no cutting ] X s/b heads i believe came on 68-69 340 motors WHAT ARE THEY WORTH ? also 010-010 steel 340 crank just ground thanks
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Around here the cheapest I've seen on CL or at the swap meets is $400 a set and they needed a full rebuild.
 
I sold a set of X-heads off a running 340 about 5 years ago. They had hardened seats, bronze guides and were a 'bolt-on and go' part. Sold them for $400 with the stamped rocker assemblies and I thought I got a great deal just because of how affordable aftermarket heads have become.
 
moparmarks said:
So who has aluminum heads that are bolt on out of the box? Not Eddys.
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my speedmaster heads are aluminum... 100% built from speedmaster... have some casting flaws... but are 100% bolted on right out of the box...

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66fs said:
No, strokers and aluminum heads are. Why else would you throw so much money at them.
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I sortof agree;
my 367 is a fairly tame engine yet goes 93 in Eighth. Who needs to go any faster?
On the street;
If you are replacing pistons, High cylinder pressure is "free" power and economy.
With iron heads; about the highest CCP that you can run without detonation at WOT, is 165psi, and you will need to run 91 or better gas. That's cutting it pretty fine, and if you find your cam is too big, running a smaller one may increase the pressure into the detonation zone, which then might require internal engine modifications.
Whereas with alloy heads, 185psi is a common target , and in my case at least, supports WOT on 87E10. And if you set that engine up for hi-torque, you will not require an overdrive. But if you do install one, then you can decrease your cruise rpm and realize significantly better fuel economy than at some other lower pressure. The higher pressure is not by itself responsible for the fuel economy; rather, it is the lower cruise rpm that the higher pressure supports.
For example; I have found out that my hi-torque 367 pushing 185psi, would pull very well at 65=1600rpm, and got fabulous fuel-economy while doing it; rivaling any modern-era injected 4-cylinder Compact Utility Vehicle, and many sedans also. Yet that 223*cam easily went 106 in the Quarter.
Because of the pressure/economy thing, I'd have to be pretty broke to go back to iron heads. But if I would, it would Not be with a big hydraulic cam. I'll be trying a solid-lifter cam at say 170 psi, and attempting to tune that for 87E10............ cuz that's the kind of guy I am.
I did the math once as to how much money my Eddies might have saved me in hiway .gas savings. Because I was driving over 6000 miles every summer in those days, the break-even point, to worked iron heads, was only about two or three summers.
 
If I were building something with 340+ cubes, that was going to be noticeably more power than stock, and I had to use factory iron heads....... and all of the candidate heads were in equal condition....... my preference would be X heads.
But, I wouldn’t pay a big premium for them.

They’re generally worth more to the resto guys than the typical performance enthusiast.

My old 340 had reworked 587 heads on it, and made 475hp with them using a SFT cam.
 
mopowers said:
I sold a set of X-heads off a running 340 about 5 years ago. They had hardened seats, bronze guides and were a 'bolt-on and go' part. Sold them for $400 with the stamped rocker assemblies and I thought I got a great deal just because of how affordable aftermarket heads have become.
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I paid 400 for mine, ready to run.
These days I'd only buy them bare,mag checked and with no sunken seats or mangling of any kind.
The set I have now ..I have 11/32 guides,exh seats and some econo elgin pro stock stainless valves in them and ported to [email protected]/199exh w/67.5cc chambers w/1.437 dbl's@135-140 seat 305/[email protected] or .55
 
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