W2 Stroker comin together!

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turbodart68 said:
Well the OP has pretty much the same camshaft and everyone is jumping on his *** about how its going to blow up. So I guess its business as usual on the ole internets. I am pretty sure that the OP can draw his own conclusions. He is here sharing his build and everyone is offering their unsolicited advice. And my oil pressure is not probably OK its PERFECT. So maybe the OP should take your advice with a grain of salt.
Click to expand...
Bushing the lifter bores or tubing the block to "safely" run a roller cam is hardly unsolicited. It has been documented in just about every major Mopar small block performance book.
Running them without these mods sucessfully is a combination of the style of lifter and how much lift.
Even the great guitar jones oiling thread that is a sticky on this forum shows how to tube the block. It is not expensive.
If you truly have 1.8 rockers, you are gaining all your lift from the rockers. Your cam lobe lift which is the actual problem is not very high so that is probably why you do not have any problem.
The op has .650 lift cam which is in a range that "possibly could be a problem.
Oil pressure is not the only reason not to run a roller without tubing or bushing. All you need to do is have a pushrod failure at high rpm and your oil pressure will quickly go to zero and ruin your bottom end. Not so if you tube or bush the block.
By all means take this with a grain of salt.
 
turbodart68 said:
Well the OP has pretty much the same camshaft and everyone is jumping on his *** about how its going to blow up. So I guess its business as usual on the ole internets. I am pretty sure that the OP can draw his own conclusions. He is here sharing his build and everyone is offering their unsolicited advice. And my oil pressure is not probably OK its PERFECT. So maybe the OP should take your advice with a grain of salt.
Click to expand...
Change in plans. Another new build begins
 
FIRE IN THE HOLE !

Fired her up today for just a few seconds to do a precheck.
Fired right off and held 60 lbs oil pressure at idle.
 
a little leakage at the stat housing and a small oil drip maybe from filter but I will have to wait for headers to cool off to isolate it.
I have an electrical gremlin in the solenoid wiring... I can start it with a remote starter switch but not the key.... I have power to the cranking lead to the solenoid and have tried 3 different solenoids with same outcome... what simple thing am I missing ?
 
mbaird said:
a little leakage at the stat housing and a small oil drip maybe from filter but I will have to wait for headers to cool off to isolate it.
I have an electrical gremlin in the solenoid wiring... I can start it with a remote starter switch but not the key.... I have power to the cranking lead to the solenoid and have tried 3 different solenoids with same outcome... what simple thing am I missing ?
Click to expand...
On the oil leak, I had difficulties sealing the 90 degree adapter on mine. The leak was where adapter meets block. I removed it and used filter straight on. This solved problem, I'm not sure if you running 90 degree adapter though. I bet it sounds nice!
 
cpearce said:
On the oil leak, I had difficulties sealing the 90 degree adapter on mine. The leak was where adapter meets block. I removed it and used filter straight on. This solved problem, I'm not sure if you running 90 degree adapter though. I bet it sounds nice!
Click to expand...

I know the leak is not coming from the main seal or front pan seal.
I have one of the aluminum adapter plates so no 90 degree .
 
Any updates? I was able to get mine out last night for first outing of the year. It was awesome to get out.
20190402_181431.jpg
 
mbaird said:
a little leakage at the stat housing and a small oil drip maybe from filter but I will have to wait for headers to cool off to isolate it.
I have an electrical gremlin in the solenoid wiring... I can start it with a remote starter switch but not the key.... I have power to the cranking lead to the solenoid and have tried 3 different solenoids with same outcome... what simple thing am I missing ?
Click to expand...
check starter relay reason being mine took a dump had simular issues when I took it apart I found the top contact brass or copper strip had broken off.
 
mbaird said:
I know the leak is not coming from the main seal or front pan seal.
I have one of the aluminum adapter plates so no 90 degree .
Click to expand...
If its one of those Canton ones remove the seal and run the gasket behind it .
 
Got the exhaust system in .
I will have a local exhaust shop perfect the fit once its mobile....
Ran it for a minute or so and am happy with the sound. Idles really nice .
Oil pressure at 65 lbs at idle 80ish at lower rpms...

Slow but sure progress.
 
I'll bet the idle sounds incredibly tough without a crossover tube!

Very nice car, can you post a few pics of it please? What brand rear sway bar is that?
 
Helwig sway bar.... Body work will come last...My brother thinks this is backwards.
 
mbaird said:
Helwig sway bar.... Body work will come last...My brother thinks this is backwards.
Click to expand...
I think I have that same bar in the box, I was too Chicken to drill the holes in the frame rails, LOL. Was it easy to install?
 
Yes... pretty easy. I had the brackets welded onto fhe housing for the Dart...I am building another 8 3/4 for the Barracuda and will do the same on it.
Make sure your pinion angle is correct before welding.
 
Cordoba rear sways fit most MOPARS- a bolt in not as big though
I running the big aftermarket rear bars up the front torsion and sway first if you do not want to swap ends
 
good move
what torsion bars
B and E bodies like 1"+ for today's wide rims and tires
we're talking handling here not drags
for C body the 1.06 or 1.08 from late HD wagons and cop cars work but bigger is better
the late C body bars retrofit backward to at least 67
BVVC of B&E 72-74 as the whole front suspension changes on the Bs
 
Stock 340 Torsion Bars.
This car wont be a canyon carver . I just want to be able to herd it in a general direction when all 600 ponies start to prance.
 
340 bars
IDK if big block bars are bigger on your chassis/yr
aftermarket are
keep track of your bumper stops and if you are beating your suspension to death go bigger
bottoming out hard is really hard on your front end
if not bottoming out then your helwigs big sway bars works well
 
How do sway bars help with bottoming our or not?
 
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