LED signal light issues.

-
Clelan

Clelan

Inferno Red Duster
FABO Gold Member
Joined
May 11, 2006
Messages
2,549
Reaction score
3,593
Location
Martensville Sask. Can.
In an effort to reduce the load on the under dash electrical system and reduce the likelihood of burning my car to the ground, I have attempted to change over to LED Tail lights on my 74 Duster. I did an amp meter bypass which was simplified by the fact that my car came with the 60 amp alternator from factory (Factory AC car). On the 60 amp alternator equipped cars the alternator wiring did not go through the bulkhead as it did on most cars. I also fire the headlights with relays controlled by the wiring that used to supply the headlights themselves. I know this is not new or groundbreaking, I just wanted to provide some history.

I was recently proving out all my wiring and I found that I did not have signal lights. I had brake lights, park lights, hazard lights but no signal lights. I switched the flasher with the proven working flasher in the hazard lights and it did the same thing. After messing around a bit, I noticed that when I checked for voltage at the signal light switch with my test light, the signal light would work properly while the test light was part of the load. I am assuming that the flasher needed the additional load of the test light in order to operate.

After extensive research (Mostly stalking Dan Stearn’s posts on this site) and a couple emails back and forth with Mr Stearn, the following is the list of parts I chose to use. With these parts I am very happy with the added brightness of all the lights.

  • NOVITA EL12 FLASHER (for both signal and hazard flashers)

  • PHILLIPS 1157 LED STOP/TAIL (red) brake lights

  • PHILLIPS 1156 LED (P21) back up lights

  • PHILLIPS 1157 LED STOP/TAIL (for front signal lights)

  • PHILLIPS 194 LED (for side marker lights)
Does anyone have any idea what I can do to make this work? I don’t like the idea of adding unnecessary load which I am sure will solve my issue. Also I tried it with standard incandescent bulbs in the front signal lights and this fixes it but also defeats the point of why I was doing this whole upgrade in the first place. SLANTSIXDAN, I hope you will chime in on this.


Cley
 
I seem to recall use of a special flasher, but Dan will know for sure. Maybe try PMing him and then post the results?
 
89on35s said:
In an effort to reduce the load on the under dash electrical system and reduce the likelihood of burning my car to the ground, I have attempted to change over to LED Tail lights on my 74 Duster. I did an amp meter bypass which was simplified by the fact that my car came with the 60 amp alternator from factory (Factory AC car). On the 60 amp alternator equipped cars the alternator wiring did not go through the bulkhead as it did on most cars. I also fire the headlights with relays controlled by the wiring that used to supply the headlights themselves. I know this is not new or groundbreaking, I just wanted to provide some history.

I was recently proving out all my wiring and I found that I did not have signal lights. I had brake lights, park lights, hazard lights but no signal lights. I switched the flasher with the proven working flasher in the hazard lights and it did the same thing. After messing around a bit, I noticed that when I checked for voltage at the signal light switch with my test light, the signal light would work properly while the test light was part of the load. I am assuming that the flasher needed the additional load of the test light in order to operate.

After extensive research (Mostly stalking Dan Stearn’s posts on this site) and a couple emails back and forth with Mr Stearn, the following is the list of parts I chose to use. With these parts I am very happy with the added brightness of all the lights.

  • NOVITA EL12 FLASHER (for both signal and hazard flashers)

  • PHILLIPS 1157 LED STOP/TAIL (red) brake lights

  • PHILLIPS 1156 LED (P21) back up lights

  • PHILLIPS 1157 LED STOP/TAIL (for front signal lights)

  • PHILLIPS 194 LED (for side marker lights)
Does anyone have any idea what I can do to make this work? I don’t like the idea of adding unnecessary load which I am sure will solve my issue. Also I tried it with standard incandescent bulbs in the front signal lights and this fixes it but also defeats the point of why I was doing this whole upgrade in the first place. SLANTSIXDAN, I hope you will chime in on this.


Cley
Click to expand...


I used a LED compatible flasher when I had the red LED brake/tail lights and they would flash normally. When I added the front Amber LED's to the car, it would no longer blink. I spliced in a purpose built load simulator up front near the parking lights. This was available from the same place I bought my LED's, and they work flawlessly now. I also changed out the side marker lights on my '68. The cars lights are significantly brighter now, and the swap to LED's is something I highly recommend.
 
Yep, that's the solution.
The mechanical flasher rquires the amp load of the bulbs to make the bimetal heat up enough to open the contacts.
The electronic flasher is an electronically opened and closed switch and does not rely on a load to do it.
 
What I have been reading and hearing and now have EXPERIENCED is LED lights just don't work on everything.

I tried to replace all of the smaller exterior bulbs on my truck with LEDs. First, I found some wires in the rear had been reversed. No problem with incandescent bulbs. But LEDs are diodes and the polarity has to be correct.

Ok. So going by both a test light AND wiring diagram, I straightened all that out. Still a no go on my turn signals and everything now is dead right. So the old school lights went back in. Piss on LEDs.
 
Hey got a question. I replaced all my incandescent (from dash and interior to brake and side markers) to LED and put in the LED canisters for turn and hazard. All work fine but the front turn. When headlights are off the front work fine, when headlights are on front wont flash but back do. There is no "light out" indication on dash or "hyperflashing". Will load resistors work for the front? In other words with all LED but front turn lights work when headlights are on. It almost seems like the flash voltage is less with headlights on. Do I need to add a relay in for the turn signals to get them to work with LED's?
 
If I'm not mistaken you need an electronic flasher to operate LEDs . They don't pull enough current for old style flashers to operate. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
Yote
 
Yes, they are electronic. Somebody in one of the other threads recommended and does clear up the issues with dash turn lights and tail lights but not the front turn.
 
89on35s said:
I did an amp meter bypass which was simplified by the fact that my car came with the 60 amp alternator from factory (Factory AC car). On the 60 amp alternator equipped cars the alternator wiring did not go through the bulkhead as it did on most cars.
Cley
Click to expand...

This was known as "taxi fleet police" wiring and you MAY not have needed to do ANYTHING with the ammeter wiring
 
What I don't understand is where people got the idea that 4 of #1157 bulbs are a massive electrical load under the dash.
 
The "taxi fleet police" still uses the ammeter with all the charge current going through it. I know the main issue is the bulkhead, but I hate the idea of all that amp load routing behind the dash. I suppose I have wasted more time on less in many aspects of my project.

For me it's not so much changing to LED to reduce load because my ammeter bypass got the charging current away from the interior of the car. It's more for never having to replace a bulb again as long as I own the car. Again, no big deal but when I get something in my head, sometimes I have to see it through.

Cley
 
RedFish said:
What I don't understand is where people got the idea that 4 of #1157 bulbs are a massive electrical load under the dash.
Click to expand...

Well 4 1157's are not but those along with all the dash lights, headlights, tail lights, wipers, heater, stereo and whatever else is.
That's part of why at idle headlights dim, wipers slow, signals slow, and heater blower slows and CCR plays Born on the Bayou in a different key.
Well, just kidding about that last part. :D
After swapping markers, signals, tail, brake, interior and cluster all over to LED that doesn't happen any more.
Plus you can accidentally leave your park lights or emergency flashers on for 3 days without killing the battery. :D
 
89on35s said:
In an effort to reduce the load on the under dash electrical system and reduce the likelihood of burning my car to the ground, I have attempted to change over to LED Tail lights on my 74 Duster. I did an amp meter bypass which was simplified by the fact that my car came with the 60 amp alternator from factory (Factory AC car). On the 60 amp alternator equipped cars the alternator wiring did not go through the bulkhead as it did on most cars. I also fire the headlights with relays controlled by the wiring that used to supply the headlights themselves. I know this is not new or groundbreaking, I just wanted to provide some history.

I was recently proving out all my wiring and I found that I did not have signal lights. I had brake lights, park lights, hazard lights but no signal lights. I switched the flasher with the proven working flasher in the hazard lights and it did the same thing. After messing around a bit, I noticed that when I checked for voltage at the signal light switch with my test light, the signal light would work properly while the test light was part of the load. I am assuming that the flasher needed the additional load of the test light in order to operate.

After extensive research (Mostly stalking Dan Stearn’s posts on this site) and a couple emails back and forth with Mr Stearn, the following is the list of parts I chose to use. With these parts I am very happy with the added brightness of all the lights.

  • NOVITA EL12 FLASHER (for both signal and hazard flashers)

  • PHILLIPS 1157 LED STOP/TAIL (red) brake lights

  • PHILLIPS 1156 LED (P21) back up lights

  • PHILLIPS 1157 LED STOP/TAIL (for front signal lights)

  • PHILLIPS 194 LED (for side marker lights)
Does anyone have any idea what I can do to make this work? I don’t like the idea of adding unnecessary load which I am sure will solve my issue. Also I tried it with standard incandescent bulbs in the front signal lights and this fixes it but also defeats the point of why I was doing this whole upgrade in the first place. SLANTSIXDAN, I hope you will chime in on this.


Cley
Click to expand...
 
i am not sure if this has been fixed because i do not want to read all post but i installed led flashers/blinkers when i ordered mine they came with load resistors that actually short between positive a negative on the blinker wires. google led lights with load resistors. the problem is led lights dont draw enough current to trigger your flasher correctly.
 
RustyRatRod said:
What I have been reading and hearing and now have EXPERIENCED is LED lights just don't work on everything.

I tried to replace all of the smaller exterior bulbs on my truck with LEDs. First, I found some wires in the rear had been reversed. No problem with incandescent bulbs. But LEDs are diodes and the polarity has to be correct.

Ok. So going by both a test light AND wiring diagram, I straightened all that out. Still a no go on my turn signals and everything now is dead right. So the old school lights went back in. Piss on LEDs.
Click to expand...
4 PCS 50W Load Resistor 6 ohm Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blinker ebay special
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top