W2 Stroker comin together!

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Ether where the extreme is a suspect and ether difficulty in cooling is a suspect or problem and/or your going to add extra coolent removal for superior head cooling comes into play.

The best spot to take water out of the head is the center where the two exhaust ports are together.
Post 21, picture #2 has a max effort coolent removal modification on the W9 heads in the picture.

Also seen in that shot is a modified thermostat housing. There, the coolent hoses attach under the thermostat for a quick exit out of the engine into the radiator. It looks like a mass exodus map.

On engines with lesser heads than the W7-8-9 series, the below thermostat adapter can be used. This one from Joes racing products has 3 ports that are the same and one slightly smaller where my MP mechanical temp gauge is hooked up.

On this, you can run 2 coolent lines to it and plug one up or combine 2 lines into one and use all 3 available.

Plumbing water into the bottom middle of the block introduces cool water into the center of the hottest spot in the block and up to the hottest part of the head, the center.

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mbaird said:
Yes... Shane helped me with the lifters and got me a great deal. I ordered the offset ones first then changed my mind and Shane was gracious enought to exchange them.

No pics of oil mods... just drilled out the galleys... no tubes and the lifters seem not to leak when I primed it.
Click to expand...
Can you clarify your oiling mods here. You said just drilled out the galleys, but no tubes. Did you tube the galley after you drilled it.
 
Duane said:
Can you clarify your oiling mods here. You said just drilled out the galleys, but no tubes. Did you tube the galley after you drilled it.
Click to expand...

I just opened up all the galleys. I did not tube the lifter feeds because the Crower lifters I am running are HIPPO and have pushrod oiling.
I do have the drills, reams and peens to do it though.
 
mbaird said:
Yes... Shane helped me with the lifters and got me a great deal. I ordered the offset ones first then changed my mind and Shane was gracious enought to exchange them.

No pics of oil mods... just drilled out the galleys... no tubes and the lifters seem not to leak when I primed it.
Click to expand...
Hope you don,t have low oil pressure with those rollers and no galley tubes.
 
mbaird said:
I just opened up all the galleys. I did not tube the lifter feeds because the Crower lifters I am running are HIPPO and have pushrod oiling.
I do have the drills, reams and peens to do it though.
Click to expand...
Did you block the oil flow up through the deck. W2 not normally run with pushrods oiling.
 
mbaird said:
I just opened up all the galleys. I did not tube the lifter feeds because the Crower lifters I am running are HIPPO and have pushrod oiling.
I do have the drills, reams and peens to do it though.
Click to expand...
I read up on these lifters. They are typical new gen lifters with edm oil feeds directly to the axle wheel and pushrods feeds.
That combined with a .650 lift cam may be trouble. I am running the comp cams version of this same type of lifter. I had my lifter bores bushed. The bushings have a .030 feed hole to restrict flow and keep the oil pressure up. With that big of a cam and the necessary spring pressure to go with it, if you were ever to break a pushrod and the lifter was thrown out of the bore, you will lose all oil pressure. IMHO
Plenty of threads on the board right now of guys running rollers without tubing or bushing the lifter bores and have low oil pressure.
I would hate to see you hurt that new motor. Just an FYI
 
I checked leakage while priming/rotating and dont feel there is excessive leakage.
oil pressure around 50-65 @ 1600 rpm
 
mbaird said:
I checked leakage while priming/rotating and dont feel there is excessive leakage.
oil pressure around 50-65 @ 1600 rpm
Click to expand...
Hot engine oil may be very different. Not to mention oiling your bottom end to handle the w2 horsepower.
 
mbaird said:
slowly but surely my W2 408 for my 69 340 4sp Swinger is seeing some progress !

Scat 4" Forged assembly
76 Motorgome block decked,bored & honed w/plates , line honed , square decked , oil galleys drilled..
W2 Race heads ported by Ryan @ Shady Dell 297cfm@ .650
1.6 HS rocker
Comp springs
Ferrea Valves
Custom solid roller .648
Crower Severe duty Hippo lifters
Smith Bros pushrods
Romac sfi balncer and billet timing chain
NOS Victor ported
TTi 1 7/8 Race headers
3" Exhaust
Mcleod 20# SFI flywheel
Mcleod RXT Dual plate clutch..
Kevko 6 Qt pan and pickup

God I hope it doesnt blow up on dyno !!

View attachment 1715251641 View attachment 1715251642 View attachment 1715251643 View attachment 1715251644
Click to expand...
Any updates?? I cant wait to see results!
 
waiting for him to get another small block done before me. This will be his first small mopar and has to figure out wayer connections etc.. I gave him a flywheel to use . For which he will give me credit towards my session.
I wish this guy was more mopar centric...
 
mbaird said:
waiting for him to get another small block done before me. This will be his first small mopar and has to figure out wayer connections etc.. I gave him a flywheel to use . For which he will give me credit towards my session.
I wish this guy was more mopar centric...
Click to expand...
What kind of timeline are you looking at?
 
Duane said:
I read up on these lifters. They are typical new gen lifters with edm oil feeds directly to the axle wheel and pushrods feeds.
That combined with a .650 lift cam may be trouble. I am running the comp cams version of this same type of lifter. I had my lifter bores bushed. The bushings have a .030 feed hole to restrict flow and keep the oil pressure up. With that big of a cam and the necessary spring pressure to go with it, if you were ever to break a pushrod and the lifter was thrown out of the bore, you will lose all oil pressure. IMHO
Plenty of threads on the board right now of guys running rollers without tubing or bushing the lifter bores and have low oil pressure.
I would hate to see you hurt that new motor. Just an FYI
Click to expand...
I agree with you... though I have had none of the issues guys on here have had.

Ive never had oil psi problems under .600 lift with morrels.
 
he has another customer with one before me that he is waiting for. I think it will be next 3-4 weeks.
 
Im getting a simular builded, hopefully dyno next week on mine. Whats the comp in te engine you build?
 
a bit more than I planned.... somehow I had a brainfart... It will be around 10.5ish... Really good quench thought.
 
Just ordered a Pro Systems carb ... that will put things on hold for a few more weeks.
 
mbaird said:
slowly but surely my W2 408 for my 69 340 4sp Swinger is seeing some progress !

Scat 4" Forged assembly
76 Motorgome block decked,bored & honed w/plates , line honed , square decked , oil galleys drilled..
W2 Race heads ported by Ryan @ Shady Dell 297cfm@ .650
1.6 HS rocker
Comp springs
Ferrea Valves
Custom solid roller .648
Crower Severe duty Hippo lifters
Smith Bros pushrods
Romac sfi balncer and billet timing chain
NOS Victor ported
TTi 1 7/8 Race headers
3" Exhaust
Mcleod 20# SFI flywheel
Mcleod RXT Dual plate clutch..
Kevko 6 Qt pan and pickup

God I hope it doesnt blow up on dyno !!

View attachment 1715251641 View attachment 1715251642 View attachment 1715251643 View attachment 1715251644
Click to expand...
Awesome paint scheme
 
mbaird said:
They custom build them around my engine specs and came back with an 830 cfm.
Click to expand...
That cfm surprises me, on the dyno we ran my Quick Fuel 950, and also a well known dyno carb Quick Fuel 850. There was a significant power difference, even the engine builder was very surprised. I will have to check my dyno sheets again as it's been a while, as I recall it was down 20hp with the 850. Keeping in mind these are box stock Q series Quick Fuel carbs with only jetting changes, not a custom built piece such as you have ordered. I'm sure they know what they are doing.
 
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