i must be completely missing something ?!?

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D-50394 said:
Yes I have done that since day one. I am always finding something that needs upgraded. Just always hope it is the last time for that part. The faster you go the more stuff breaks.
When I first started racing my Demon I kept upgrading parts and ended up with almost enough parts to Build my 69 Valiant.
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no that's what a swap meet is for! I was only down $50 after the last swap meet after selling enough parts to damn near build another car. slicks for 80 bucks and eight and three quarter housing for $50:D
 
If the bars are bending, loose them they aren't doing you much good.

Un clamp the rear segments of your springs, for a CHEEP down and dirty stiffener for the front segment, use uni-strut, kindorf, or angle iron. You can use hose clamps to hold it in place, readjust your pinion snubber if it needs it.
 
how high you launch at?? what RPM? what kind of clutch?? do you power shift trans??
that cam is good for 6700 RPM on shift. in your case its a stroker , prob more like 6200 to 6400 ?? driving does affect E.T. also launch RPM has greatest affect on 60 ft times. takes work to make a stick car fast. comes down to chassis , shifting, RPM launch. do you use a two step on launch? or free wind it? that also affects the E.T. just food for thought.
 
First two things I would do is ditch the traction bars, and get a different shifter handle. JMHO, I could never really bang gears with a pistol grip. I prefer a t-handle. Next thing I'd do is get some heads with at least 2.02 intake valves. Those 1.88 intakes were a compromise on a 340, you've got a 410. Good luck!
 
perfacar said:
how high you launch at?? what RPM? what kind of clutch?? do you power shift trans??
that cam is good for 6700 RPM on shift. in your case its a stroker , prob more like 6200 to 6400 ?? driving does affect E.T. also launch RPM has greatest affect on 60 ft times. takes work to make a stick car fast. comes down to chassis , shifting, RPM launch. do you use a two step on launch? or free wind it? that also affects the E.T. just food for thought.
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I'm not sure what RPM my lunch at I think it's around three grand or a little more. My clutch is a stock heavy duty clutch. I don't think I power shift I just shift as fast as I can. I'm still pretty much a beginner but trying the best I can.
 
70Swinger440 said:
First two things I would do is ditch the traction bars, and get a different shifter handle. JMHO, I could never really bang gears with a pistol grip. I prefer a t-handle. Next thing I'd do is get some heads with at least 2.02 intake valves. Those 1.88 intakes were a compromise on a 340, you've got a 410. Good luck!
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I'm ditching the traction bars as soon as I can get some time. I spent most of this last week putting in a new electric water pump. I have a different shifter, I just like the pistol grip (cool factor). kind of like the dual quads, they don't make the car go faster but its just something I want. lord knows there will be always someone better than me. I was thinking about better heads this next winter, this last winter I kind of blew all my money on the bottom end.
 
thank you for everyone's positive comments on this thread! I'm taking them all into consideration as I try to improve, and get time to do so! Lol
 
You should look at reinforcing the pinion snubber plate on the floor pan. I had a friend who had a 73 Cuda years ago and his pounded the floor pan until it tore a hole in it. He ended up making a cross member that went from frame rail to frame rail out of 1/4" steel to support a 1/4" steel snubber plate right above the snubber. It fixed the problem.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You should look at reinforcing the pinion snubber plate on the floor pan. I had a friend who had a 73 Cuda years ago and his pounded the floor pan until it tore a hole in it. He ended up making a cross member that went from frame rail to frame rail out of 1/4" steel to support a 1/4" steel snubber plate right above the snubber. It fixed the problem.
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Triple R !!!! where have you been? I've been missing you questioning my stupidity!!
I'll try that, it sounds like something I can do with my cheap Harbor Freight welder and a piece of metal. I think I like to try that sandwich in my leaf springs in front of the axel thing too? obviously I need work on my chassis setup. Through me some cheap tricks, I'm running out of budget this year. I've got to spend a bunch of money on a wedding marrying the gal that owns the 66 Barracuda in the garage. obviously she's a girl after my own heart!
 
I don't question your stupidity. I have grown used to it.

What springs do you have? You should have the 002 and 003 Super Stock springs. If you do, there is zero need for anything other than clamping the front spring segments, un clamping the rear segments and running the snubber. .....and perhaps reinforcing the snubber plate in some fashion. There are cars that run down deep in the 8s using just that. Possibly quicker.
 
Aaaaaa like the three little slant 6 ones? And the air shocks I originally put in to keep the body of the tires.
aired down to the minimum 25 psi. quite the winning combination ??? Time and money- time and money.
I'll keep setin um up and you knock um down!
 
OK, you NEED the 002 and 003 springs BAD. They are very reasonable. Get them. Ditch the air shocks. Get the longer MP shocks for the SS springs. That will solve your problem.......well.........then it will be all in the driving. lol
 
No wonder you are not going as fast as you could. Slant six springs and air shocks. I am surprised you're not stuckin the 12s.
 
I've got a list of stuff I'd like ! I've had to take on (for give me) hourly work three days a week, thats how slow my personal business is. So again - time and money, but I'll get there. This last week it was a new water pump ($203) plus gaskets ect.... And yet another fabricating challenge to make yet another aftermarket part work. (I'll shoot a picture of the stock alternator bracket I had to hack up,then had to move the alternator out to the outer pulley so the belt wouldn't hit water pump#-o ) hopefully have time after work to look into why linelock doesn't work AGAIN ! Then go get u haul trailer ($55) for therd of six " hole in the hood" series race on Saturday ($30 fuel for durango to pull, $30 fuel for drag car, $50 to race, $12 for my gal) I'm keeping up, but not getting ahead with time and money .View attachment 20150608_145435.jpg

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Stupid crap like electric water pumps and you're running slant six springs. Figure it out, man. Lots of cars run WAY, WAY faster with belt driven water pumps. The benefit you get from an electric water pump is REMOVED TEN FOLD by not having a proper rear suspension.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Stupid crap like electric water pumps and you're running slant six springs. Figure it out, man. Lots of cars run WAY, WAY faster with belt driven water pumps. The benefit you get from an electric water pump is REMOVED TEN FOLD by not having a proper rear suspension.
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Trying to launch a stroker small block, stick shift car with 6 cylinder leafs, traction bars, and air shocks! The car must launch like a cripple, homeless drunk chasing a dollar bill down the street. And the two hundred dollars spent on the electric water pump would have put you well on the way to having the right springs and shocks.

I know it's old technology, but IMHO, you would not go wrong by picking up a copy of the old Direct Connection Performance book. There is much info to be learned in there. Good Luck!
 
This is by no means a finished product. The old electrical powered water pump gave out, and thats what I've chosen to use so i upgraded. It launches ok for what it is, but just give me a little bit more time and money lol and I'll get there. I am going to get through tomorrow's race and then I have a month and a paycheck before the next race. (Time & money) I PROMISE to get new (or different ) whatever I can afford leaf springs and 4 new race shocks. And hopefully a new carburetor as one is old and crappy and I want a new one. NOW I'M GOING TO HOLD MY BREATH, CROSS MY ARMS, AND STICK MY BOTTOM LIP OUT TIL I GET WHAT I WANT !!!!!!
I WANT- I WANT- I WANT !!!!!!!!! LOL!

If you'd like to get a jump on heckling my stock un-curved distributor and ignition by all means.......

like everything - time & money - I'll get there ......
 
Just realized your using 1.88 intake valves no wonder your not going fast that stroker wants to breath your choking it,get some real heads ditch the traction bars and air shocks...
 
crackedback said:
When you put an 11.20 or better engine in a 13 second chassis, you get what you get.............There is a reason some of us don't respond anymore. If you can't guess what that reason is, I can't help you. :).......................
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Hit the nail right on the head.

J par, there are many things wrong with your combo (as I have said in the past). I think you can figure this out on your own if you are willing to do a little research/work (and quite frankly, I don't feel like spelling it out for you, only to have you ignore everything I said and keep complaining that your car is slow). Start checking out combo's of other cars (chassis/engine/trans/tires/etc.), see what works and what doesn't.

Here's a hint, compare my car and yours...you should be able to see why your car is over a second slower even though it is over 300 lbs lighter than mine. Good luck.
 
flyfish said:
Hit the nail right on the head.

J par, there are many things wrong with your combo (as I have said in the past). I think you can figure this out on your own if you are willing to do a little research/work (and quite frankly, I don't feel like spelling it out for you, only to have you ignore everything I said and keep complaining that your car is slow). Start checking out combo's of other cars (chassis/engine/trans/tires/etc.), see what works and what doesn't.

Here's a hint, compare my car and yours...you should be able to see why your car is over a second slower even though it is over 300 lbs lighter than mine. Good luck.
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I'm sure going to have to look through this thread and see where I was complaining about my car being too slow? I thought its met my expectations or exceeded them so far for what I have and how far I've gone. maybe when you started drag racing you knew everything right out of the gate and that's great. maybe I'll see your name next to Shirley Muldowney in the drag racing Hall of Fame one day, but until then this beginner's going to keep trying to do the best and gather as much Intel is possible from people who like to help. and you may say we tell you but you don't listen? but on the other hand I can't just run out and start spending money and time the minute somebody says to do something I have a job and I have a budget.
 
Got news for ya' a 410 stroker in a 2730 lb car running 11.88 is slowwwwwwwww..i mean my "stock stroke 360 in my 3450 lb duster has been 11.79..you need to pay attention to some of the advice given to you here you asked for it,some of the people here actually DO know what they're/we are talking about...
 
Stuff happens even with an almost stock 318. The history of some parts makes a big difference though... I found out later this drive shaft came from a car that had burned. Though not showing it externally the last time I romped on it was too much...
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YOU HAVE SLANT 6 REAR LEAF SPRING!!!! WOW!

You need to clamp the front segment down NOW. And as i have told you previously, it dirt cheap to do!

You had better keep, the traction bars until you clamp it.........Its the only thing from making that front segment look like a S #-o
 
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