Cloyes double roller after 1K

[bschubarg]

already stretched after 1K miles....what should I do.... hmmm

 

[toolmanmike]

A tensioner works.

 

[TrailBeast]

And maybe even take a good look at the oiling supply for it.
Drip plate?
Drilled cam plate bolt?
Oil slinger?

 

[Bad Sport]

And maybe even take a good look at the oiling supply for it.

Yeah, it looks a tad dry.

 

[pishta]

just get a tensioner and forget about it. Chains wear, but cogs wear too.

 

[bschubarg]

Fixed...

 

[pishta]

wow, that was fast! looks nice....

scribe a line where the spring sits and you can monitor its 'progression'

My Mazda MA engine (2.0, timing chain about 3 feet long!) uses a similar nylon slipper tensioner (spring AND ratchet action) and there is talk about the roller chains eating these up on a Mopar. Well, I took the MA's out with 240,000 miles on it, and the nylon IS eaten but only 2 grooves (3 with a true roller) to the depth of the link walls. The rollers end up contacting the nylon and stop any more erosion, so the limited amount of nylon introduced in the oil is probably not an issue as its going to be caught by any filter. A silent chain would probably wear the slipper less as it has a flatter contact face. If your anal about this, you could probably pre-file out these grooves to keep any perceived nylon out of your oil. I like it.

 

[toolmanmike]

I put one on my 273.

 

[318willrun]

Fixed...

View attachment 1715126280

need to get it some oil....
you can leave the bolt out on the passenger side so it can get oil

 

[mbaird]

Nissan V6s used a chain and would eat the guide block in about 60k miles then start eating the case. Much longer chain then what we use.....
Of course Nissan stepped right up and warrantied them all....
NOT!

 

[mbaird]

I liked the idea of soaking a new chain before install. Another member posted that in another thread a few weeks ago.
It never occured to me...

 

[72Dart6pack]

Put one on my 408

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

already stretched after 1K miles....what should I do.... hmmm

View attachment 1715126264

I used those for years, timing marks bouncin all over...lol...figured out why!

Stop buying cloyes and go get one of the following brands billet sets instead...
Jp performance
Mancini racing

Those are the only 2 brands i have personally used time and time again, tore down and found to not stretch so much. They all do to some extent, good ones stretch less.
I have no experience using the summit or jegs brand chain sets, but the ones i have mentioned i have used for about 17 yrs.
All other brands seem stretch twice as much.

 

[BigBlockMopar]

A tensioner only hides the chain slop. It doesn't correct the wear and thus the cam will still retard.

 

[72Dart6pack]

Stretch is fact of life on a timing chain. Gear drive or belt drive. It's all going to move around. Are we looking for that .00001 % of a HP increase?

 

[nm9stheham]

Is this a high lift cam with heavy springs?

 

[Ironmike]

Looks to me like it's getting NO oil. That drip tab is more important than you think. So is the hole in the cam plate retainer bolt.

 

[perfacar]

we discovered long time ago, prelube is important. as most setups have min lube. that's why we soak them in a can of oil as assemble short block. most our stuff is racing, after 4 seasons 400 runs cam was 1 degree retarded, chain was still snug. that's with lots of spring pressure and RPM. for a street engine I would still prelube it. roller chains are the worst for stretching, link belt chains do not seem to stretch as bad. we prelube those also. also, the slinger ring needs to be there as the oil leaks from the front main , it gets slung onto the chain.

 

[krazykuda]

already stretched after 1K miles....what should I do.... hmmm

View attachment 1715126264

read through this thread to see how to make sure it's getting enough oil to the timing chain...

How to Assemble the Front of a Small Block

 

[nm9stheham]

That IS a lot of slack for 1000 miles....I would expect 3, maybe 4, degrees of cam retard with that much slack. (Yes I have made measurements on that before...) The tensioner does not fix that as noted before. That amount of retard is definitely gonna show up in the low- and mid-RPM ranges.

At least move the multi-keyway timing sprocket to correct that.. but I'd replace that chain if the engine is of any value and get the cam timing back to where it should be.

 

[nm9stheham]

we discovered long time ago, prelube is important. as most setups have min lube. that's why we soak them in a can of oil as assemble short block. most our stuff is racing, after 4 seasons 400 runs cam was 1 degree retarded, chain was still snug. that's with lots of spring pressure and RPM. for a street engine I would still prelube it. roller chains are the worst for stretching, link belt chains do not seem to stretch as bad. we prelube those also. also, the slinger ring needs to be there as the oil leaks from the front main , it gets slung onto the chain.

Very good data and info... many thanks!

 

[Max1196]

Post #13 and post #18 , do this and use this. Here's the pa

rt #.

 

[prorac1]

read through this thread to see how to make sure it's getting enough oil to the timing chain...

How to Assemble the Front of a Small Block

Thank you for posting this krazykuda. It's a big help for assembling the front of our engine. Thanks a bunch.

 

[perfacar]

it doesn't matter who made it, still needs to be prelubed!!!! dry doesn't work!!! we found some parts from down under are not as good as parts here in usa.

 

[yellow rose]

That's why I drill a small hole in the cam plate that opens into the passenger side oil gallery. Then it gets oil.

As perfacar says, pre lubing the chain is a must.

This is why I use gear drives.