8 3/4 Save or trash???

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69fstbkcuda

69fstbkcuda

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Trying to salvage an A-body 8 3/4. Everything is pretty solid except for the 2 pin holes I found while wire brushing. Is this repairable?

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I would lay a 1/16" steel plate on the inside (or outside) heat it and hammer it into the shape of the dome and weld it in. Then undercoat the outside to prevent any future rust!! It should last another 40 years.

treblig
 
Agreed. I don't know how much room you have on the inside but that is where I would try and patch it for cosmetics. Then on the outside, use JB weld as a body filler, smooth it out and when dried, paint it up.
 
Treblig said:
I would lay a 1/16" steel plate on the inside (or outside) heat it and hammer it into the shape of the dome and weld it in. Then undercoat the outside to prevent any future rust!! It should last another 40 years.

treblig
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thanks I really don't wanna eat $400. I'm willing to try anything lol.
 
If you can heat up a piece of metal (1/6" plate), you can hammer it against the outside of the dome to get the shape then finish it on the inside (which should be close enough). It doesn't have to fit perfect but all the edges should be making contact to get a good weld. Also, be sure to remove every bit of corrosion so that you get a good solid weld!!
There's nothing that can't be done but some things take a little longer (think Pyramids).
treblig
 
Depending on how handy you are with a welder, I would drill the holes open until you find solid metal, and then just stitch them closed. Simplest repair possible
 
whitepunkonnitro said:
Depending on how handy you are with a welder, I would drill the holes open until you find solid metal, and then just stitch them closed. Simplest repair possible
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I would agree except that I've repaired many corroded items and found that the corrosion is usually distributed around the area where you find a hole. So even if you open it up there will usually be section of very thin metal all around the hole making it difficult to get a good weld. For this reason I always try and put my weld (metal plate) as far from the hole as possible....that said, if the surrounding metal is solid then spot welding is the best course of action!!

treblig
 
Every one of those pits is suspect, inside n' out.

Is it worth risking burning up the axles and diff if they open up on a long haul and go unnoticed? i.e. a torsen diff with new gears and custom axles...I wouldn't risk it.

2-series gears on an open diff with salvage yard parts, spot weld it and run. A heavy epoxy overcoating wouldn't hurt but DO NOT coat the inside!

Heat it up and rescrub it. Be surprised what opens up.
 
I have a 742 case, open 3.55 and some free axles... I'm gonna see where some welding and JB Weld gets me. I'll post some pics when I get finished. Thanks for the feedback.
 
I would agree that if the housing rusted trough, how thin is the rest and will it survive? Might really consider getting a new housing! I would be concerned adding a patch inside.
 
It won't Solder worth a damn.

But it braze quite nicely. That's a solution I hadn't thought of before. I'd trust that more than jb weld. With a good experienced welder, they could braze the entire pitted surface and it would probably be pretty smooth too.

And the gold look would be tits under there
 
jos51700 said:
It won't Solder worth a damn.

But it braze quite nicely. That's a solution I hadn't thought of before. I'd trust that more than jb weld. With a good experienced welder, they could braze the entire pitted surface and it would probably be pretty smooth too.

And the gold look would be tits under there
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Yeah I brazed a leaker up this one time. And then it cracked beside the braze, or ahead or in a new spot,or where-ever;and I had to go through the whole procedure again. Only to see new cracks appear. After about, IDK 4 or 5 tries, I more or less won.I used up a lot of rod tho. I shoulda hired a pro the first time, I guess,lol.
Swat I got fer being a cheepazz.
But I still have that rear under an 84 D-100.
 
I would get it sand blasted first. You might find more pin holes after blasting. i have all my 8 3/4s blasted before i do anything to them. Makes the paint stick better, and it looks good also.
barracudadave67
 
Here's what i would do:
Buy a bent or undesirable 8 3/4 housing with a good outer round pan.
Cut the good pan out of it bigger than the factory welds.
Trim (grind) it to the shape it was before the factory welded it on.
Clamp your A-Body housing to a metal table so it won't move or use a mandrel through the axle tubes.
Remove the bad area of the pan just before the weld starts.
Clean up your housing (grind smooth)
Weld new salvaged pan on.
Check axle tube alignment and straighten in press if necessary.
Clean housing and paint it.

I think this is the only way to do it and make it look factory..........
 
Well here's the progress so far... Weld grind weld grind weld grind weld grind... It's turned more into an experiment than anything. I'll be amazed if it actually works. If it doesn't work at least I can keep someone from making the same mistake.

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Did you blast it first?

That looks like it was stored with no center with the pan down in the great outdoors!
 
1969383S said:
Did you blast it first?

That looks like it was stored with no center with the pan down in the great outdoors!
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Definitely stored where it had water or something laying in it for awhile... It was a 2.5 hour away craigslist bought site unseen and had a friend pick it up... Got it put to me lol

and I should have had it blasted but... There would have been nothing left of it haha. I'll have a good laugh if works
 
Pour some fluid in it, and let it puddle where you welded it.
Let it sit overnight.
If it holds run it, if not try again.

P.S. I would have fixed it also, and I would add a drain plug now while you have it out.
 
sireland67 said:
Pour some fluid in it, and let it puddle where you welded it.
Let it sit overnight.
If it holds run it, if not try again.

P.S. I would have fixed it also, and I would add a drain plug now while you have it out.
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A drain plug would be handy.
 
I've used fiberglass resin on inside with no issues.well prepped.
Just gotta hold oil splash.

D.
 
I Hope it holds. I have had the car since I was 12. Got married had kids and it's set in the garage for 10 years... My dad put a stinking 8 1/4 with a 2.76 turd... I've never got to do a burn out in it lol...I'm 31 now. I plan on smoking the tires off as soon as I get her back on the road. Tear it up and fix it again!
 
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